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  • Motorcycle Safety reminders

    I think this article is a good reminder anytime. Click on the title to go to the link. This is worth your time.


    Most Common Motorcycle Accidents (And How to Avoid Them)

    By Jon Weeston On August 13, 2013

    Riding a motorcycle is dangerous. Luckily, bikes also give you the best possible tools to avoid crashing — incredibly powerful brakes, obstruction-free vision, excellent handling and very gripy tires. Here’s how to use those tools, and your very own brain, to avoid an accident.


    Motorcycle Safety:
    Want to reduce your odds of dying in a crash? Get educated. New riders should complete a basic rider course from the MSF or similar while advanced tuition is available at race tracks. It can be cheaper than you fear.


    Safety gear doesn’t just help prevent injury in a crash, but can make riding more comfortable, put you in better control of your bike and help you be seen by other drivers. Bright colors on your helmet and jacket/suit will help car drivers see you, potentially avoiding some of the common accidents detailed below.

    A Car Turns Left In Front Of You
    The most common motorcycle accident. A car fails to see you or judges your speed incorrectly, turning in front of you at an intersection. Blame inattention, distraction, blind spots and even psychology; a driver looking for cars perceives merely an absence of cars, not the presence of a motorcycle.

    How To Avoid It: Simple, you just need to see it coming. Part of your job as a motorcyclist is to develop a precognitive sixth sense. Look for signs that could indicate someone may turn in front of you: a car is at an intersection waiting to turn, there’s a gap in traffic near an intersection, driveway or parking lot. In either situation, slow down, cover your brakes and get ready to take evasive action. Yes, you do need to take something as innocuous as a car waiting in a turn lane as a major and immediate threat to your life. You also need to account for objects outside of your vision. Gaps in traffic indicate the possibility of someone coming through that gap, even if you can’t see them. Again, MAJOR THREAT, PREPARE FOR EVASIVE ACTION.

    And once you’ve identified said threat, you can work it through levels of severity. Is the driver clearly able to see you, without obstruction from their window pillars, trees or signs? Is that person actually looking? Are they looking at you? How are they situated in the road? What is their speed? Where are their wheels pointing?

    Look at their wheels, not the car, they’ll give you the first clue of movement. During all this, also be aware of what’s behind and to your side. Should you need to take evasive action, you’ll need to know your routes of escape. It’s no good braking in time to avoid a turning car, only to be swatted from behind by a tailgating SUV. What’s the road surface like? Is it going to be able to handle the full force of your brakes or are you going to lock them? You do know how to use the full ability of your brakes, right?

    Under no circumstances should you “lay the bike down.” Your best chance of survival comes from shedding as much speed as possible pre-collision, and you’re going to be able to do that best with the bike completely upright, using both brakes. Even if you only have time to lose 10 or 20mph, that could be the difference between going home with bruises and going home at all.


    You Hit Gravel In A Blind Corner
    You’re out riding the twisties when, seemingly without warning, you round a corner to find a patch of sand/gravel/leaves/horse dung/whatever in your path. You put your front tire in it and wipe out.

    How To Avoid It: Don’t hit it in the first place. Ride at a pace where your reaction time and ability to take action fit within your range of vision. On the road, “Slow In, Fast Out” is an effective rule of thumb. Enter a corner wide, to increase your vision and at an easy pace. You can pick up the speed on the way out, once you can see all the way through.

    Trail braking is a slightly more advanced skill that you’ll need to learn and practice on a track before applying on the road. Using it, you brake all the way to the apex using the front brake before swapping brake for throttle. Since you’re already on the brakes and the bike’s weight is distributed forward, compressing the front suspension and increasing the size of the front tire’s contact patch, you can easily tighten your line by applying a little more brake or widen it by letting off. Doing so should help you avoid obstacles such as gravel.

    Another advanced skill, which is oddly controversial in rule-loving America, but which is taught by advanced police riders abroad, is to maximize vision by using the full width of the road, regardless of lanes. Vision equals safety equals speed. Again, learn this from a trained professional before trying it yourself.


    You Entered A Corner Too Fast
    And now it’s unexpectedly tightening and you’re just not going to make it around. Oh no.

    How To Avoid It: Don’t be a dummy. Only ride as fast as you can see and use visual clues like telephone polls and signs to judge a road’s direction, even if that road is disappearing over a blind crest.

