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Within those wrenches there are 2 beam type for use where clickers will not work. An example would be setting/checking differential pinion bearing preload. Clicker type does not work for that.
MP
1981 XS1100H Venturer K&N Air Filter ACCT Custom Paint by Deitz Geezer Rectifier/Regulator Chacal Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines Chrome Front Rotor & Caliper Covers Stebel Nautilus Horn EBC Front Rotors Limie Accent Moves On In 2015
Actually, for setting bearing preloads what you want is a dial type wrench. Something like this: http://www.toolsource.com/drive-dial...-p-113706.html
Much easier to read, and most have a 'memory' needle to show the highest torque reached.
I've got a couple of torque wrenches that do inch-ounces for those really small fasteners...
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I had never read or heard about running a torque wrench through the range before using it to torque something.
I can only guess but does anyone know exactly why running the wrench through the entire range of torque matters?
"It seems I've been denied some critical, need to know, information".......
RIP Whiskers (Shop Boss) 25+yrs
"It doesn't hurt until you find out no one is looking"
By running it through those settings you are actually keeping it calibrated. Similar to the process of torqing a head gasket whereas you don't torque it to its final amount the first time. You start out at a lesser amount and progressively (10-20 pound increments) work it to its final setting.
Different brand wrenches have different instructions. Some of mine tell you to back all the way off when not in use. Some others say to back off part of the way when not in use.
I know some of you have run in to the newer torque method called torque angle which is measured in degrees. Most all of the GM LS engines (and others) use these specs for engine repair/assembly. They give you a starting fastener torque in foot pounds and the final torque is a number of degrees of angle. And yes, that takes more special tools.
Yet another method of fastener torque is the bolt stretch method. Most all aftermarket high performance fastener manufacturers require this method over the foot pound method. Sometimes they will give the spec in either torque and/or stretch. This is most often used for connecting rod bolts. The makers put a centering hole in the head and the thread end of the bolts. This allows you to use the tool that centers in the two holes and has a dial indicator to measure the actual strectch of the bolt. Bolt makers say it is more accurate torque this way.
You also have different torque specs for the same fastener dependant on which type of thread lubricant that is used. Engine oil has a different torque spec than moly grease for the same bolt. Go figure.
MP
1981 XS1100H Venturer K&N Air Filter ACCT Custom Paint by Deitz Geezer Rectifier/Regulator Chacal Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines Chrome Front Rotor & Caliper Covers Stebel Nautilus Horn EBC Front Rotors Limie Accent Moves On In 2015
I hunted around the web yesterday and the answer to the question of how to leave a torque wrench seems to spawn the "Whats the best tire" sort of debate.
Good information here. And I am not going to waste a chance to learn something.
Thanks everyone.
RIP Whiskers (Shop Boss) 25+yrs
"It doesn't hurt until you find out no one is looking"
Once while torquing the head bolts on my '55 Nash flat head with my calibrated elbow, my Grand Dad said, "Just tighten the first bolt till it breaks, then don't tighten the rest so much." I'm fairly sure he was joking. That was '64 and I had not even seen a torque wrench. That old Nash went on for another two years.
Last edited by je2wheeler; 10-23-2012, 09:13 PM.
Reason: spelling
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Every torque wrench I ever had came with a calibration certificate looking paper and the instructions on care and use. It specified different things for different manufacturers. Here is a photo of the only instructions I have on hand and this was from a chinese cheapie I bought to tighten my clutch star nuts which ended up breaking the bolts. Do you think maybe I should have read them before using it. I now do
2-79 XS1100 SF 2-78 XS1100 E Best bike Ever 80 XS 1100 SG Big bore kit but not fully running yet.
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Having watched some novice mechanics use a clicker wrench at a low setting, it should be mentioned, for those who do not have a lot of experience with these wrenches, that the "click", at low torque settings, is VERY subtle. It is easy to miss, if you have only used it at higher settings before.
Practice on a robust bolt first, to get the feel. FWIW CZ
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