New member with a "new" '79 Special and a to-do list

[DouglasVB]

Hello! I just picked up a '79 Special with a banana seat (the real selling point) yesterday. The bike has about 24k miles on it and was sitting off and on over the last two decades. This is my second Yamaha XS. I also have an '80 XS850 that I have been riding for a year. My motivation to buy an XS1100 was for the extra cylinder. I'm hoping the extra 16 hp (in stock configuration, more on that later) is worth the increased weight and fuel burn. The XS850 has been one of the most fun bikes I've owned and I am looking forward to my new XS1100 to be even more fun. Also did I mention that my girlfriend likes the red color of the XS1100 and the banana seat? Oh, and she doesn't know that I bought it yet. ;-)

So far I have found the following that needs to be fixed:

• A leaking seal around the cam chain tensioner. Initially I thought it was a covered over port for a mechanical tachometer like what the XS850 uses. I now know otherwise.
  Very old tires. They still have the three digit date codes!
  Shot fork seals and slightly shorter forks than the XS850 has.
  Badly dragging rear brake and somewhat dragging front brakes. Previous owner indicated (with paperwork) that brake work was done in the last five or so years.
  Spark plug boots that have electrical tape wrapped around because they are cracked.
  Cracked carb boots (doesn't look like the cracks penetrate. I'll probably just coat them in high temp sealant).
  Right side turn signals non-functional (left works!).
  Leaking fuel cocks on gas tank and an original octopus.
  Seal around fuel tank filler port is completely shot.
  Touch of surface rust on rear shocks
  Some oxidization of engine covers/case from sitting in a damp environment for what the PO says was only 6 months.
  Fuel idiot light and high beam bulb both burned out or non-functional.
  Someone appears to have used a sharpie on the tank and plastic side cover badges in a botched attempt to black out the gold lettering.

On the other hand, it has decent original paint, all the original decals and emblems, and a brand new battery.

I am getting ready to put in some orders for all of the parts I need to get the bike up to snuff and on the road ASAP. You see, my girlfriend doesn't know I bought the bike. It was for sale for several weeks on Craigslist but I couldn't get a truck to go pick it up (out of state). My girlfriend thinks the bike is sold and gone to someone else. She also happens to be out of town through the 4th of September. I want to get the bike into a decent enough condition to be able to surprise her with a ride on it. She doesn't suspect a thing yet. Oh, and her dad doesn't know that she has been riding motorcycles with me. Even though she's 29, she is still his little girl.

As I go to order the parts, is there anything I should be aware of or are there any parts I should go ahead and purchase now? I have been caught on other bikes waiting multiple weeks for "surprise" parts and would prefer to not have that happen this time around. My parts list is below:

• Shop manual -- Amazon has a Clymer manual that is the right price.
  Fork seals and dust caps -- going to grab something off of ebay. Any brands I should avoid or try to get?
  Head cover gasket -- 2H7-11193-10-00 -- this is so I can check the timing chain tension and the valve clearance
  Spark plugs -- was thinking of dropping in some Iridium plugs of this model number: BPR6EIX
  Air filter -- K&N YA-1400 because I wasn't seeing any normal filters that I could get quickly. Will I have to do a bunch of rejetting or is it a drop-in?
  Oil filter -- FRAM CH6002 because it is on Amazon Prime
  Cam chain tensioner gasket -- 2H7-12213-10-00
  Petcock kits -- K&L Supply Fuel Petcock Repair Kit 18-5100 I am not sure how many I need to buy. Looks like I will need two to do both fuel tank cocks plus the vacuum petcock in the middle of the octopus.
  Gas tank seal -- no idea on the part number. Any thoughts?
  Tires -- the bike currently has a 100/90-19 Challenger on the front and 130/90H16 MT58 Pirelli Phantom on the back. Not sure what I should get. The tire threads on here have a LOOOOOT of different opinions and sizes. I live in Oregon where it rains a lot in the fall, winter, spring, and summer. Not planning on riding in the rain but the roads can be wet. I also want something that will be long-lived and will not burn out too easily when I abuse the engine and transmission.