    If you do find yourself going too fast in a corner, the best approach is to trust the bike and try to ride it out. The bike is likely more capable than you are, so it’s really you that’s not capable of making around. Take as much lean out of the bike as possible by hanging off, look where you want to go and be as smooth as possible on the controls. Do not whack on the brakes, chop the throttle or do anything else that may upset the bike and cause a loss of traction. Don’t panic if a peg or knee or something else touches down, just try to hold that lean angle, look for the corner exit and ride it out.

    This is another situation in which trail braking can be a real help, allowing you to safely shed speed while already in the corner.


    A Car Changes Lane Into You
    You’re riding in traffic when a car in another lane suddenly veers into the space you’re occupying. Remember, our tiny motorcycles can easily fit into blind spots and drivers looking for cars aren’t psychologically programmed to see motorcycles.

    How To Avoid It: Be aware of where blind spots lie and spend as little time in them as possible. If you can see a drivers eyes in their mirrors, then they have the ability to see you too.

    Beware of situations where lane changes become more possible. Is highway traffic slowing, with one lane moving faster than others? People are going to want to be in that lane. Don’t be where they want to be.

    Look for signs of a car changing lanes: turn signals, wheels turning, the car wandering around its own lane while the driver checks his mirrors and, of course, the driver’s head moving. Be aware of all that, in all the cars around you, at all times, and you’ll be good.


    A Car Hits You From Behind
    You come to a halt a stop sign/cross walk/intersection/to avoid a family of baby ducks when, the driver behind you doesn’t see you or isn’t trying to and plows into you at high speed. The most common car accident is a “fender bender.” A fender bender can kill a motorcyclist.

    How To Avoid It: Use cars as your very own crumple zone. A single car stopped at a multi-lane stoplight, with more cars coming from behind? Pull in front of it (wave nicely) and you’re cushioned from any subsequent impacts. Between a line of cars works just as well.

    No free crumple zones available? Stop to the side rather than the center of a lane, rapidly flash your brake light by tapping a brake lever, keep the bike in gear and your right hand on the throttle. Pay attention to what’s coming up behind you and be prepared to scoot away should it appear someone’s about to come plowing into you.

    Be particularly aware in situations where there’s bad visibility, at times when drunk driving is prevalent (do all the bars around you let out at 1am?) and when stops are unexpected, such as at pedestrian crosswalks on very busy streets and stuff like those cute baby ducks crossing the road.

    Most Common Motorcycle Accidents (And How to Avoid Them)

    Your Riding Buddies Are Idiots
    You’ve seen it happen. A group is out for a ride when one of them stops suddenly or something similar. His buddy is too busy day dreaming to realize and hits him from behind. This has happened to us, it can happy to anyone.

    How To Avoid It: Make sure everyone is aware of proper group riding etiquette and knows to ride in a staggered formation. You’d be amazed how many people are unaware of this simple technique. Doing so increases vision and moves bikes out of line with each other, meaning a temporary lapse in attention wont’ result in a collision. Pick smarter riding buddies or do what I do: ride alone.


    You Locked The Front Brake
    Oh no, a deer/cute girl/cop/stopped traffic. You grab a fistful of front brake and, next thing you know, you’re laying on the ground, watching your bike cartwheel down the street.

    How To Avoid It: Learn to use your front brake. It might seem counter-intuitive, but that front brake is the most powerful and difficult-to-master component on your motorcycle; it can alter your speed much more quickly than your engine.

    If you’re just learning to ride, have simply never mastered this skill or bought a new bike and need to learn it, find a big, empty parking lot and start practicing. From a set speed (say 30mph), start braking at a certain mark, then repeat ad infinitum until you’ve reduced your braking distance as much as possible. You should be able to feel the tire on the very edge of locking up and the rear wheel lifting off the ground. Then go and practice at higher and higher speeds until you can employ the maximum braking ability of your motorcycle reliably and safely.

    Or just buy a bike with ABS, remember you have it, and squeeze the lever as hard as you can when you need to make an emergency stop.


    A Car Opened Its Door
    The biggest gap in traffic was between a line of parked cars and a stationary line of active traffic. So you go scooting through it when, all of a sudden, Nathan-no-look swings his door wide open right in front of you.

