New guy, first bike.

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • sparkfly88
    replied
    What ya gonna do with the hard case that was on the rack?

    :-)


    I kinda wish I got mine in a good condition like that. But, fighting this battle is half the fun right?

    Leave a comment:


  • DGXSER
    replied
    As a complete newb at painting. I can tell you it can be VERY rewarding if it comes out well. And it will be frustrating when you scew it up....perhaps a couple times....on your way to getting it right. Good news is, if you mess it up, you can always sand it back off....again....and again.

    Also, do yourself a big favor and hang a piece of scrap paper on the wall to spray and test gun adjustment before you paint the finished product. DAMHIKIJK.

    But really, if you have a compressor and the interest, do it. Just do not expect it to turn out show quality, and you will not be disappointed.

    Leave a comment:


  • Tat2demon
    replied
    Spring time update- I didn't do a damned thing! Money didn't work out the way I had planned so unfortunately I wasn't able to do anything I had planned. However, as I posted in another thread looking for advice, I have lots of stuff coming for it this week.

    Clutch Springs - $20
    TC Bros Forward Controls, linkage and a spare set of stock foot controls that I can cut apart
    Exhaust Gaskets
    Kuryakyn Iso Grips with throttle boss
    Kuryakyn Bar End Mirror
    Master Cylinder Boot
    Fork Seals and Dust Covers
    Stainless Brake Lines
    HID Setup

    Hopefully my seat will be going to an upholster this week and I may try my hand at painting.

    Leave a comment:


  • Tat2demon
    replied
    Thats all the PO. Ill be repainting it this winter. All the covers were pretty good when I got it. I do hit them every couple weeks with some polishing wad though.

    Leave a comment:


  • DGXSER
    replied
    Very cool. Nice paint scheme, and good job polishing covers. I will never be patient enough to do that.

    Leave a comment:


  • Tat2demon
    replied
    Finally got one with me on it. Didn't realize how small the bike looks.

    Leave a comment:


  • Tat2demon
    replied
    A few weeks back I got a new fuse block from Tkat. I didnt have any reason to swap it out right away so its been shelved.

    Yesterday I hopped on to head to work and didnt have a headlight or guage lights. Popped the fuse cover and one of the ears on the light fuse was gone. I jamed the fuse in there and it worked good enough to get to work.

    Tonight I finally got around to swapping out the blocks.

    While taking off the old wires, at least one ear snapped off of each fuse. After getting all the wires out here is the old block. The area behind the light fuse was melted.




    After about 45 minutes of work -




    Leave a comment:


  • Tat2demon
    replied
    Originally posted by jwhughes3
    Dont drink that shot!

    John
    Aww. There ya go ruining my nights plans.

    Leave a comment:


  • Tat2demon
    replied
    A very good idea but one thats going to wait until this winter. Ill be tearing every piece apart and will do a complete solvent clean on it then.

    Leave a comment:


  • CaptonZap
    replied
    Originally posted by Tat2demon
    Forgot to add, when I drained the final drive I only got about a shotglass worth green/grey fluid out of it. The mid was full and looked nice and clean. Replaced both with Royal Purple 75-140.
    Just as a matter of really getting all the old "stuff" out of the final drive, you should drain it one more time, after going on a long hard ride, and that will flush the accumalated grime out. I know, with the price of Royal Purple, that you don't want to hear that, but it would be a good idea.
    I drain the old oil out, put in a full load of detergent oil, any weight, put it on the center stand, start it up, put it in 5th gear, and run it at 2 to 3 thousand RPM till the motor gets hot. Then drain it out, let it set with the plug out for a few hours, then fill with oil of choice.
    The detergent oil will clean most of the crud out.
    A better idea is to remove the final drive, take the plastic cover off, take the ring gear and carrier out, solvent wash all the crud out, and re-install, with fresh moly grease on the splines, refill, and you are good to go. You can inspect the wear pattern on the gears that way, and get an idea of how much wear is on the gears. CBug has a final drive manual on his site, which gives the torque values and procedure on the operation. http://www.ringler.us/xs1100/ShaftDriveManual.pdf CZ

    Leave a comment:


  • jwhughes3
    replied
    Dont drink that shot!

    John

    Leave a comment:


  • Tat2demon
    replied
    Forgot to add, when I drained the final drive I only got about a shotglass worth green/grey fluid out of it. The mid was full and looked nice and clean. Replaced both with Royal Purple 75-140.

    Leave a comment:


  • Tat2demon
    replied
    Spent last night and a bit today getting the new tires put on. Was a pain but got the learning part out of the way. Should go a lot better next time.

    Diskman01 stopped by as I was putting it all together and we took it out for a test drive. They feel so much different than the old ones. My old rear was so worn it could stand by itself. Its going to take a few days to get use to it.

    Leave a comment:


  • Tat2demon
    replied
    I think mharrington is right. Pretty sure it is a Henry Abe air cleaner but this one is fairly beat up. Will probably end up in the trash.

    Leave a comment:


  • Tat2demon
    replied
    Well if I can figure out exactly what they are and what they go to Ill be selling them. Need to try to get some money back.

    Leave a comment:

Working...