sandblaster

[dpotter58]

I want to buy a sandblaster but don't know anything about them. I’m interested in blasting rust from metal in preparation for painting. Not huge projects, but it’s for work so I need something durable since once I buy it, the whole organization will want to use it. Anyone knowledgeable enough to give me some advice? Feel free to PM me an email address if you want to communicate that way.

[Yard Dogg]

There are a couple routes to go. You can buy the entire sandblasting setup with the mixing pot but you're looking at some money. There are different sized pots for smaller or bigger jobs. There is a danger factor in using pressurized sandblasting pots to consider on the job. You can also go the cheap route and just buy a nozzle that picks sand directly out of the sand bag or a bucket. This is not a pressurized unit and is okay for small home projects. They will not strip rust in a hurry, but they do get the job done with more time. These are not very efficient and you will want a way to re-collect your sand. You can make a booth out of a large card board box and plastic window to save money on sand.

[Courtney]

How big a production are we talking? Perhaps if you gave me an idea of what size of projects (size of metal pieces) I could help out a bit. Also, there are better ways to clean metal than straight sand, but I understand that is a generic term for blasting these days. You can also use walnut hulls, glass beads, plastic beads, and soda. Depends on how delicate you need to be. Let me know.

[dpotter58]

pumps and equipment used in a utility business. 3 to 4 feet long, couple hundred pounds. too big for a box. I was being generic with "sand".

[Courtney]

If it's just the externals to clean up rust etc, and they're cast iron bodies, then sand or black beauty would be fine. NOT for use on gasket or sealing edges; too abrasive. First of all you need a GOOD compressor that can put out 80-100 psi at around 10cfm for good results. If you do you could use one of the small 100 lb portable units from Northern Tools or other supply place. Most sandblasters are only as good as their air supply. Do a bit of research and make sure you get one with replaceable nozzles (most do) that are a good size nozzle, not some little piddly air hose size. MORER is GOODER in hose size.

[GLoweVA]

Somebody on here mentioned in one of their threads about using a camping tent for a sandblasting booth. I thought that was a wonderful idea for retrieving the spent sand. He said he sucks it up with his shop vac and re-uses it.

JAT.

[Courtney]

Somebody on here mentioned in one of their threads about using a camping tent for a sandblasting booth. I thought that was a wonderful idea for retrieving the spent sand. He said he sucks it up with his shop vac and re-uses it.

JAT.

Be REAL careful when sandblasting in a confined area, use a 3M particulate respirator, NOT a mask. Silicosis is deadly, if you're using regular sand. Even better, have a remote airsupply, positive airpressure system like painters use. Thousands of dead miners can't be wrong.

[mack]

media

I've used silica sand, glass bead, and walnut shells. By far the most agressive was the walnut shells. I wouldn't even consider it for aluminum until you had used it a couple times. It's great for paint removal and would work on cast really quickly.

[crazy steve]

If you're planning on using this in a business environment, stay away from the Northern Tool/Harbor Freight/Cheapo units. While those are fine for 'hobby' use, if they're used on a regular basis you just won't get the life and there can be issues with replacement parts. The Eastwood units are a step up (share parts with the cheaper units, but usually have better quality guns), but even those aren't really designed for heavy use. If you're looking at daily or even weekly use, you probably should look at a commercial unit. I wouldn't waste any time on siphon-feed units, go for a pressurized pot type.

With a large blaster, if you're trying to recycle the media by using an enclosure, you really should have a full suit with an external pressurized air supply.

A blast cabinet is really the way to go, but if the items are too big for one (that you can afford), it gets messy fast....

And don't even try to skimp on compressor size; too small will reduce blasting effectiveness by up to 50%.

I've got a blast cabinet that I use and a siphon gun for stuff that won't fit in the cabinet, but I almost always have those items done by a pro. Far less time and mess, most have large cabinet-type blasters so they don't lose media (that also filters it), and in the long run, cheaper. You will lose media, contamination of the media can be an issue, and none of it is cheap....

It will also depend on the material you're blasting; 'soft' metals like brass or aluminum clean fairly easy, or if you're only trying to knock off most paint. Steel/Iron is another matter, particularly if real rusty.

[fredintoon]

pumps and equipment used in a utility business. 3 to 4 feet long, couple hundred pounds. too big for a box. I was being generic with "sand".

Hi potter,
get a bigger box. Nobody should breathe that sh1t. FWIW, we called the process "sandblasting" back in the UK too, even if using actual sand was forbidden, even in closed cabinets. We used white iron shot instead.

[Yard Dogg]

That was my genius about using a camping tent. I didn't realize anybody listens to me. LOL As far as the media you use, there should finally be a new industry standard a far as silica exposure, can you believe it took them this long? If you don't use silica sand and stick to the black sand, you should be okay to use a negative pressure HEPA filter respirator. I would still recommend asking the sales person for a MSDS so you can see if it contains silica or any other hazardous respiratory ingredients.

Oh, and if using this equipment in the workplace, make sure you train your guys up and have an official respiratory training class to protect your arse from L&I lawyers. You may need to make some phone calls and ask a safety rep. If a person gets exposed or goes down cause they can't breath in a respirator, your butt is getting sued. Also, having strong safety can award you cheaper insurance rates.

[trbig]

The real question is... How big of stuff do you plan on blasting? If it's stuff on the smaller side, you can get a regular sandblasting cabinet that has the built in gloves you slide your arms into, then there's no need for all the respirator stuff.

The very limited knowledge I have of sandblasting is that it can build up a lot of static electricity, you need a VERY good compressor to run one effectively, and if using commercially, re-using the blast media, depending on the type, such as Starblast, you'll find it less and less effective as it's recycled. As it hits the surface you're blasting, the particles get fractured and it becomes less and less abrasive, as well as contaminated with what you just blasted off.

If you'll be using one just a few times a month, it might be cost effective to just get the Harbor Freight.. or a Campbell/Hausfeld where you can just buy the ceramic tips, guns, and such at Wally World. BUT... if you want "Made in America", good parts, and live, English speaking service reps, the Barrel Blaster & Blast Master are hard to beat. http://www.barrelblaster.com/

And I don't want to talk in Email with you. You just start all that dirty talk, and it makes me uncomfortable. Plus, it makes Greg jealous.

[trbig]

I've used silica sand, glass bead, and walnut shells. By far the most agressive was the walnut shells. I wouldn't even consider it for aluminum until you had used it a couple times. It's great for paint removal and would work on cast really quickly.

I had always thought the walnut shells would be used for delicate stuff since it's softer than little rocks and glass, right? Ummm.. apparently I'm VERY wrong. lol. Saw this...


Glass Beads, 100 grit
Blast MagicTM, 80 grit
Aluminum oxide, 60 grit
Walnut Shells, 20/30 grit