    How To Avoid It: Never, ever, ever, ever ride between an active traffic lane and parked cars. Not just because of the opening doors thing, but because pedestrians step out, cars pull out so they can see, and for a million other reasons. Just don’t do it. If you do, somehow, find yourself in a door opening situation though, follow all the advice above and brake as hard as possible. Even if a collision is inevitable, shedding even a small fraction of your speed can really help.

    Cyclist’s call the area next to parked cars, within a doors’ width “The Death Zone” for a reason.


    It’s Slippery!
    Stuff is coming out of the sky! That stuff is cold, wet and, surprise surprise, slippery. Listen to Douglas Adams and don’t panic.

    How To Avoid It: Does your bike have decent tires on it or were you silly and decided that running track rubber on the road was a good idea. Hint: it’s not. So long as you’re running reasonable tires and those tires aren’t worn out, you’ll be surprised at how well a motorcycle does in wet or even snowy conditions. Just slow down and be as smooth as possible on the controls.

    In the wet, stuff like manhole covers become super, extra slippery and you’ll need to watch out for oil and Diesel on the road as well. Look for patches of rainbow and avoid those. If it hasn’t rained for a while, the first hour or so of rainfall is the most treacherous, it lifts all the oils and whatnot out of the pavement, floating it on top. Treat yourself to a hot cup of coffee and wait for a solid downpour to wash all that junk away.

    Also beware of the limited visibility rain creates for other drivers and their general ineptitude; car drivers don’t seem to understand that slippery conditions necessitate longer following distances and earlier braking.

    Ron Haslam advocates keeping revs up in the wet. The thinking is that, should your rear spin up, you’ll be using a smaller amount of throttle opening, allowing you to regain traction much easier than if you’re riding at 30mph in 6th, at wide open throttle.


    The Most Common Bike Accident
    According to the 1981 Hurt Report — the largest study ever conducted on motorcycle accident causation — alcohol is a factor in 50 percent of all bike wrecks.

    How To Avoid It: Don’t drink and ride.

    - RIDE APART Contributed to this Article
    Marty (in Mississippi)
    XS1100SG
    XS650SK
    XS650SH
    XS650G
    XS6502F
    XS650E

  • #2
    Very cool, I don't know about the very good brakes though.lol
    Jeff
    77 XS750 2D completely stock
    79 SF XS1100 "Picky" stock with harley mufflers

    Comment


    • #3
      Thanks Marty. This could be a Sticky for frequent reference AND sending Newbies to read.
      Phil
      1981 XS1100 H Venturer ( Addie)
      1983 XJ 650 Maxim
      2004 Kawasaki Concours. ( Black Bear)

      Comment


      • #4
        Good article. My rule-- Ride like an old lady ( nothing against old ladies, I mean ride sorta slowly), and ALWAYS expect the other guy to do the wrong thing (i.e., that guy backing up with the rear end of his car partway out, expect him to pull out the rest of the way. Slow down a bit, put hand on brake lever, and get ready to pull it. Now, occasionally I've been known to rap through the gears like I'm on a drag strip on certain straightaways for fun (after all, we are riding one of the fastest bikes ever produced!), but I have always ridden defensively. Good info presented in this article. Thanks for posting it.
        79 F
        Previously owned: (among others)
        1969 Harley- Davidson Rapido 125 (Aermacchi)
        1967 Suzuki X6 Hustler
        1973 Suzuki TM 125
        1979 XS1100 F
        2005 Kaw. Vulcan VN800
        1991 BMW K75

        Comment


        • #5
          Almost paid the price

          I came close to getting nailed from behind today and it was my fault. I was sitting at an intersection in the left/U turn lane waiting for my green arrow, but the sensor was not picking me up and I sat through 2 light changes. In my frustration I made a U-turn on a red arrow, but did not see the car (who had the right of way) coming because I was irritated AND I didn't realize I was in second gear and stalled halfway through the turn. The guy laid on the brakes and the horn. My bad all the way.
          "Galaxy" 1982 XJ1100J, 1983 XV handlebars, new fusebox, homemade SS wind screen and SS muffler heat shields, homemade grab bar extension and luggage rack. XS750 140 mph speedo, '81 Venture oil cooler, V-Max ACCT, Yahman YICS Eliminator, 1st and 2nd gear Dremel fix.

          Comment


          • #6
            Slippery when wet

            Along with the oils and ect making it difficult to stop, turn accelerate.
            Watch for the painted crosswalks and lane markers. Including those turn arrows.
            No grip whatsoever!

