Automotive A/C Compressor questions

[TopCatGr58]

Hey there folks,

I know we have a lot of pro-automechs, as well as well experienced DIYers, so I'm hoping for some great info.

My swmbo has a 2003 Hyundai SanteFe with the 2.7 V6. The other week we noticed a little puddle of clear oil on the ground near the front of the car, but didn't think much about it. It's been rather cool/cold around here for the past month or so, so she hasn't needed to use the Cool AC function.

So....I was hoping that it was just an O-ring seal leak, and got a can of 134A refrigerant and sealant combo, and went thru the standard recharge process, and just a few moments I heard the sound of gas/oil leaking/spurting out from the compressor! It was hard to see down there between the evaporating coils/radiator and exhaust manifold and such, so I couldn't tell if it was actually leaking from one of the HOSE fittings to the compressor or what???

But, now for the question. I remember years ago seeing AC compressors and the hoses seemed like they were factory molded to the compressor, not just a simple bolt on/off design. I just did a search for replacement AC compressors, and was surprised to find them in the $200-$300 range, was expecting to find $800+! But I'm wondering if it is a relatively simple BOLT OFF/ON process for the hoses/connections???? Has anybody done this with this type/model of car?? Any info appreciated! I need to see if I can do this myself....our budget can't afford an actual AC shop repair bill, but SWMBO has to have Cool A/C, she has heat intolerant health issues. TIA!

T.C.

[motoman]

Hey there folks,

I know we have a lot of pro-automechs, as well as well experienced DIYers, so I'm hoping for some great info.

My swmbo has a 2003 Hyundai SanteFe with the 2.7 V6. The other week we noticed a little puddle of clear oil on the ground near the front of the car, but didn't think much about it. It's been rather cool/cold around here for the past month or so, so she hasn't needed to use the Cool AC function.

So....I was hoping that it was just an O-ring seal leak, and got a can of 134A refrigerant and sealant combo, and went thru the standard recharge process, and just a few moments I heard the sound of gas/oil leaking/spurting out from the compressor! It was hard to see down there between the evaporating coils/radiator and exhaust manifold and such, so I couldn't tell if it was actually leaking from one of the HOSE fittings to the compressor or what???

But, now for the question. I remember years ago seeing AC compressors and the hoses seemed like they were factory molded to the compressor, not just a simple bolt on/off design. I just did a search for replacement AC compressors, and was surprised to find them in the $200-$300 range, was expecting to find $800+! But I'm wondering if it is a relatively simple BOLT OFF/ON process for the hoses/connections???? Has anybody done this with this type/model of car?? Any info appreciated! I need to see if I can do this myself....our budget can't afford an actual AC shop repair bill, but SWMBO has to have Cool A/C, she has heat intolerant health issues. TIA!

T.C.

Hi T.C
Could do it all yourself if you have an vacuum/evacuation pump and set of gauges. Otherwise, the evacuation and re-charge cost can't be avoided.
Myself, haven't before seen low-side or high-side connections on rotory pumps that weren't flangs fittings with O-rings.

[rdmcguy]

ac.hydraulic lines

Top cat,
I replaced some on an old pickup years ago,
They were basically high pressure/hydraulic lines.
Similar to brake lines in the sense that they were fine thread
and had a flared end,
I put some type of sealant on them(cant remember 25yrs. ago)
Recharged the system and that was it.
Good luck.
Joe

[TopCatGr58]

Thanks so far. Okay, did a little "net" research and found a few places that sell both just replacement compressors, as well as complete "Kits"! Here's what's in their kits:

Our Complete A/C Repair Kits include our brand new A/C Compressor listed above along with your new Accumulator/Drier, Expansion Device, Compressor Oil and O-rings. These are parts and materials you or your mechanic will need to do the job right.

I also found several YouTube videos on the replacement process, and Motoman/Brant....I don't have an a/c vacuum system, just the basic DIY recharge hose/gauge sets.

ARE these other parts really needed for a "proper" job, vs. just the compressor and O-rings and oil/refrigerant??

I think as you're suggesting that I can still save a fair amount of $$ by doing the actual physical removal/installation of the parts myself, and THEN taking it to a SHOP to have them VACUUM...FLUSH??...and recharge using the proper equipment!

T.C.

[rdmcguy]

vacuum and recharge

Once you disconnect those lines you won't need to worry about vacuuming the system.It will discharge itself.
The older Freon was not environmentally friendly so if you got caught discharging the system the fine was VERY hefty.
I don't know about the newer Freon.
Hear no! see no! speak no!

[BA80]

TC, The kit is the way to go. They are usually about the same price a just a compressor. Make sure you get a NEW compressor rather than a reman. The remans only last about a year on average.

I don't know without looking at your particular vehicle but generally the line connections on the compressor and drier will be simple bolt on connections. Especially on foreign vehicles.

