New Tires

[Crusty Snippets]

Wiggle

Thanks T.C.
I already have the new fancy bearings.
Now you have given me the basic figure out how to go about it.
I have a sky hook at work to hold up the front end.
Have done this job on a Reynolds framed Norton about 35 years ago.
CB750 Honda steel balls fit nicely.
If I work on Yami on a weekend, it has to go back together by Monday.

Unkle Crusty

[trbig]

As I mentioned before.. check the wheel bearings also... or at least give the wheel a tug back and forth sideways to see if there's any slop.

[BA80]

That's right, I had a bad front bearing on one of the Arkansas trips and didn't know it. I thought it was a tire so I ordered another and discovered the loose bearing when I was balancing the new one.

It was a little scary in the turns.

[jetmechmarty]

I recently replaced my steering head bearings. I set it and forget it! Well, I guess they loosened up a bit as I rode it. A little loose and that thing got quite a wag at the bars. A tweak of the nuts with a spanner and she's all better again.

[BA80]

I had the same thing happen Marty. Except I noticed a "clunk" whenever I hit the front brake.

[DGXSER]

I actually just completed repacking the steering head bearings on my SG I just aquired. Now I also tore down the forks and cleaned them all up with new fork oil and such, also polished the forks up.

The way I did this project was to put the bike on the centerstand, then grab the fork and TT area and lift the front of the bike up with a jackstand sitting in frint of the frame behind the front wheel. I used my foot to push the jackstand under the frame cross rail while I held the front end up.

With the front end off the ground, you can pull the top tree off without removing anything from the bars and such, just sit the whole thing back on the tank, or have the tank removed, and sit it on the frame.

With the exception of polishing the fork lowers, if you have the fork oil on hand to start with and the grease for the bearings, you can easily tackle the entire project in a day. If you plan to replace the steering head bearings, I could see it going two days.

[BA80]

It only took about 2-3 hours for the bearing pack and fork seal replacement..................3 DAYS to get the stinking races out of the frame.

[motoman]

I actually just completed repacking the steering head bearings on my SG I just aquired. Now I also tore down the forks and cleaned them all up with new fork oil and such, also polished the forks up.

The way I did this project was to put the bike on the centerstand, then grab the fork and TT area and lift the front of the bike up with a jackstand sitting in frint of the frame behind the front wheel. I used my foot to push the jackstand under the frame cross rail while I held the front end up.

With the front end off the ground, you can pull the top tree off without removing anything from the bars and such, just sit the whole thing back on the tank, or have the tank removed, and sit it on the frame.

With the exception of polishing the fork lowers, if you have the fork oil on hand to start with and the grease for the bearings, you can easily tackle the entire project in a day. If you plan to replace the steering head bearings, I could see it going two days.

Wow!........rockin' back on centerstand and block under filter housing would of sufficed! If the back wheel is off, can rock it back pointin' front to the sky if you like..........just pickin' on ya' DGXSER...........

[DGXSER]

Wow!........rockin' back on centerstand and block under filter housing would of sufficed! If the back wheel is off, can rock it back pointin' front to the sky if you like..........just pickin' on ya' DGXSER...........

It's all good. But seriously, I would be afraid to put the weight on the filter cup. My luck it would crack it.

[BA80]

It's all good. But seriously, I would be afraid to put the weight on the filter cup. My luck it would crack it.

Not very likely. It's not much weight anyway when balancing on the center stand.

The bolt head is the lowest point and would be the point of contact most likely and that would transfer the stress to the case anyway. I've used it to lift the front wheel with a floor jack a lot.

[motoman]

It's all good. But seriously, I would be afraid to put the weight on the filter cup. My luck it would crack it.

Has worked well for me for a few decades now. Do the same with both bikes(ST/XS), and works well when pullin' both wheels at the same time,(rear first).

[GLoweVA]

I put my jack stand under the engine mount bolt that goes across the lower front of the engine just in front of the filter cup.
That way I can pull the filter out even if I don't have a front wheel on!
You can see it in the right corner of the pic:

[Cobia]

Heart sank to the ground on Tuesday

We put 32psi in the front tire and when I checked it on Sunday afternoon it had dropped to 28psi, still rideable though. I attributed it to settling beads and other wishfull thinking. On Tuesday I was going to ride it to work and when I checked the pressure it had dropped to 5psi, NOT rideable.
That night after work I filled it to 40psi and sprayed soapy water along both sides of rim where the bead is...... no leaks, scratch head
Then I checked the valve stem, took the cover off and cupped some soapy water between my fingers and the bubbles looked like a kids party.
OK, so I took the core out and the seals were less than acceptable. I'm surprised I didn't notice that when I reinstalled them when we mounted the tire.
You have no idea how hard it was to find the LONG type cores around here. Went to three auto parts stores and they only had the short ones
Ended going to two motorcycle shops and two bicycle shops where they didn't have the exact, double seal, core, but they each GAVE me one to try out plus one of the short ones. I Installed the most robust looking one and so far, so good. what a PITA!!!
Does anybody know if the short ones will work just as well as the long ones on these valves?
BTW - The condom comment was a metaphor, although I'm always protected. I'm a happily divorced man.

[bikerphil]

Robert, it doesn't matter, shorter valve core will be fine. Just as long as it seals correctly. I have interchanged different lengths before with no problem, just wish you would have called me before doing all that running around bro.

[motoman]

Robert, it doesn't matter, shorter valve core will be fine. Just as long as it seals correctly. I have interchanged different lengths before with no problem, just wish you would have called me before doing all that running around bro.

All serve the same purpose.........just two different styles.