            Comment


            • #7


              I like to go through the turns fast (fast by my standards). When it comes to these blind right handers, I'm going to slow right down. I'm usually thinking of a truck stopped just out of view with traffic coming the other way, or rocks in the road just beyond the apex. The only thing worse than blowing a turn is blowing a turn and hitting another vehicle head on.
              Marty (in Mississippi)
              XS1100SG
              XS650SK
              XS650SH
              XS650G
              XS6502F
              XS650E

              Comment


              • #8
                Hey Marty,

                Good article, thanks. Believe it or not, I've not taken the MSF course, started riding when I was 17. I have thought about getting into a course to see if there's something I haven't already learned or knew.

                I do take exception to the "advanced" technique described as Trail braking. On a racetrack, yeah, but in the real world in turns/twisties while applying the front brake....hitting a very fine layer of sand/dust or oil that can't be seen=easiest way to dump the front end! I, too, agree....brake before the turn, accelerate thru and out of it.

                T.C.
                T. C. Gresham
                81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
                79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
                History shows again and again,
                How nature points out the folly of men!

                Comment


                • #9
                  TC, Trail braking is, as you have noted is an advanced technique. Most of us on a spirited ride have no need for it. As long as entry speed is controlled, getting through a corner is easy enough. We should leave room to change our line if confronted with an obstacle. Trail braking with shorten trail and spread the footprint of the front tire improving traction, so the theory says. Stab the brakes and all bets are off. Stabbing the brakes in a turn is to be avoided!

                  See my next post!
                  Marty (in Mississippi)
                  XS1100SG
                  XS650SK
                  XS650SH
                  XS650G
                  XS6502F
                  XS650E

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Riding the Pace


                    Using the experience of others to make motorbike riding safer and more enjoyable.

                    (very much worth reading the whole thing.)


                    By Nick Ienatsch
                    A year after I joined the Motorcyclist staff in 1984, Mitch Boehm was hired. Six months later, The Pace came into being, and we perfected it during the next few months of road testing and weekend fun rides. Now The Pace is part of my life--and a part of the Sunday-morning riding group I frequent. The Pace is a street technique that not only keeps street riders alive, but thoroughly entertained as well.

                    THE PACE

                    The Pace focuses on bike control and de-emphasizes outright speed. Full-throttle acceleration and last minute braking aren't part of the program, effectively eliminating the two most common single-bike accident scenarios in sport riding. Cornering momentum is the name of the game, stressing strong, forceful inputs at the handlebar to place the bike correctly at the entrance of the turn and get it flicked in with little wasted time and distance. Since the throttle wasn't slammed open at the exit of the last corner, the next corner doesn't require much, if any, braking. It isn't uncommon to ride with our group and not see a brake light flash all morning.

                    If the brakes are required, the front lever gets squeezed smoothly, quickly and with a good deal of force to set entrance speed with minimum time. Running in on the brakes is tantamount to running off the road, a confession that you're pushing too hard and not getting your entrance speed set early enough because you stayed on the gas too long. Running The Pace decreases your reliance on the throttle and brakes, the two easiest controls to abuse, and hones your ability to judge cornering speed, which is the most thrilling aspect of performance street riding.

                    YOUR LANE IS YOUR LIMIT

                    Crossing the centerline at any time except during a passing maneuver is intolerable, another sign that you're pushing too hard to keep up. Even when you have a clean line of sight through a left-hand kink, stay to the right of the centerline. Staying on the right side of the centerline is much more challenging than simply straightening every slight corner, and when the whole group is committed to this intelligent practice, the temptation to cheat is eliminated through peer pressure and logic. Though street riding shouldn't be described in racing terms, you can think of your lane as the racetrack. Leaving your lane is tantamount to a crash.

                    Exact bike control has you using every inch of your lane if the circumstances permit it. In corners with a clear line of sight and no oncoming traffic, enter at the far outside of the corner, turn the bike relatively late in the corner to get a late apex at the far inside of your lane and accelerate out, just brushing the far outside of your lane as your bike stands up. Steer your bike forcefully but smoothly to minimize the transition time; don't hammer it down because the chassis will bobble slightly as it settles, possibly carrying you off line. Since you haven't charged in on the brakes, you can get the throttle on early, before the apex, which balances and settles your bike for the drive out.