I am not hung up on any of the parts I have selected by any means. Please tell me if there is a better option, etc.

Looking forward, I want to try fuel injecting this bike. For over a year now I've been working on a fuel injection conversion project for a Honda PC800 that is nearing completion. Based on what I saw on Stan's XJ1100 fuel injection project (http://users.hal-pc.org/~dhutch/), it looks like it shouldn't be all that difficult to fuel inject an XS1100. Certainly the efficiency gains look tempting. The real reason though is that I want more power/performance/speed/magic. My XS850 had some carb rejetting done to it before I purchased the bike. The thing takes off like a rocket ship and beats modern CBR650RRs in drag contests. It's propensity for wheelies is also greatly appreciated. I want more of that with the XS1100. I am hoping that putting on fuel injection and a proper engine mapping will give me that ability. I want this bike to look like a cruiser to a normal crotch rocket rider but be able to blow an unsuspecting sport bike out of the water. The XS850 is almost there. I think the XS1100 can easily do it for the small town in which I live.

In the future I also want to put SS lines on the brakes, fatter grips on the bars (I have big hands), air horns, maybe some taller bars, hotter ignition system, LED lights, progressive front shocks and upgraded rear shocks, and less restricted exhaust pipes.

Anyway, hello everyone! I hope you don't mind me asking a bunch of n00b questions over the next few days as I sort this bike out.

Cheers!

Douglas

[DouglasVB]

Other things I'm curious about:

• Are fork braces worth it and does TKAT (http://www.tkat.com/forkbrace.html) still make the preferred fork brace?
  What is the preferred bolt-on-no-modifications oil cooler that people are using? It looks like the cooler system off of an XS850 would be a direct fit...
  It appears there is no tool kit with this bike. Are there any handy gauges that I can make myself to make sure I have the correct amount of oil in the engine, middle, and final drives?

[natemoen]

Member catatonicbug has the fsm for download on his personal website, fund a post from him and the link is in his signature.

Valve cover doesn't need a gasket, you can use RTV gasketmaker.

If you are pulling the cct then just swap over to an auto cct. The stock cct is notoriously weak and there has even been at least 2 people in the last couple weeks that have ended up with bent valves because of the crappy stock tensioner.

Stay away from the irudium plug until you get the bike running well and clean. They foul out far to easy to put them in a new to you bike. If you want to put them in later once you get things jetted and set up well then you can.

No jetting changes needed for the k&n in the airbox.

[WMarshy]

Wow, lots to talk about. First, welcome to the forum and welcome to the XS11. Your list is long and may take some time to get comments on all of your questions. Your best bet for the tech stuff is to use the search tool in the forum since your are short on time. I'll give you a couuple quick tips though.

Checking valve timing is good maintenance practice. If the gasket doesnt get destroyed when you remove the cover then reuse it. Ive reused mine 3 times and no leaks, you can also use gasket maker in place of the gasket.

Get rid of the stock cam chain tensioner and get one from a VMax (any year), its bolt in andso a must. Browse the modification area of the main forum for more tensionser that work.

Done waste your money buying a manual, member CatitonicBug has one your can download from his web site, follow the link in his signature.

The K&N air filter is a good replacement for the original, no jetting is needed if the rest of the bike is stock. If you go with pods then jetting becomes an issue. Check the maintenance section of the main forum page for carb cleaning tips and air box disassembly.

Fork seal are specific for the model of your bike (standard vs special). Make sure you get the right ones or they wont last long.

Other note worthy tip is these bikes have been know to have some clutch slip. New HD clutch springs usually clear up the issue but if you want to replace the friction plates then www.partsnmore.com has a set for like $40. If you buy new HD springs then Barnett are recommended. Again, see the main forum page to find tutorial on working on the clutch
..

New plugs are a good idea but if your wires are shot then the expensive plugs are a waste. The coils have the wires molded into them so you cant just go and replace them. If you need to replace them then you have to do "surgery". Good luck and enjoy!

Also, do some searching about fixes for your brakes, you usually need to fully disassemble them and clean them. Its usually the square o-ring on the caliper piston sticking. The piston corrodes behind the o-ring and fores it out of its grove... sounds like you have a long list of laundry to do.

