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  • Car Alarm System

    After my daughter got my truck totaled, we baught a used vehicle for her to drive, a 2000 Honda Accord. It came with a VIPER alarm system in it. it also came with two remotes form the VIPER system with the keys for the car. Only one of them has ever worked.

    The sound portion of the system never worked, not a beep toot or anything form the alarm system speakers. Now it is becoming Christine, mayeb because it has gotten so cold, and deciding when it wants to let the locks work, or the car will be allowed to start, all on its own.

    Since I am the third owner since it was installed, and I got zero paperwork on it, I have no way to get any of the "lifetime warranty" work done on it. I am trying to decide if I should just gut the thing out, but then I need Honda remotes for the locks if it even then has remote locks, and I have no wiring diagram to know what of all the stuff under the dash is the Viper stuff and what is the Honda stuff.

    Anyone out there have a suggestion or an installation/removal wiring diagram? I know the remote is a 476V.
    Life is what happens while your planning everything else!

    When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.

    81 XS1100 Special - Humpty Dumpty
    80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection


    Previously owned
    93 GSX600F
    80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
    81 XS1100 Special
    81 CB750 C
    80 CB750 C
    78 XS750

  • #2
    Removal is not so difficult on most aftermarket alarm systems. You can pretty much just disconnect the module and pull the fuses from the wiring. The major exception is the starter kill relay. Typically it's spliced into the wiring coming off the ignition switch and will have two large wires and two small wires connected to it. You'll need to splice the two large wires together (if the relay is labeled they'll be terminals 30 and either 87 or 87a.) The harness for the module can simply be trimmed out, or disconnected from the points where it splices into the car's harness and removed.

    If you want the factory keyless entry to work you'll have to get a fob and have it programmed at the dealership. The alternative is to simply not have keyless entry....using the key in the door will arm/disarm the factory immobilizer system regardless.

    Before you go tearing into the wiring though....you might wanna try just replacing the batteries in those key fobs. That could easily be all that's wrong with it.
    My Special is as old as I am.

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    • #3
      The ghost in the machine that seems to be haunting your car is most likely not the fault of the viper system directly but rather the installation method used.
      I've seen it dozens of times; the high volume installer shop technicians usually only splice the wiring for the gadget into the car using nothing more than the 'twist and tape' method, which is almost always good enough to get past the labor part of the warranty coverage, but begins to fail over time resulting in intermittent connections leading to random and unpredictable behaviors, particularly in colder weather.
      Before attempting an un-install, consider spending some time under the dash with a soldering gun and fresh electrical tape "finishing" the installation.
      At the least, when you go looking to see if I'm right, you may be able to get a make and model number from the alarm module and find some documentation from Viper's website, particularly the install guide, which would provide valuable info for removing the poltergiest from the car if all else fails.
      Good Luck
      '78 E "Stormbringer"

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