                    More often than not, circumstances do not permit the full use of your lane from yellow line to white line and back again. Blind corners, oncoming traffic and gravel on the road are a few criteria that dictate a more conservative approach, so leave yourself a three- or four-foot margin for error, especially at the left side of the lane where errant oncoming traffic could prove fatal.

                    Simply narrow your entrance on a blind right-hander and move your apex into your lane three feet on blind left turns in order to stay free of unseen oncoming traffic hogging the centerline.

                    Because you're running at The Pace and not flat out, your controlled entrances offer additional time to deal with unexpected gravel or other debris in your lane; the outside wheel track is usually the cleanest through a dirty corner since a car weights its outside tires most, scrubbing more dirt off the pavement in the process, so aim for that line.

                    A GOOD LEADER, WILLING FOLLOWERS

                    The street is not a racing environment, and it takes humility, self-assurance and self-control to keep it that way. The leader sets the pace and monitors his mirrors for signs of raggedness in the ranks that follow, such as tucking in on straights, crossing over the yellow line and hanging off the motorcycle in corners. If the leader pulls away, he simply slows his straightaway speed slightly but continues to enjoy the corners, thus closing the ranks but missing none of the fun. The small group of three or four riders I ride with is so harmonious that the pace is identical no matter who's leading. The lead shifts occasionally with a quick hand sign, but there's never a pass for the lead with an ego on the sleeve. Make no mistake; the riding is spirited and quick--in the corners. Anyone with a right arm can hammer down the straights; it's the proficiency in the corners that makes The Pace come alive.

                    Following distances are relatively lengthy, with the straight-aways---taken at more moderate speeds--the perfect opportunity to adjust the gaps. Keeping a good distance serves several purposes, besides being safer. Rock chips are minimized and the highway patrol won't suspect a race is in progress. The Pace's style of not hanging off in corners also reduces the appearance of pushing too hard and adds a degree of maturity and sensibility in the eyes of the public and the law. There's a definite challenge to cornering quickly while sitting sedately on your bike. New rider indoctrination takes some time because The Pace develops very high cornering speeds and newcomers want to hammer the throttle on exits to make up for what they lose at the entrances. Our group slows drastically when a new rider joins the ranks because our technique of moderate straightaway speeds and no brakes can suck the unaware into a corner too fast, creating the most common single-bike accident. With a new rider learning The Pace behind you, tap your brake lightly well before the turn to alert him and make sure he understands there's no pressure to stay with the group.

                    There's plenty of ongoing communication during The Pace. A foot off the peg indicates debris on the road, and all slowing or turning intentions are signaled in advance with the left hand and arm. Turn signals are used for direction changes and passing, with a wave of the left hand to thank the cars that move right and make it easy for the motorcyclists to get past. Since you don't have a death grip on the handlebar, you left hand is also free to wave to oncoming riders, a fading courtesy that we'd like to see return. If you're getting the idea The Pace is a relaxing, noncompetitive way to ride with a group, you are right.

                    RELAX AND FLICK IT

                    I'd rather spend a Sunday in the mountains riding at The Pace than a Sunday at the racetrack, it is that enjoyable.

                    Counter steering is the name of the game, a smooth forceful steering input at the handlebar relayed to the tires contact patches through a rigid sport-bike frame. Riding at The Pace is certainly what the bike manufacturers had in mind when sport bikes evolved to the street.

                    But the machine isn't the most important aspect of running The Pace because you can do it on anything capable of getting through a corner. Attitude is The Pace's most important aspect; realizing the friend ahead of you isn't a competitor, respecting his right to lead the group occasionally and giving him credit for his riding skills. You must have the maturity to limit your straightaway speeds to allow the group to stay in touch and the sense to realize that racetrack tactics such as late braking and full throttle runs to redline will alienate the public and police and possibly introduce you to the unforgiving laws of gravity. When the group arrives at the destination after running The Pace, no one feels outgunned or is left with the feeling he must prove himself on the return run. If you've got something to prove, get on a racetrack.

                    The racetrack measures your speed with a stopwatch and direct competition, welcoming your aggression and gritty resolve to be the best. Performance street riding's only yardstick is the amount of enjoyment gained, not lap times, finishing position or competitors beaten. The differences are huge but not always remembered by riders who haven't discovered The Pace's cornering pureness and group involvement. Hammer on the racetrack. Pace yourself on the street.

                    The street is not the track - It's a place to Pace.

