Paint - enamel or laquer?

[motoman]

To be more clear...my local auto body supply uses the same commercial grade paint in their rattle cans. They whip them up upon request. Goes on same as a sprayer (so long as you don't get any splatter when the nozzle clogs...HATE that!). Not sure all places do this.

Same here, as majority of automotive paint ses/suppliers do. Peturers color when I did sidecovers some 9yrs. and perfectly matched original color.......no runs, drips or errors. Defy anyone to find they've been repainted.

[dbeardslee]

I'd talk to the counter guys where you buy your supplies.
If it's sealed correctly, should be ok. Without sealing, the paint will work it's way back to the metal.
If it has enamel, and you don't seal it, and apply lacquer, you won't believe what might happen. Those two types of paints refuse to coexist, regardless of age.

The tank I'm getting ready to go to work on has already been repainted. No telling what they used. I don't have it in my hot little hands yet since it's in transit after an ebay purchase. I've got another one out in the mancave, but I have to do some work on the metal where the trim ring bolts on before I can paint that one. And that one looks like it's been painted several times. And then there's the one that's on Betsy, but the inside of that one is pretty bad, and it's been lined. It would be the easiest of the three since it's already in primer, but I don't want to spend the time on it since the inside is questionable. But none of them have the factory paint on them.

[XJOK2PLAY]

I'd talk to the counter guys where you buy your supplies.
If it's sealed correctly, should be ok. Without sealing, the paint will work it's way back to the metal.
If it has enamel, and you don't seal it, and apply lacquer, you won't believe what might happen. Those two types of paints refuse to coexist, regardless of age.

[dbeardslee]

Not to advocate lacquer, but I can report neither of my lacquer projects had any compatibility issues over the factory paint.

I'm not doubting anybody, but I have a hard time believing anything would react with 35 year old paint. The solvents have long since dried out of it. New paint is a different story.

[Radioguylogs]

Not to advocate lacquer, but I can report neither of my lacquer projects had any compatibility issues over the factory paint.

[BA80]

Enamel is what is used OEM. If you spray lacquer over it it'll bubble. I use just rattle can enamel with the 2K over it and it works great.

Don't skip any steps though. Lightly sand between coats and when you put the 2K on, put it on thick because I don't care what you do it'll orange peel and you'll have to do a lot of wet sanding and keep graduating to a finer grit to get a good finish.

I think I ended up with 4000 grit then GOOD rubbing compound to get a glossy finish.

[dbeardslee]

I'm not usually a fan of brown, but that looks dynamite on that bike. I checked House of Kolor's website, and I don't see any aerosol products. But I did find a website called coastalairbrush.com that says they can put House of Kolor paints in aerosol cans. Might be an option...

[Bikes]

They actually make an additive to repel bugs.....really......
As far as modern urethanes..the most user friendly I have used is House of Kolor....sprays, flows and flashes nicely and the clear is very hard and polishes up like glass.....i think you can get it in rattle cans....check on line....
I did this in HOK Kandy Root Beer with four coats of clear......

[dbeardslee]

If lacquer is easier, maybe that's what I should be using. Especially given the back yard painting and the red color. I don't know if it's just my imagination or if red does actually draw bugs. The quick flash time might be better for that too. Last time I managed to keep the bugs out 'till the last coat, and one landed right smack in the middle of the tank. I picked it out, and it wasn't very noticeable, but I always knew where it landed.

[Radioguylogs]

I used lacquer on my XS11 an one of my XS750s.

Like Bob said, it's easy to use, and so forgivable- you can always stop and sand a mistake, and go on.

You can polish the ugly finish perfectly. I used to start wet sanding with 600 grit sandpaper, but I have since learned I can go straight to 2000 grit and save the effort polishing.

I use a $20 Harbor Freight paint gun- nothing special.

I've kept the gas off it the paint SO FAR, so it's been OK only because I have been careful.

I want to learn Urethane, but have worried about the health considerations (need a good mask) and the incremental workmanship challenges.

Good luck.