[DouglasVB]

Thanks for the replies!

I've got a bunch of parts on the way. Next weekend should be quite busy getting everything together

One thing I'm having trouble with: the seal in the gas cap. Does anyone know where I might source one? I don't need the whole gas cap assembly... just the seal.

[DGXSER]

HERE is a thread I put together on how to replace that seal and an option for it. Some folks have stated they had problems with that radiator cap seal over time. I think there is a link in the thread to a factory replacement as well.

[natemoen]

WWW.mikesxs.net sells a replacement cap seal.

[jetmechmarty]

2M0-24641-00-00 GASKET,CAP 1

The link above is for an OEM fuel cap gasket. It should last about 25 years or so. I haven't tried the Mike's XS seal, but my experience with their other rubber parts tells me it might last all season.

[Yard Dogg]

• A leaking seal around the cam chain tensioner. Initially I thought it was a covered over port for a mechanical tachometer like what the XS850 uses. I now know otherwise.
  Very old tires. They still have the three digit date codes!
  Shot fork seals and slightly shorter forks than the XS850 has.
  Badly dragging rear brake and somewhat dragging front brakes. Previous owner indicated (with paperwork) that brake work was done in the last five or so years.
  Spark plug boots that have electrical tape wrapped around because they are cracked.
  Cracked carb boots (doesn't look like the cracks penetrate. I'll probably just coat them in high temp sealant).
  Right side turn signals non-functional (left works!).
  Leaking fuel cocks on gas tank and an original octopus.
  Seal around fuel tank filler port is completely shot.
  Touch of surface rust on rear shocks
  Some oxidization of engine covers/case from sitting in a damp environment for what the PO says was only 6 months.
  Fuel idiot light and high beam bulb both burned out or non-functional.
  Someone appears to have used a sharpie on the tank and plastic side cover badges in a botched attempt to black out the gold lettering.

• Shop manual -- Amazon has a Clymer manual that is the right price.
  Fork seals and dust caps -- going to grab something off of ebay. Any brands I should avoid or try to get?
  Head cover gasket -- 2H7-11193-10-00 -- this is so I can check the timing chain tension and the valve clearance
  Spark plugs -- was thinking of dropping in some Iridium plugs of this model number: BPR6EIX
  Air filter -- K&N YA-1400 because I wasn't seeing any normal filters that I could get quickly. Will I have to do a bunch of rejetting or is it a drop-in?
  Oil filter -- FRAM CH6002 because it is on Amazon Prime
  Cam chain tensioner gasket -- 2H7-12213-10-00
  Petcock kits -- K&L Supply Fuel Petcock Repair Kit 18-5100 I am not sure how many I need to buy. Looks like I will need two to do both fuel tank cocks plus the vacuum petcock in the middle of the octopus.
  Gas tank seal -- no idea on the part number. Any thoughts?
  Tires -- the bike currently has a 100/90-19 Challenger on the front and 130/90H16 MT58 Pirelli Phantom on the back. Not sure what I should get. The tire threads on here have a LOOOOOT of different opinions and sizes. I live in Oregon where it rains a lot in the fall, winter, spring, and summer. Not planning on riding in the rain but the roads can be wet. I also want something that will be long-lived and will not burn out too easily when I abuse the engine and transmission.

Douglas

Cam chain tensioner- just make sure you don't drop the chain or it could slip a tooth.
Shot fork seals- after you replace the seals, the forks may be longer again. No special tools required.
Dragging brakes-Remove caliper pistons with compressed air, be careful! Then clean with smooth emery cloth.
Spark plug boots-http://www.xs11.com/xs11-info/tech-tips/repairs/battery---electrical/91-new-wires-in-old-coils.html
Leaking fuel cocks- The octi can be removed, just remember to shut your fuel off if sitting for a few hours. Gasket kits can be purchased for both. I can post websites if you need. Yamaha website and bikebandit are a few.
Turn signals-Clean your bulb sockets, will fix that.

