Motorcycle mechanics gone lame!!!!

[TopCatGr58]

I have a good resistant 2 part clear coat on it. If I spill on it, it will wipe off without any damage but if it seeps out the cap, as it did the, gas gets up under the clear and creeps along melting the color coat and bubbles up.

Hey Greg,

Sounds like you need to leave a no paint zone around the filler cap so that the clearcoat can extend beyond the edge of the paint onto the bare metal so seal the paint away from the edge. This way there won't be an open plain paint edge that isn't covered/protected by the clear coat??

T.C.

[madmax-im]

Hey Greg,

Sounds like you need to leave a no paint zone around the filler cap so that the clearcoat can extend beyond the edge of the paint onto the bare metal so seal the paint away from the edge. This way there won't be an open plain paint edge that isn't covered/protected by the clear coat??

T.C.

That makes alot of sense...Good one!!!

[BA80]

Hey Greg,

Sounds like you need to leave a no paint zone around the filler cap so that the clearcoat can extend beyond the edge of the paint onto the bare metal so seal the paint away from the edge. This way there won't be an open plain paint edge that isn't covered/protected by the clear coat??

T.C.

Even at that the recess around the filler cap is under constant attack because of fumes and minute little spills and overflows. There are too many irregular surfaces around there to really get a good seal with the clear. I've been using plain old rattle can paint for the color and then the 2 part clear over that and it really does work well as long as I don't let a tank overflow like this happen. And, let it sit for hours, or days as I did this time.

I fixed the tank on Okie after a similar accident, I'll fix this one. I had completely forgotten that I had filled the tank before parking The Hornet in the garage. Someday MAYBE I'll learn to be more careful.

I just HATE sanding and the clear costs nearly $30 for a can with shipping.

[dondons1984]

hey Greg have you gone to autozone? our clear that we have is 12.99 for a nice size can that will do a tank. trust me I just did a friends and still have some left over.

[BA80]

Yeah, that crap is just that. I tried the high heat ceramic stuff to. No joy.

[BA80]

hey Greg have you gone to autozone? our clear that we have is 12.99 for a nice size can that will do a tank. trust me I just did a friends and still have some left over.

Jumped the gun there...........is it 2 part?

[dondons1984]

damn that sucks. let me see if I have some good clear coat in my garage. Used it on my truck and still no issues with it. does good when hit with rocks even and when it gets keyed you just buff it out reapply a new coat over it and whala looks like new

[dondons1984]

nope no luck. All I have is my can clear coat that I use.

[BA80]

Those regular rattle can clears look good until you spill gas on them and then they get sticky and melt.

BTDT.

This is the stuff I use.......http://www.66autocolor.com/SprayMax_.../spm-mix2k.htm

[DGXSER]

I to have used the Duplicolor stuff on a gas tank. Sanded out the color coat to get it nice and smooth, added final coat, cleared it, looked great. Then I got some gas on it, and all of my work peeled like a banana. If it is not a 2 part clear, it will not hold up to gas.

Now, the color paint is great, I used the Metalic stuff on the Katana I just finished up, painted the entire bike with three cans. Then I used the Duplicolor clear on most of the body panels. I used a 2 part clear over the same color paint on the tank and the two main body panels in case of gas issues.

[T99Ford]

I use Nason, PPG, and Lesonal coatings, all catalized and shot from a gun. Once cured, you could prolly line a gas tank with it...but at $60-100 a quart for clear and then extra for hardner, etc, I guess you get what you pay for. It's never a surprise to me that rattle can paint jobs don't hold up...

That said, I've heard good reviews about the SprayMax two part, but I just won't use cans on my stuff.

To the original topic: those that talk about working on old bikes being very problematic for the shop have it 100% correct. You have a few legit customers, but by and large you can easily get more than the value o the bike tied up in the repair--this is not due to evil shops, but simply the cost of trying to meet overhead and generate a fair profit. Many shops certainly have the ability to dothe work--deal with broken bolts, fouled carbs, engine issues, etc, but have met the very presen reality that there is not enough volume of people who will pay the necessary price to have these repairs done to keep the shop doors open. Most of these 'customers' are working on too small a budget, and because of price consciousness paint the shop into the corner of having to reduce margins to below profitable levels, or decide to simply work only on what pays--aka new stuff. It's no different in any other industry--automotive, equipment, etc...obsolescence costs unless you can do it yourself.

[BA80]

I know your stuff looks good T99. I just don't see much sense in buying equipment that I don't use that often.

With the Spraymax clear it holds up well if I pay attention and don't let fuel dribble down the side for several days.

[xs11jack]

Around here around here it's like Marty said. I can't believe you can't get new old parts for harleys, but they just won't touch them. I have been fortunate that I have a love for all things mechanical all my life and am able to get by so far.
Ole Jack