[XJOK2PLAY]

dbeardslee,

I've painted many things, many vehicles in the past.

Lacquer is easy to use, and easy to fix... say if you were to shoot a run, or trash gets in the paint, etc. It flashes and dries fast, and usually within an hour after shooting, should something go wrong, you're able to rescuff the problem area and repaint. It also lays on smoother than enamel, and shines well.

However.....
It's nowhere near as tough or durable as enamel is. It scratches easily, chips, and gas will destroy it. So it would suck for a gas tank paint job.

Automotive 2 stage paints these days are the most common.
Base coat/ clear coat.
If it were me, I'd go that way, and match primer-sealer/paint/clear in the same brand, to prevent any possible chemical incompatibility issue.
Trust me... it takes a lot of work to lay a perfect paint job, and some stupid chemical reaction happening is the last thing you want!

Some O'Reilly's Auto Parts have an entire automotive paint department. We have one in Tulsa like that, and they sell everything you need to do the job right.
They can also color match existing paint via a scanner.
They can also custom mix automotive grade primer-sealer/paint/ clearcoat and place them in rattle cans if you don't have a spray rig.

Prepwork is the most vital part to a great finish, so don't scrimp or take any shortcuts. Tack cloths are highly recommended to use right before you spray. Buy and use wax and grease removers. DO NOT allow any WD-40 to be sprayed anywhere in a one mile radius of your parts! Lol...
Make sure you carefully match reducer flash requirements to the temperature of your booth/spray area! Reducers that flash too fast due to high temps will totally screw up your finish. Too slow, and you'll shoot runs. Go easy on the clearcoats. One minute, it looks fantastic, the next... runs from being too heavy! Give the appropriate wait times between coats for drying.
A clean shop area, well lit, ventilated well, a good respirator, and wet the floors down before you spray are also recommended steps.

One other thing I can tell ya... If it looks good in primer, it'll probably look good in paint.

Painting can be both the biggest PITA, but if all goes right, can be very rewarding, too!

HTH's and good luck with your project.
Bob

[dbeardslee]

As I get into this more and more I have more and more questions. Now I'm seeing rattle cans with 2 part urethane paints and primers. I'm thinkin' that might be the way to go in terms of durability. I don't see a lot of colors available, but I'm not that picky. Last time I went with candy apple red, but this time I think I'll use a brighter red.

As far as paint supply houses, I'm just not familiar with any around here. I did a little looking around, but haven't found anyone with rattle cans - just "conventional" paint systems.

Any thoughts on urethane?

[Bikes]

To be more clear...my local auto body supply uses the same commercial grade paint in their rattle cans. They whip them up upon request. Goes on same as a sprayer (so long as you don't get any splatter when the nozzle clogs...HATE that!). Not sure all places do this.

This is how I do bikes now......so much easier.....any color code you want...same paint that the pros use......
Eastwood 2k clear is great stuff...color sand and polish, fuel doesnt bother it.....
Use good primer...
Local Advance Auto gets it for me......xs cost me 60 bucks for paint...

[motoman]

The time is drawing near for me to repaint Betsy, and I think this time I'm going to use rattle cans. I'm thinking Dupli Color primer and color, with a 2 part clear for better gas resistance. But I'm wondering whether to use laquer or enamel.

I'm also wondering if I can put down the primer coats, and continue with the color coats, or if they're going to react with the primer if it isn't cured. Would it be better to let the primer cure, then wet sand and apply the color? I figure to let the color coat cure well, then scuff it and apply the clear.

Any painters care to opine?

Enamel.........Sand off ALL old paint as it is laquer. Enamual will bubble and blister if done on top of laquer.

[dbeardslee]

I've recently used duplicolor. I followed directions, used matching products primer, paint and clear and the gas ate through the clear. I let the tank dry a few days before riding. Maybe it needed to cure a LOT longer?

I would not use duplicolor on gas tank EVER again. I would spend more and get some commercial grade rattle can at local auto body supply.

I was only planning to use Dupli Color for the primer and color coats. For the clear, this is what I had in mind - Eastwood 2k