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  • Tank Dent Removal

    I have this tank and I want to refurbish it for my SF because it's really not in bad shape. It has a dent in the side right where the badge mounts so I can't just fill it. I'm not a very good body man so I was hoping someone could help me figure out how to pop this out.

    Greg

    Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”

    ― Albert Einstein

    80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.

    The list changes.

  • #2
    Drill a hole

    Then use a slide hammer.

    Then fill with lead (body lead, not the other kind you just get a leaky tank that way)

    John
    John is in an anonymous city with an Alamo (N29.519227,W-98.678980)

    Go ahead, click on the bikes - you know you want to...the electrons are ready.
    '81 XS1100H - "Enterprise"
    Bob Jones Custom Navy bike: Tkat brace, EBC floating rotors & SS lines, ROX pivot risers, Geezer rectifier, new 3H3 engine

    "Not all treasure is silver and gold"

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    • #3
      Greg, how deep is the dent? And I take it you want to keep the badge mount?

      That dent doen't look all that deep, so I'd just prep it and fill it with bondo. If the badge mount is pushed in, pry that out to where it's supposed to be and fill behind it. Put a sacrificial screw in the hole so you don't foul the threads, after the body work is mostly done remove it.

      For prep, I'd recommend sandblasting the area; that will remove all the paint and leave a rough enough surface for the plastic to stick well...
      Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

      '78E original owner - resto project
      '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
      '82 XJ rebuild project
      '80SG restified, red SOLD
      '79F parts...
      '81H more parts...

      Other current bikes:
      '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
      '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
      '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
      Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
      Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

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      • #4
        That's probably what I'll end up doing Steve, it's not deep at all. The pic shows it pretty well.

        I've heard some about using dry ice to remove small dents like this. Any thoughts on that?
        Greg

        Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”

        ― Albert Einstein

        80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.

        The list changes.

        Comment


        • #5
          Dry ice works for removing dents like hail dents; ones that are relatively small/shallow. I don't think you'd have much luck here.

          One other thing you could try... The tank on the SG I rebuilt/sold last year was worse than yours, I removed the worst of the dents by working in through the fill opening. I had a bent piece of 1" steel rod (with about a 8" 'hook' on the end) that I stuck inside the tank against the dent then whacked right above the fill opening towards the dent. That knocked most of the dents out and helped restore the tank contours.

          The big thing with plastic is it doesn't like shock/flexing when it's too thick. So that's why there's a big caution against that when using it; do that on a car door/hood/deck lid and it will fall off. But a bike tank (with it's rounded contours) has near-zero flex, and if you have a good rough surface for it to stick to, no problem. I've filled some deep tank dents and never had any problems...
          Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

          '78E original owner - resto project
          '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
          '82 XJ rebuild project
          '80SG restified, red SOLD
          '79F parts...
          '81H more parts...

          Other current bikes:
          '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
          '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
          '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
          Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
          Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

          Comment


          • #6
            Stud welder and a slide hammer.
            Nathan
            KD9ARL

            μολὼν λαβέ

            1978 XS1100E
            K&N Filter
            #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
            OEM Exhaust
            ATK Fork Brace
            LED Dash lights
            Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

            Green Monster Coils
            SS Brake Lines
            Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

            In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

            Theodore Roosevelt

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            • #7
              Originally posted by natemoen View Post
              Stud welder and a slide hammer.
              +1........that will get the worst of it out, and using less filler will be less apt to pop out. Most body shops have the gun and rivets. Bet for a few bucks and five minutes a bodyshop and stud-gun will pop the worst of that out.
              81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.

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              • #8
                I'd personally be reluctant to use a welded stud and slide hammer on these tanks; Yamaha used an awfully thin 'high strength' metal for these and I can see you tearing a hole in the tank pretty easily.

                I'd rather have thick bondo than try to fix a hole....
                Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

                '78E original owner - resto project
                '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
                '82 XJ rebuild project
                '80SG restified, red SOLD
                '79F parts...
                '81H more parts...

                Other current bikes:
                '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
                '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
                '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
                Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
                Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

                Comment


                • #9
                  Man

                  The guy gives you the answer and you got better ideas. Stud welder works great, especially on thin metal like those cars from Korea.... Take it to a body shop and ask them what they think...
                  You can't stay young forever, but you can be immature for the rest of your life...

                  '78E "Pathfinder" Show bike...
                  Lovingly restored by Dave Delzell
                  Drilled airbox
                  Tkat fork brace
                  Hardly mufflers
                  late model carbs
                  Newer style fuses
                  Oil pressure guage
                  Custom security system
                  Stainless braid brake lines

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I've heard of using a bike tire tube to fix dents. Place the uninflated tube in the tank and position it where it will push the dent out. Fill it with air, then deflate and repeat. I've never tried it, but a guy I was talking to swore by it, thought I'd pass on the suggestion anyway.
                    1979 XS1100

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      mine had a dent in the same spot but it was alot larger. i cut out the entire dent with a cutoff wheel massaged the dent out of the peice and weled it back in the finished the body work with a thin coat filler then coated the inside of the tank. turned out nice.
                      1982 xj 1100
                      "The Ape"
                      http://youtu.be/AiQ8CqclHr4

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        The dry ice idea is good, it is usually used on smaller dents because it is hard to get it into contact with a larger area. I would try it, all you would be out is a piece of dry ice if it does not work. I have also seen body shop guys use a C02 fire extinquisher. What it spits out is actually dry ice if you get it close enough. Just get it right close to the dent and spray a healthy layer of the dry ice on the dent. It helps if you have had the tank out in the sun for a while so the rest of it is nice and hot.

                        If it should not work you have done no more damage to the tank and can try another method.
                        The Old Tamer
                        _________________________
                        1979 XS1100SF (The Fire Dragon)
                        1982 650 Maxim (The Little Dragon)
                        another '82 650 Maxim (Parts Dragon)
                        1981 XS1100SH (The Black Dragon)

                        If there are more than three bolts holding it on there, it is most likely a very important part!

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Those DentWizard folks have tools to get in there and massage it out. It might be an inexpensive option.
                          Marty (in Mississippi)
                          XS1100SG
                          XS650SK
                          XS650SH
                          XS650G
                          XS6502F
                          XS650E

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