                    Two weeks ago a rider died when he and his bike tumbled off a cliff paralleling our favorite road. No gravel in the lane, no oncoming car pushing him wide, no ice. The guy screwed up. Rider error. Too much enthusiasm with too little skill, and this fatality wasn't the first on this road this year. As with most single-bike accidents, the rider entered the corner at a speed his brain told him was too fast, stood the bike up and nailed the rear brake. Goodbye.

                    On the racetrack the rider would have tumbled into the hay bales, visited the ambulance for a strip of gauze and headed back to the pits to straighten his handlebars and think about his mistake. But let's get one thing perfectly clear: the street is not the racetrack. Using it as such will shorten your riding career and keep you from discovering the Pace. The Pace is far from street racing - and a lot more fun.

                    The Pace places the motorcycle in its proper role as the controlled vehicle, not the controlling vehicle. Too many riders of sport bikes become baggage when the throttle gets twisted - the ensuing speed is so overwhelming they are carried along in the rush. The Pace ignores outright speed and can be as much fun on a Ninja 250 as on a ZX-11, emphasizing rider skill over right-wrist bravado. A fool can twist the grip, but a fool has no idea how to stop or turn. Learning to stop will save your life; learning to turn will enrich it. What feels better than banking a motorcycle over into a corner?

                    The mechanics of turning a motorcycle involve pushing and/or pulling on the handlebars; while this isn't new information for most sport riders, realize that the force at the handlebar affects the motorcycle's rate of turn-in. Shove hard on the bars, and the bike snaps over; gently push the bars, and the bike lazily banks in. Different corners require different techniques, but as you begin to think about lines, late entrances and late apexes, turning your bike at the exact moment and reaching he precise lean angle will require firm, forceful inputs ant the handlebars. If you take less time to turn your motorcycle, you can use that time to brake more effectively or run deeper into the corner, affording yourself more time to judge the corner and a better look at any hidden surprises. It's important to look as far into the corner as possible and remember the adage, "You go where you look."

                    DON'T RUSH

                    The number-one survival skill, after mastering emergency braking, is setting your corner-entrance speed early, or as Kenny Roberts says, "Slow in, fast out." Street riders may get away with rushing into 99 out of 100 corners, but that last one will have gravel, mud or a trespassing car. Setting entrance speed early will allow you to adjust your speed and cornering line, giving you every opportunity to handle the surprise.

                    We've all rushed into a corner too fast and experienced not just the terror but also the lack of control when trying to herd the bike into the bend. If you're fighting the brakes and trying to turn the bike, any surprise will be impossible to deal with. Setting your entrance speed early and looking into the corner allows you to determine what type of corner you're facing. Does the radius decrease? Is the turn off-camber? Is there an embankment that may have contributed some dirt to the corner?

                    Racers talk constantly about late braking, yet that technique is used only to pass for position during a race, not to turn a quicker lap time. Hard braking blurs the ability to judge cornering speed accurately, and most racers who rely too heavily on the brakes find themselves passed at the corner exits because they scrubbed off too much cornering speed. Additionally, braking late often forces you to trail the brakes or turn the motorcycle while still braking. While light trail braking is an excellent and useful technique to master, understand that your front tire has only a certain amount of traction to give.

                    If you use a majority of the front tire's traction for braking and then ask it to provide maximum cornering traction as well, a typical low-side crash will result. Also consider that your motorcycle won't steer as well with the fork fully compressed under braking. If you're constantly fighting the motorcycle while turning, it may be because you're braking too far into the corner. All these problems can be eliminated by setting your entrance speed early, an important component of running the Pace.

                    Since you aren't hammering the brakes at every corner entrance, your enjoyment of pure cornering will increase tremendously. You'll relish the feeling of snapping your bike into the corner and opening the throttle as early as possible. Racers talk about getting the drive started, and that's just as important on the street. Notice how the motorcycle settles down and simply works better when the throttle is open? Use a smooth, light touch on the throttle and try to get the bike driving as soon as possible in the corner, even before the apex, the tightest point of the corner. If you find yourself on the throttle ridiculously early, it's an indication you can increase your entrance speed slightly be releasing the brakes earlier.

                    As you sweep past the apex, you can begin to stand the bike up out of the corner. This is best done by smoothly accelerating, which will help stand the bike up. As the rear tire comes off full lean, it puts more rubber on the road, and the forces previously used for cornering traction can be converted to acceleration traction. The throttle can be rolled open as the bike stands up.