Shop manual-http://www.ringler.us/family/mybike.html

You may have to copy and paste the links I added, don't know why.

[Yard Dogg]

I was gonna mention a Virago gas cap, but it won't fit an XS, I was gonna mention clutch springs that I've used, but for some reason the part I've used doesn't list for your 79'. Is there a difference in clutch springs for a 79' versus an 80'? Anyway, doesn't seem I can delete this.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey there Doug,

Click on the members list button in the long blue bar at the top of this page, select "C", and then scroll till you find Catatonic Bug's name, click to follow to his profile and then his website/pages for the manuals....it could be difficult to find one of his posts in the threads.

You posted and then you posted that you already have a bunch of parts coming?? I know you're in a hurry to get the bike up and running, but you may have ordered parts that you may or may not need. You might want to list what you've already ordered for us to review and comment on. We don't like to see folks waste $$ on stuff that isn't really needed.

EFI is a big ticket item good luck!

Would highly recommend you just replace the old OEM coils with new Hi Output coils/wires/caps....ie. DynaTech or Accel, don't bother with the generic ones on MikesXS.net once you read their description...no warranty!
And you should be able to use these coils with an EFI system later. Get the 3 ohm style and just bypass the ballast resistor.

Would suggest reading the recent thread on oil filters, construction, etc..

I acquired the MikesXS gas cap seal, it did actually hold up for many years, but I think OEM isn't much more $.

WHY do you think you need an oil cooler, especially in the location/climate you're in? Usually only folks with full touring gear, fairing, lowers, or living in both extreme hot climates and severe stop and go traffic feel they need a cooler. Yes, the 850 unit will fit, takes the same filter and filter cup, so it will bolt up just fine providing you have all of the hardware.

Yes, TKAT still sells them, visit his website for ordering info...see the ad in the For Sale forum, parts/services by members sticky thread. If you are wanting the best possible handling capability, it is worth it.

As the sticky thread at the top of this forum suggests, take some time to read thru and review ALL of the tech tips..Maintenance, repairs, mods, misc, etc., can save you some possible aggravation and engine damage and $$. Info on making your own middle/final gear dip sticks is in there, as well as about the intake boots/cracks.

Many of us find the Octopus a real PITA and just remove it from the system, makes plumbing much cleaner and easier. YMMV

A properly tuned stock XS11 can woop up on most ~600 crotch rockets in street light drags, but will loose to total top end speed eventually! Our bikes are stronger and quicker than an 850, but hard to say how much of a difference it'll be for you?

A recent thread by Trbig regarding Dunlop Elite III's, has good information and suggestions about an alternative all around good quality tire that is ~1/3 the cost and with almost the same mileage durability. While you're changing the rear tire, address the driveshaft splines lubrication as well as the rear wheel hub splines. Again, info in tech tips in the FORUMS.

Welcome, have fun, and we like to see photos of projects...how to post them is in the HOW TO forum.

T.C.

[DouglasVB]

Hi everyone! Sorry for the long delay. Work and moving into a new shop space have been keeping me busy. The good news is that I no longer have to worry about it raining on my bikes while I work on them

Parts that I need to get a part number for or further advice from the forum:

• The rubber grommet that cushions the front mount point for the rear brake assembly (close to #1 on microfiche slide D12 http://www.rctvonline.net/~xs11/d12.gif it slips on the stud on the inside of the rear suspension arm.
  Galfer part number to get a braided stainless steel line made for the rear brake assembly. It looks to be about 20 inches long from the center of one banjo to the center of the other. I measured it at a 10 degree angle on the rear banjo and it appears to be the same as the front.
  Galfer part number for front brake stainless steel kit (I believe it should be D611-3 based on a short phone conversation with Galfer but want to double-check. Would prefer to keep single line from reservoir to the spliter on the forks).
  Cam shaft plugs (they look pretty hard but probably are reusable. what do all of my new XS11 forum friends think?)

