Any small engine gurus out there?

[TopCatGr58]

Hey folks,

Okay, in my Godzilla rebuild thread I posted about how I somehow killed my lawnmower?
It's a 5 y/o Troy Built, basic front wheel drive 21" machine. I was cutting some rather thick moist grass, and the discharge chute was getting occasionally clogged, and so I was just bouncing it by tilting the front end up and back down trying to shake the grass loose, when the mower just started sputtering and then died.

I checked and cleaned the air filter, pulled the plug, it was carboned up a bit, cleaned it and then checked and confirmed spark. Spritzed carb cleaner into the intake as well. Tried to restart it, but it wouldn't. I didn't try taking the top of the mower off. Now that I think of it, wondering if the shaking could have caused a fuel line to come loose....but there wasn't any fuel seen around the engine/fuel tank???

Could I have damaged something on the inside of the motor bouncing it while it was running?? Any suggestions, ideas on what to check?

Due to the time constraints of having to get the lawn mowed and such, I went and purchased a new replacement unit. But would still like to find out if the old machine is a goner, or if it can be fixed relatively cheaply/easily??

T.C.

[rover]

mower

Most likely partially or completely sheared the aluminum key that locates the flywheel. This is part of the magneto, and the key locates the timing. If it moves a bit, the ignition will be out of time. Get a puller and remove the flywheel and check the key. It is aluminum, meant to shear if the blade stops too suddenly. If sheared, replace with aluminum only.

[rover]

flywheel

After removing the top cover and the starter rewind ratchet, you should see two or three tapped holes in the top of the flywheel an inch or two out from the center. Remove the big nut holding the flywheel on and use a steering wheel puller or similar. That is what the threaded holes are for. Put the correct size and thread bolts in thru the puller, tighten the puller and give a sharp rap with a hammer, and the flywheel should pop off, it is on a tapered shaft. The key is about 1/8 or 3/16 square or a half moon key. Only use aluminum, like the original.

[Gmac]

That was my first thought also

No, there is nothing internal you could have damaged by slamming the deck except for the front wheels. I'd check them just GP.

The fuel system is a gravity feed most likely and gas would leak everywhere if you somehow knocked the line off either the tank side or carb inlet. They use a diaphragm pump instead of a carb bowl to regulate fuel flow but it's pretty much immune to inertia because its so small and light.

Shearing the flywheel key was my first thought too.
Easy fast fix and a dollar will get you two of them at a small engine repair shop.

[ViperRon]

TC My first thought was also the keyway under the flywheel but on recent models of lawn mowers they have put so many safety features on them it may be one of them. My girl friends mother had a Troybuilt ridding lawn mower and it had several interlocks on it and without reading the manual I'd never have known it had tilt interlock that had stuck. You may check the interlocks like the one coming from handle because the cable will rust or break and it will fail.

[webbcraft2150]

Clearly a case of using the wrong oil



Check the blade holder attached to the crankshaft. My mower crapped out on me one day and had similar issues. Found the blade adapter had cracked and the blade would freewheel when I tried to start it. Pulled it off and tried to start it without the blade on it, no joy. Got a new adapter, reattached the blade and it fired off. Flywheel key could be the problem to.

[Schming]

TC My first thought was also the keyway under the flywheel but on recent models of lawn mowers they have put so many safety features on them it may be one of them. My girl friends mother had a Troybuilt ridding lawn mower and it had several interlocks on it and without reading the manual I'd never have known it had tilt interlock that had stuck. You may check the interlocks like the one coming from handle because the cable will rust or break and it will fail.

This ^ is my bet especially the cable brake as it also doubles as the kill switch.

Just happened to mine

[Barbarosa]

If it’s still inop I might be able to help you out. Taught small engines at Vo Tech. Need the type and model # of the motor.