300 mile stored barn find xs1100 in S.Diego

[BA80]

Lol, are we talking about the XS11, or that new Kawasaki Ninja . . .

The first time I cranked the throttle on my SG after I got it running right I almost went off the back. One hand came off the bars and I had an OH S**T!!! moment.

[cajun31]

Hey Ian

+1 on that. I haven't had the privilege of trying the Ninja out but I have given the hayabusa a go and once you have done one of those the XS11 is not the same thrill. Still if you have never been on either and you twist the throttle on our beloved XS11 it is still quite the thrill for the uniformed.

[3Ddesignsxs11]

What's the best source for the carb rebuild kit for the 1100F ?
I don't see it on mikesxs for this specific model.

[BA80]

All you really need are new bowl gaskets. The rest is pretty much just cleaning. I haven't bought a kit in years. Not even gaskets for that matter. Just reused the old ones.

The CLEANING is the key, that and proper float adjustment.

[3Ddesignsxs11]

I have not seen it, but I was told there was a leak where the needle inserts into a plastic socket??? I thought might as well replace them all

[cajun31]

Plastic socket

I am not aware of any plastic sockets? Most everything on the carbs is brass, aluminum and rubber and a few steel pieces. What specifically are you talking about that you think has plastic sockets?

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Zsolt,

IF the carbs are leaking, it's the FLOAT NEEDLE and the Float Seat that is not sealing properly. They are both brass/solid metal, and both corrosion or varnish can prevent the two parts from forming a proper seal. They can be cleaned and even polished to get them smooth so that they will seal like they should. There is a gasket that is between the seat and the carb body, it's fiber, and with age it could get damaged when you remove the seat.

Another source for leaking could be the "T" fittings in between the pairs of carbs...the rubber can age/shrink and then allow fuel to leak around/past them.

Other sources for gaskets are Z1enterprises as well as partsnmore.com.

T.C.

[3Ddesignsxs11]

We had the carbs pulled and checked one of them. Looks like t T fitting is split, and the slides were stuck in place with dry fuel. Fuel also must have been sitting in the bowls because you can see the residue in there from it.

Decided to send them out for rebuilding to make sure they are all done right.

Found this place in TX http://www.wgcarbs.com/
To do the XS11 costs 400 bucks.

Does anybody know these guys??? Any other suggestions?

[BA80]

Found this place in TX http://www.wgcarbs.com/
To do the XS11 costs 400 bucks.

Does anybody know these guys??? Any other suggestions?

Pricey!

[3Ddesignsxs11]

Yes pricey but considering this is for rebuilding 4 carbs parts and labor it's not that bad.

Found another guy too...
http://www.classiccarbsandmore.com/

[jetmechmarty]

I think there's somebody on here that does them for half of that. It might take a while to remember who it was.

[MPittma100]

Carbs

We had the carbs pulled and checked one of them. Looks like t T fitting is split, and the slides were stuck in place with dry fuel. Fuel also must have been sitting in the bowls because you can see the residue in there from it.

Decided to send them out for rebuilding to make sure they are all done right.

Found this place in TX http://www.wgcarbs.com/
To do the XS11 costs 400 bucks.

Does anybody know these guys??? Any other suggestions?

Too late now, but cleaning/rebuilding the carbs is something that you can do. It will save you a lot of effort with future repairs if you can get yourself a service manual for the bike.

You will need to sync the carbs after the rebuild when reinstalled with bike running at operating temperature. Therefore, you will need to acquire a set of sync gauges for a four cylinder arrangement.

[MPittma100]

Carbs

One more very good idea is to fill the carbs with gas through the fuel tees prior to installing them back on the bike. Let them sit a while and even turn them to an angle that simulates the bike being on the side stand. It is a lot easier to fix a leak with them off of the bike. A leak found after installation almost always requires removal a second time.

Note that the two upper tees are the bowl vents and the two lower tees are the fuel inlets. While checking for leaks, position the vent tees level with the top of the float bowl rather than pointing up. If you do find a leak(s), first thing to try is tapping on the bowl of the leaking carburetor.