Parts that I have purchased and either received or will receive shortly:

• Auto cam chain tensioner (set of two so I have a spare?) off of a 1985 V-Max 1200 with 28k miles on it from EBay (already arrived).
  Fork seals from GeorgeFix's Motorcycle Parts (not here yet).
  Pirelli Sport Demon Sport Touring tires (front 100/90-19, rear 130-90-16) from Motorcycle Superstore (already arrived, will have them mounted and balanced tomorrow).
  FRAM CH6002 oil filter from Amazon (already arrived).
  K&N YA-1400 air filter from Amazon (already arrived).
  K&L brake caliber rebuild kit 32-1605 from an amazon store (I bought two) (not here yet).
  K&L fuel petcock rebuild kit 18-5100 from an amazon store (I bought two of them) (not here yet).
  K&L brake caliper rebuild kit 32-1250 from an amazon store (not here yet).
  K&L master cylinder rebuild kit 32-1085 from an amazon store (not here yet).
  K&L master cylinder rebuild kit 32-4033 from an amazon store (not here yet).
  head cover gasket 2h7-12213-10-00 from Boats.net (not shipped yet, they are slow but I've done business with them before and have always been satisfied).
  cam chain tensioner gasket 2H7-11193-10-00 from Boats.net (not shipped yet).
  gas cap seal 2M0-24641-00-00 from Boats.net
  Progressive front springs 11-1110 20.5" from an amazon store (arrived).

Did I woefully misorder anything?

Parts that I still should buy but haven't yet:

• Blade fuse block (should order it from the forum moderator)
  Fork brace (I have a quote from Tkat. Just need to write a check and mail it out)
  Shims that I will undoubtedly need when I check the valve clearance

Something else that I am interested in for the future:

• I've seen some info searching through the forum about putting a kick start on the bike. Mine has the shaft coming out of the crank case and a rubber cap over the top of it. It looks like some of the XS bikes didn't come with the internal parts necessary and that quite a few things would need to be added to the crank case. The starter on my bike works VERY well but once in a while I would like the option of kicking in to remember why the invention of the starter motor was so important to the world of motorcycles.

The progress on getting the bike in running order so far is draining all the fluids, removing front and rear wheels, and getting parts staged to start swapping in. Tomorrow I plan to have the new tires mounted, replace the fluids, lube the spline on the final drive shaft, and if time permits, pull the front forks. Over the weekend I plan to rebuild the brakes and petcocks, go through the electricals, rebuild the forks, reinstall the wheels, and if by some miracle the seals come, install the auto cam chain tensioner per the instructions on this forum. I will also check the valve clearances and order shims as necessary after mixing and matching with existing shims.

Unless the magical parts fairy delivers things before the holiday weekend, it looks like I won't be finishing this quite on time but now that I have a real shop space and am not doing this inside my apartment (yes, I've rebuilt a few bikes in my living room over the last few years) it will be much easier to hide from my girlfriend what I am up to until it is ready.

Aside from everything that I have listed or I am asking questions about, is there anything else that I should be checking/replacing/refreshing? The battery is a month old, btw.

Thanks!!!

[DouglasVB]

Oh! I also need new brake pads. The front pads were worn at funny angles (mis-aligned forks/rotors/wheel?). The back set looks fine but since I'm this far in, I might as well spend the money on replacing them too. Are there any preferred brands?

[WMarshy]

All your parts look fine, just a few things to note though... fork seals are different for standard model vice the specials. Sorry, I dont have the correct part number for the special seals but maybe someone will chime in...

Read up on how to swap the cam chain tensioner. Relatively simple thing but can have severe consequences if done improperly.

The specials have a funky angled front brake pad and different part number from the standards. Make sure you research a little and order the right ones.

Your bike has a kick its stored under the battery box with a wing nut. People like to take a XS750/850 kick arm and put it on the 11 because the one from the 11 doesnt have a pivot to fold in...

Make sure to take before and after pictures and post them!

[Yard Dogg]

When you replace the cam chain tensioner: Take off your valve cover, loosen the bolts to your cam chain tensioner, but do not remove yet. Make sure you have a wedge that will slide down the chain from the top in between the chain and the cylinder head to keep it tight as you pull out the tensioner. If you drop the chain it may slip off the crank sprocket down in the engine case which could cause severe headache. Good luck.