Once you have replaced the necessary parts and added the proper amount of PAG oil to the system, (I recommend PAG oil with dye in case you end up fighting a leak), you will need to run a vacuum pump on the system for at least 30 minutes. This is to remove all moisture from the system before charging or it will freeze up inside and be inoperative and possibly destroy parts.

Unless you have the proper equipment it might be cheaper to just bite the bullet and pay someone for the evac and recharge. That part can be a little tricky.

[DGXSER]

Hey TC, yes you will want the kit. And depending on the true cause, maybe more. Just went through this on our CRV. Compressor took a crap, which puts particals of metal throughout the system. So new condenser as well compressor and lines. Just to make it real fun, Honda put the compressor at the bottom by the frame, so you need to pull part of the K frame to replace it.

But yes, the lines bolt on with an o-ring seal, the compressor bolts on as well. And as Greg suggested, you do want to pull a vacuum after you install all the parts to pull the air and moisture out before you add refrigerant. I always pull the vacuum, then let it sit 15-30 minutes and confirm your holding vacuum, no leaks. Then add refrigerant, run compressor, and adjust charge. Also note that the fittings on auto refrigeration are not the same as home AC, you will need adaptors/valves. About $50 at HF.

[bikerphil]

I use an evacuator/vac. pump such as this in conjunction with my guages when I do AC work. You need an air compressor to operate it. Only cost $15...

http://www.harborfreight.com/air-vac...ors-96677.html

Sometimes it's just the seal behind the clutch that goes bad.

[DGXSER]

Now that is downright creative Phil! Never heard of or seen one of those before.

[BA80]

I've used that type of vacuum pump. They take a pretty high volume of air and are rather noisy. I made one out of an old refrigerator compressor that worked real well. Don't know what happened to it though.

[rover]

A c

You can use an air compressor for a vac pump. Open the intake to the compressor and install a fitting that fits the can hose on the recharge kit. Pull vacuum for half an hour, and add 2 or 3 cans of R134A with oil in it. If your AC compressor failed, you should flush the system with PAG oil and Freon to get the metal particles out. There are also flush kits to use that work well. To change an older system with R12 in it, go to an AC shop. They will be happy to evacuate your R12, usually for free, cause the stuff is as costly as gold. Then pull vacuum for half an hour and recharge as above.

[XJOK2PLAY]

T.C.,

Most shops will also replace the expansion valve when replacing a compressor.
The orifice is tiny, and where the "magic" takes place.
It's the dividing point between the high pressure and low pressure.
Going through this orifice, when the freon falls into this low pressure zone of the system is what causes it to change from a gas to a liquid, and get very cold.
It's tiny, and can get easily clogged from any trash that may get into the system from the compressor failure.

A lot of shops now use a recovery/recycling station. It removes the oil, freon, water...runs it through a multi-filtration system, and then puts it back in your a/c system, once repairs are made. They claim it's cleaner than virgin freon, after it's separated and filtered.

Sucky part is how much they charge you to sell you back your own "filtered" freon!
Bob

[BA80]

The orifice will come in the kit.

[b.walker5]

You can use an air compressor for a vac pump. .

You might be able to use an air compressor in this way, but i wouldnt recommend it.

Evacuating a refrigerant system isnt about removing air (non condensibles) from the system, if it were that simple you wouldnt need a vacuum pump at all, purging would get do the job. Nor is it strictly time based. Its about removing moisture. The purpose of evacuation is produce a vacuum deep enough to lower the boiling (evaporating) point of water, to remove it from the system. Moisture is the main killer of refrigerant systems. In older systems, R12 is a chlorine (Cl) based refrigerant, which when mixed with water in the right quantities (H20), becomes HCl, HydroChloric Acid. Not a good thing to have running around the inside of your AC system.
In non chlorinated refrigerant systems, as with chlorinated systems, it can cause problems with freezing at the expansion valve, or orifice.

In order to achieve the evac required, you need to evacuate to at least 500 Torr, or 19.7 inches of mercury, for a minimum or 30 minutes, and i doubt that any venturi system run off an air compressor could get anywhere near that depth of vacuum.

[MPittma100]

Ac

Hi TC,

You should definitely get the kit with the accumulator, etc. Accumulators have a desiccant bag in them that comes apart over time and spreads desiccant through the system clogging up things.

Most compressor manufacturers require that you flush the system, as previously mentioned, to maintain the warranty. It is a good idea. Flush is available just about anywhere. Should also replace the belt.

Also, I have not seen a compressor that does not have removable hoses.

Replace the parts, vacuum for 30 minutes through gauges, stop vacuum and turn gauges off, wait for 5 minutes and make sure the low side gauge stays in a vacuum, then recharge.

Mike