New here, picked up an xs1100 today

[AdamW]

I'm in San Antonio, found a rejected 1100 with serial number 2h7-007678. I've been looking for a good platform to build a café style racer. I looked at kawasaki ninja 500s, Honda gl650s, Honda sabres and magnas but settled on an xs1100 when I found this k e for 200 bucks. Its not much to look at, but I'm planning on doing more or less a frame off restoration/cafe build. Some members here have some very sexy machines. Anywho, pics to follow shortly.

[AdamW]

No tank and no seat, part of the cheap price, but I'm pretty excited. I've never tried anything this in depth.

[tomcos67]

rebuild....

Good luck! Looking forward to see her come alive..

[IanDMacDonald]

Hey Adam- Bike looks half there. Excited to see it beginning to end.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Adam,

First of all, I fixed your photos....just remember to put in a carriage return/Hit Enter after pasting the text for each photo/url/img tags....that way it will put the next photo directly below the previous one....otherwise it causes severe sidescrolling putting them all side by side!!!

Next, be careful removing the fairing, you could recoup some $$ from members offering it for sale in the For Sale forum...many members like Fairings! Same thing for luggage/racks IF you have the luggage that goes with the racks?

Next, looks like you're missing the bottom half of the OEM airbox, but with a Cafe` you will probably be putting on POD filters instead.....see the tech tips, Mods, carbs, Velocity stack for how to put Pods on there and be able to have decent tunability. Same thing for the Exhaust.....looks like you're missing the header collector/to muffler and muffler section. You do NOT want ot try to run OPEN headers....very difficult to get the bike tuned to run worth a crap with just open headers!!

The rear shocks look like they might be XJ air shocks, but not sure, but sure they are not stock!

Can see it still has the glass fuse holder, that will be one of the first things you'll want to change to help eliminate electrical gremlins in the future!
http://www.xs11.com/forum/showpost.p...5&postcount=10

With only 30K miles, you've got lots of life left in that bike!!!

T.C.

[AdamW]

the whole bike needs to be rewired imo. It looks like it sat in the sun for a long time. Almost all of the wires are brittle and faded and cracking and exposed. But thanks for the tips!

[Prisoner6]

WELCOME, Adam!

Another build, huh?


That's GREAT! We love builds here!

[natemoen]

Welcome!

A lot of people show up here saying, "I am just going to rewire the bike." Problem is, most people don't really understand what all that really entails. That is a long hard process even if you do know what you are doing with building harnesses (and I am not talking about someone who just understands now to wire in an accessory or two here). Easiest would be to just get another good used harness and replace it.

Good luck! I just hope this doesn't end up as another craigslist "Come buy my custom unfinished project" add.

[DiverRay]

The hard part will be the apart and together!! I know, just got done with my '79 standard. As TC said, take everything off and mark it, as a lot of the parts can be sold to recoup most of the money you paid for the bike. With that said, it will STILL cost you a minimum of $600 to put it together CORRECTLY, and have a fun, quick machine.
Some of your cost should be, in no order:
SS brake lines, Barnett clutch springs, Auto cam chain adjuster, Steering stem bearings(the races PROBABLY have notches from sitting), Used wire harness, Fuel tank(I have a standard in OK shape, as well as a Special, look on the site to see what look you want as you CAN interchange them) Seat pan(or build one), and the $400 for GOOD paint.
Take you time, and ask question if you can't find something in a search. Some members will not like that you want to make it "different" than stock, but most of us just like the fact you will get it back on the road and enjoy it.
Welcome to the madness!
Oh, and I've made an engine stand bracket for the XS, and can send you some picks and dimensions if you want. It helps in that you can do almost anything with it bolted down, from top end to 2nd gear fix.

[Bikes]

Welcome Adam....looks like you got a project......this is the place to be, Ive brought mine around pretty good so far with help from the forum members...
I'd love to put a fairing on mine but shipping is usually costly......

[AdamW]

The hard part will be the apart and together!! I know, just got done with my '79 standard. As TC said, take everything off and mark it, as a lot of the parts can be sold to recoup most of the money you paid for the bike. With that said, it will STILL cost you a minimum of $600 to put it together CORRECTLY, and have a fun, quick machine.
Some of your cost should be, in no order:
SS brake lines, Barnett clutch springs, Auto cam chain adjuster, Steering stem bearings(the races PROBABLY have notches from sitting), Used wire harness, Fuel tank(I have a standard in OK shape, as well as a Special, look on the site to see what look you want as you CAN interchange them) Seat pan(or build one), and the $400 for GOOD paint.
Take you time, and ask question if you can't find something in a search. Some members will not like that you want to make it "different" than stock, but most of us just like the fact you will get it back on the road and enjoy it.
Welcome to the madness!
Oh, and I've made an engine stand bracket for the XS, and can send you some picks and dimensions if you want. It helps in that you can do almost anything with it bolted down, from top end to 2nd gear fix.

I would love the dimension for the stand.

[jwhughes3]

Welcome! What part of San Antonio do you live in? Your profile says Houston.

I am on the NW side if you want to stop by.

John

[AdamW]

Cibolo, NE side

[Tarheeltriple]

My son (my sons name is Adam Wayne) and I did a frame off resto a few years back here is the link for some tips..http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...ight=naked+boy

[DiverRay]

What I made is shown here:
[IMG][/IMG]
From the orange mount plate, the rear holes are 3 3/4", the front on the lower bars are 19". The bars are about 4 1/4" below the bolt holes in front, and the rear holes are about 4" above the bar. I would drop the engine about 6" lower, not 4", in the stand. As it is, it's a BEAR to turn as it's top heavy! 6" should be about center for the weight, and allow turning the engine in the stand much easier.
Picture #2
[IMG][/IMG]
View from the front.