Harbor Freight Trailer purchase

[neJeff]

Got a possible good deal going on a used Harbor Freight, believe its the 1200 lb foldable model that been bolted solid. Its got extra tire, tool box, plywood floor & stake sides. Outfitted with one wheel chock (I think its called). I know its been on several 300 mile + trips and its about 3 years old. He was trailering a 95' 883 and a newer 250 Rebel. I've read pros/cons on it but the cons are usually from non-users, Anyone have good/bad experiences with it? I plan on changing out the bearings just as a precaution and possibly welding it solid instead of the bolts as I don't need a folding feature. Anyone use this with a xs1100? Any thoughts are appreciated!

[JasonRedbeard]

I used to pull my ex's Vulcan Classic on one. It was a bit flimsy with just bolts, but once I welded it in a couple of places and attached a folding ramp it was a pretty decent little trailer. I only made a couple of long-distance trips with it but didn't have any problems. I went with a diamondplate steel deck instead of plywood though.

[jwhughes3]

They get good reviews on the HD Forum

I have not had experience with the folding trailer, but on those utilities in general you want the 12" tires at a minimum and count on not running over 60 mph for any length of time (like just to pass)- even with the larger 14-15" Load Range E trailer tires they can get too hot at prolonged highway speeds in the 70-80 range. DAMHIKIJK

I read you need to use a good quality grease even when new as what they pack from China is no good - and check every year as the hubs have a rusting issue.

It should work for an XS just fine if all those HD riders with heavier bikes use it, right?

Good Luck!

John

[scoot]

I have this trailer. I welded all the bolted parts. Added a crossbar in the forward a-frame for a trailer jack and spare tire support. I have way overloaded this thing a few times, no issues. I did weld on a crossbar about a foot back from the front of the deck that sticks out about ten inches either side with eye bolts as additional anchor points for bike tie downs. Also tend to block all sides of both bike tires with 2x4 blocks and screws or nails to prevent load shift.

When you torque down the new wheel bearings remember to back off the nut a bit to keep 'em from binding. Be sure the stake sides are bolted to the stake pockets if you use the stake sides for tie points, even if you just are covering a load.

scoot

[neJeff]

I have not had experience with the folding trailer, but on those utilities in general you want the 12" tires at a minimum and count on not running over 60 mph for any length of time (like just to pass)- even with the larger 14-15" Load Range E trailer tires they can get too hot at prolonged highway speeds in the 70-80 range. DAMHIKIJK

I read you need to use a good quality grease even when new as what they pack from China is no good - and check every year as the hubs have a rusting issue.

It should work for an XS just fine if all those HD riders with heavier bikes use it, right?

Good Luck!

John

Yeah, I have heard about the grease and have seen enough trailers on the side of road to make sure and double check the bearings. If they haven't already been changed it's time for Timken anyways. I know they are 12" tires which is okay.

[neJeff]

I have this trailer. I welded all the bolted parts. Added a crossbar in the forward a-frame for a trailer jack and spare tire support. I have way overloaded this thing a few times, no issues. I did weld on a crossbar about a foot back from the front of the deck that sticks out about ten inches either side with eye bolts as additional anchor points for bike tie downs. Also tend to block all sides of both bike tires with 2x4 blocks and screws or nails to prevent load shift.

When you torque down the new wheel bearings remember to back off the nut a bit to keep 'em from binding. Be sure the stake sides are bolted to the stake pockets if you use the stake sides for tie points, even if you just are covering a load.

scoot

Good info. I'm probably going to weld it or have it welded out too. I want expanded deck but for now the wood is going to have to do. I made the deal and will get it this weekend!

[tom clisham]

Small wheels

After I burned up trailer wheel bearings in the Middle of Yellowstone Pk 40 years ago, a trailer mechanic told me that wheels under 14 in are going to burn up if you run em at speed for any distance.

After the repair in Sheridan Wyoming, they burned again b4 leaving Wyoming.
Put a bigger axle with bigger wheels on then.
The man said it's not a question of IF they'll burn, just when & where!

[fredintoon]

It's amazing what you can get away with.