                    This magazine won't tell you how fast is safe; we will tell you how to go fast safely. How fast you go is your decision, but it's one that requires reflection and commitment. High speed on an empty four-lane freeway is against the law, but it's fairly safe. Fifty-five miles per hour in a canyon may be legal, but it may also be dangerous. Get together with your friends and talk about speed. Set a reasonable maximum and stick to it. Done right, the Pace is addicting without high straightaway speeds.

                    The group I ride with couldn't care less about outright speed between corners; any gomer can twist a throttle. If you routinely go 100 mph, we hope you routinely practice emergency stops from that speed. Keep in mind outright speed will earn a ticket that is tough to fight and painful to pay; cruising the easy straight stuff doesn't attract as much attention from the authorities and sets your speed perfectly for the next sweeper.

                    GROUP MENTALITY

                    Straights are the time to reset the ranks. The leader needs to set a pace that won't bunch up the followers, especially while leaving a stop sign or passing a car on a two-lane road. The leader must use the throttle hard to get around the car and give the rest of the group room to make the pass, yet he or she can't speed blindly along and earn a ticket for the whole group. With sane speeds on the straights, the gaps can be adjusted easily; the bikes should be spaced about two seconds apart for maximum visibility of surface hazards.

                    It's the group aspect of the Pace I enjoy most, watching the bikes in front of me click into a corner like a row of dominoes, or looking in my mirror as my friends slip through the same set of corners I just emerged from.

                    Because there's a leader and a set of rules to follow, the competitive aspect of sport riding is eliminated and that removes a tremendous amount of pressure from a young rider's ego - or even an old rider's ego. We've all felt the tug of racing while riding with friends or strangers, but the Pace takes that away and saves it for where it belongs: the racetrack. The racetrack is where you prove your speed and take chances to best your friends and rivals.

                    I've spend a considerable amount of time writing about the Pace (see Motorcyclist, Nov. '91) for several reasons, not the least of which being the fun I've had researching it (continuous and ongoing). But I have motivations that aren't so fun. I got scared a few years ago when Senator Danforth decided to save us from ourselves by trying to ban super bikes, soon followed by insurance companies blacklisting a variety of sport bikes. I've seen Mulholland Highway shut down because riders insisted on racing (and crashing) over a short section of it. I've seen heavy police patrols on roads that riders insist on throwing themselves off of. I've heard the term "murder-cycles" a dozen times too many. When we consider the abilities of a modern sport bike, it becomes clear that rider techniques is sorely lacking.

                    The Pace emphasizes intelligent, rational riding techniques that ignore racetrack heroics without sacrificing fun. The skills needed to excel on the racetrack make up the basic precepts of the Pace, excluding the mind-numbing speeds and leaving the substantially larger margin for error needed to allow for unknowns and immovable objects. Our sport faces unwanted legislation from outsiders, but a bit of throttle management from within will guarantee our future.

                    THE PACE PRINCIPLES

                    Set cornering speed early. Blow the entrance and you'll never recover.

                    Look down the road. Maintaining a high visual horizon will reduce perceived speed and help you avoid panic situations.

                    Steer the bike quickly. There's a reason Wayne Rainey works out - turning a fast-moving motorcycle takes muscle.

                    Use your brakes smoothly but firmly Get on and then off the brakes; don't drag 'em.

                    Get the throttle on early. Starting the drive settles the chassis, especially through a bumpy corner.

                    Never cross the centerline except to pass. Crossing the centerline in a corner is an instant ticket and admittance that you can't really steer your bike. In racing terms, your lane is your course; staying right of the line adds a significant challenge to most roads and is mandatory for sport riding's future.

                    Don't crowd the centerline Always expect an oncoming car with two wheels in your lane.

                    Don't hang off in the corners or tuck in on the straights Sitting sedately on the bike looks safer and reduces unwanted attention. It also provides a built-in safety margin.

                    When leading, ride for the group Good verbal communication is augmented with hand signals and turn signals; change direction and speed smoothly.

                    When following, ride with the group. If you can't follow a leader, don't expect anyone to follow you when you're setting the pace.

