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Removing Rusty Pinch Bolts

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  • Removing Rusty Pinch Bolts

    2005 Mercury Sable. Struts all the way around, end links up front being done. Pinch bolts in the rear are prone to snapping. Use of torch is recommended to heat them prior to removal. No access to oxy torch. Could I substitute MAPP gas torch in it's plate? I will be replacing the pinch bolts with new from dealership.
    1979 XS1100F
    2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

  • #2
    I would soak with penetrating oil first. I would think Propane is enough so MAPP is more than enough.

    John
    John is in an anonymous city with an Alamo (N29.519227,W-98.678980)

    Go ahead, click on the bikes - you know you want to...the electrons are ready.
    '81 XS1100H - "Enterprise"
    Bob Jones Custom Navy bike: Tkat brace, EBC floating rotors & SS lines, ROX pivot risers, Geezer rectifier, new 3H3 engine

    "Not all treasure is silver and gold"

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    • #3
      If you have not tried to remove them yet, try a 50/50 mix of Acetone and ATF instead of the penetrating oil. Works MUCH better that ALL store bought products. put some on the bolts, wait about 30 minutes, and take them off. Or, heat bolts, put on the mix, wait 5 minutes and then remove.
      Ray Matteis
      KE6NHG
      XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
      XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!

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      • #4
        Any update?? Don't keep us hangin' here.

        1) Fire up Internet Explorer
        2) http://www.yahoo.com
        3) type "www.mapquest.com" into the Yahoo search page.
        4) go about day as VP managing multi-million dollar financial contracts.

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        • #5
          Sorry guys. I bought an '05 Sable last year to keep mileage off our lease. Struts were needed all the way around. Doing more research, it was suggested to replace the plastic sway bar links in the front as-well. So, between Amazon and Ebay, I bought Monroe Quick Struts with Taxi Cab coils and Moog end links.

          Bought a MAP gas kit from Home Depot for $65. Soaked the bolts all week, alternating between Acetone/ATF mix, and PB Blaster.

          For those familiar with Ford Taurus front strut replacement, you have to drop the sub-frame to get the strut out of the pinch cup. Bought some RV jacks to hold the sub-frame while jacking the car up further. After a few breaks, cuss words, etc., I got it out. Reverse procedure provided the same colorful vocab.

          The rears were not that bad. I used plenty of heat, not trying to blow the bolts through with my 3/4" air impact. In the end, I got it done over a 8-hour period.

          Upon leaving, I noticed my brakes seemed mushy. Going down the hill, it was evident that something was wrong. Back into the shop I go. Ford cheaped-out and went to drums brakes on the rear. So, all that banging knocked the adjusters out of whack. So, got them set after a dozen turns. Brakes were so solid, I could hardly press the emergency brake pedal down.

          Week later, I notice my left rear side a little different. What's the diff? Look under and notice the bottom of the strut is higher than the other side. Do some more visual measuring and found the left rear side did not have the pinch bolt going through the D-ring. So, 5am this morning, I ran it down to the shop and hammered the knuckle up enough to get the bolt through. Job complete.
          1979 XS1100F
          2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by IanDMacDonald View Post
            ... So, 5am this morning, I ran it down to the shop and hammered the knuckle up enough to get the bolt through. Job complete.
            Nice save, Ian! Keep your eyes on it for a while and make sure it stays done!
            I hate jobs like that; never seem to quit.

            .
            -- Scott
            _____

            2004 ST1300A: No name... yet
            1982 XJ1100J: "Baby" SS Brakes, '850 FD, ACCT
            1980 XS1100G: "Columbo" SS Brakes, '850 FD, ACCT
            1979 XS1100SF: "Bush" W.I.P.
            1979 XS1100F: parts
            2018 Heritage Softail Classic 117 FLHCS SE: "Nanuk" It's DEAD, it's not just resting. It is an EX cycle.

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