After I burned up trailer wheel bearings in the Middle of Yellowstone Pk 40 years ago, a trailer mechanic told me that wheels under 14 in are going to burn up if you run em at speed for any distance. - - -

Hi Tom,
how fast and how far would that be?
I have a ~30 year old Canadian Tire trailer that began life as a boat trailer and has since morphed through several stages into a combo utility/sidecar rig hauler.
All on it's little 8" donut wheels.
Things to do:-
Fit bearing buddies to the hubs and re-pack them before every long trip.
Check the tire load ratings.
I had to swap the 4" wide stock tires to 5.6" x 6 ply tires to carry the sidecar rig as the XS11 half sits directly over the leftside wheel.
Also had to add two leaves to the leftside road spring so the trailer's left side didn't sag down under the asymmetric load.
Always carry a good spare, you'll be sorry if you don't.
The trailer has hauled the sidecar rig on a few ~500 mile journeys and has never let me down yet.
OK, I went with what I had. Yes, a trailer with bigger wheels that's not been cobbled together by ongoing modifications over the years would be a better choice but like the header sez:- It's amazing what you can get away with.

[neJeff]

I've heard 12" is suitable but have a neighbor that pulls one of those big, zero turn commercial mowers around with 8" wheels without any issue. Seems like everyone is having good luck with this trailer on here which is very good news! Can't wait to have it in hand

[MaximPhil]

Hi NeJeff,
When towing at interstate speed it is a good idea to check your tires after the first hour or so. trailer tires should not be significantly warmer than the tow vehicles tires. Your hand on the tread is accurate enough for this test. Proper inflation of all tires to start is a given.
Phil

[icecycle]

Trailer

I've used a little trailer (4'x8' box) for years to haul my xj1100 with no problems. Lots of long distant trips even to Manitoba. Have done a couple of upgrades. Doubled the floor ply so I could install deck tie downs. Increased the wheel size. moved the fenders up to prevent the tires from toping out against the fenders. Extended the tongue so I always see the trailer in my side mirrors. Use a couple of metal ramps from Princess Auto for loading. Had to bolt these together so the load would be shared. Princess Auto has some real great retractible ratchet straps. Use the heavy duty like 900 lbs or better and always leave the tags on. Some USA custom guys whine if they can't see them. I've always had a couple of screwed down 2x4s in a V to hold the front tire in place but planing to install a real wheel cock device this summer and maybe a front wind deflector.
Follow everyone's advice use the best bearings you can buy and remember grease is your friend.

[trbig]

I agree with Fred. If you burn up a set of properly adjusted wheel bearings, either the bearings had a problem or the grease (Or lack of) did. I have a small 4x8 trailer with 8" wheels that I've hauled thousands and thousands of miles at freeway speeds, with many of those miles with an XS or XJ on it. It's had many many miles on it with a half ton of feed. If you've got 12" tires on it, there's still a bunch of CARS on the road that still use those, and I imagine they're driving highway speeds just fine also.

If you pull the bearing cap and the grease looks rusty at all, replace them with a good set of Timken, Toyo or such bearings. Use the old bearing and grind the outside edge on a grinder until it slips easily in and out of the hub. Use this against the new bearing, tap on the old bearing with a hammer to seat the new one. All the pressure will be on the outside race and you won't damage the bearing or the dust shield if the new one has one. Make sure and pack the new bearing first with a good high temp grease designed for wheel bearings.

If you go to the boating section of your Walmart, they make something called a Bearing Buddy. You replace the the stock bearing caps with these. They are springloaded inside and have a grease fitting on the outside center. You squirt grease into the fitting, and a springloaded plate gets compressed back towards the outside of the wheel. As you drive and lose grease, the springloaded pressure keeps fresh new grease pushed into your bearing. Last time I checked, they were @ $20 for a pair.

[trbig]

Also, when taking out on a trip with your trailer, go 15-20 miles, pull over, and feel your bearing hubs or rims near the bearings. Feel hot at all? There's a problem in there if you do. It takes friction to make that heat, and with good bearings and grease, there won't be any. If they still feel normal temp, I'd check them again after a while. If still good, I like to still give them a check every fuel stop. I'd rather change them out, if needed, at a truck stop or auto parts parking lot, versus on the side of the road somewhere, possibly having to leave my trailer and bike there while I went hunting new bearings, as well as a new rim and tire usually.

[Jerry]

I've mentioned this before, but an alternate source for getting a tailer is your local salvage yard. The last 2 'homebuilts" I had were originally camping trailers. For about $100.00 the local yard will sell me a trailer. I remove the body and title the rig as a homebuilt. Generally these have 13 or 14 inch tires, and one had a trailer jack and a spare. Add lights and you are ready to go. Whole process takes some work, but you generally end up with a better quality trailer for about the same price as a new Harbor Freight rig.