                    Nick Ienatsch Sport Rider Magazine June 1993
                    Marty (in Mississippi)
                    XS1100SG
                    XS650SK
                    XS650SH
                    XS650G
                    XS6502F
                    XS650E

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      It's All Good

                      Very good information and glad to see it posted. It is such a good idea to be reminded of the bad things that can happen. It reinforces defensive driving kinda like the "Tree of Shame" does.

                      In all seriousness, thanks for the safety reminder. It does us all good.

                      I took the safety training/riding course 3 years ago mainly because I had not ridden for many years. I did ride for many years-many years ago, but still felt the course was a good idea. I believe I got the suggestion to take it right here. I learned and relearned a lot from the experience and am very glad that I spent that weekend doing it. Would highly recommend it to all.

                      MP
                      1981 XS1100H Venturer
                      K&N Air Filter
                      ACCT
                      Custom Paint by Deitz
                      Geezer Rectifier/Regulator
                      Chacal Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines
                      Chrome Front Rotor & Caliper Covers
                      Stebel Nautilus Horn
                      EBC Front Rotors
                      Limie Accent Moves On In 2015

                      Mike

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Thanks Marty !

                        Minibikes at 8, scooters at 10, first HD at 14, 2nd HD at 17, 1st RD350 at 21, 77XS650 at 25, XS1100 at 27, 86 Radian at 34, 88 BMWK100LT at 37, 56 XS650s between 42-59, XS1100 LH at 60, XS1100 SH at 60.
                        Ride like you are in a war zone, the enemy is everywhere watch all avenues out of any position, I'm the target they are the shooters, dodge and weave.
                        I stay ahead as much as possible see the congestion ahead and back off, or see the avenues of freedom and go for it.
                        76 XS650 C ROADSTER
                        80 XS650 G Special II
                        https://ibb.co/album/icbGgF
                        80 XS 1100 SG
                        81 XS 1100LH/SH DARKHORSE
                        https://tinyurl.com/k6nzvtw
                        AKA; Don'e, UD, Unca Don'e

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I did not take the MSF course either. If I remember correctly (TC, help me out here), back in 1972, after a road test ( we were followed by some guy in a car), we just had to pay an extra couple of $'s to get a cycle endorsement. I got mine at 16. My recollection is a bit fuzzy , after all, I'm an old geezer. At any rate, a lot of experience is a big help while on the road. Texting, cell phones, eating burgers, etc., all take the drivers' minds off paying attention to cyclists. Too much fun to stop riding, though.
                          79 F
                          Previously owned: (among others)
                          1969 Harley- Davidson Rapido 125 (Aermacchi)
                          1967 Suzuki X6 Hustler
                          1973 Suzuki TM 125
                          1979 XS1100 F
                          2005 Kaw. Vulcan VN800
                          1991 BMW K75

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I bought my first bike in Florida. There was no motorcycle endorsement on a driver's license back then, so I could just go buy the bike and ride it. I had a friend ride it home for me. The bike sat in the carport for a few days until I got the beginner MSF course behind me.
                            Marty (in Mississippi)
                            XS1100SG
                            XS650SK
                            XS650SH
                            XS650G
                            XS6502F
                            XS650E

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              First bike in '68, 16 years old, no such thing as MSF in central Wisconsin. You just got on and learned through experience. Motorcycle endorsement test was in a parking lot. You had to accelerate, shift at least once, then come to a stop on a line, also weave between some cones set up in a straight line. That was it. No road course as is common now.

                              Articles such as those posted above are always a good reminder. A general rule, and one I always use, is that "you are invisible" and ride accordingly. Never assume other drivers will see you or acknowledge your existence.

                              I've had one accident since '68. In '74 I was hit by a truck at an intersection, missed a week of work but no hospital time. Truck driver was found to be at fault - ran a stop sign - not much comfort but the trucking company did have to pay me for lost work time. (I was self-employed.) Totaled the bike. I was lucky but I was wearing protective gear which helped minimize injuries. Since then have had narrow misses but have gone 39 years without damaging physical contact. Some white-knuckle situations, a few of my own making, but most were not.

                              Never let down your guard. Don't get distracted. (Personally I don't even wear my mp3 player when riding.) Keep the eyes moving and always have a Plan B. Use extra caution at intersections. Stay safe.
                              Jerry Fields
                              '82 XJ 'Sojourn'
                              '06 Concours
                              My Galleries Page.
                              My Blog Page.
                              "... life is just a honky-tonk show." Cherry Poppin' Daddy Strut

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