make your own parts?
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That's COOL!
Just think of all the plastic parts that are hard to get nowadays.
Side covers, emblems, switch handles, etc. The list goes on.
Slap some paint on them and viola, new part.
We'd just have to make sure we've got a mint template to get the measurment specs from, then once the computer file/image is made you could pump out as many as you needed.
I think the article said it can do rubber too.... Foot pegs, grommets...etc.
I wish I had a couple of grand lying around.Hi, my name is George & I'm a twisty addict!
80G (Green paint(PO idea))
The Green Monster
K&N A/F, TC's fuse block, '81 oil cooler, TC's homemade 4-2 w/Mac Mufflers, Raptor 660 ACCT
Got him in '04.
bald tire & borrowing parts
80SG (Black w/red emblems & calipers)
Scarlet
K&N A/F, TC's fuse block, WJ5, Shoei bags, Raptor 660 ACCT.
Got her in '11
Ready for the twisties!
81H (previously CPMaynard's)
Hugo
Full Venturer, Indigo Blue with B/W painted tank.
Cold weather ride -
I can join a local "club" that will have these printers in about a month! It's about 30 per month dues, plus time on the computer and printer. I do NOT know if they have a 3D scanner, though.Ray Matteis
KE6NHG
XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!Comment
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The company I work for has some of those, never seen the printer though just see the printed parts.Nathan
KD9ARL
μολὼν λαβέ
1978 XS1100E
K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace
LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters
Green Monster Coils
SS Brake Lines
Vision 550 Auto Tensioner
In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.
Theodore RooseveltComment
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Here's a video.....
The printer isn't the expensive part; it's the scanner, but pretty trick nonetheless. The fact that it can duplicate something with multiple, even moving, parts is what's so amazing.
Downside is you better want plastic parts; the metal 'printers' are big bux...Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two
'78E original owner - resto project
'78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
'82 XJ rebuild project
'80SG restified, red SOLD
'79F parts...
'81H more parts...
Other current bikes:
'93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
'86 XL883/1200 Chopper
'82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...Comment
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@DAVINCI Vacuum-forming is great, but 3D printers go far beyond the limitations of vacuum-forming. You can make pieces with internal working parts. These things are a whole new world in manufacturing and at home tinkering.
I've known about these for a long time, but never thought about it's application to motorcycle parts. This would actually be the perfect way to recreate the often missing or broken, and pesky to find XS side covers, you could even print the logos on in 3D if you wanted.
Here's a link to Makerbot's website. It has a short video explaining the whole process...
Pat K
80 XS11 "Special" Standard
(80G chassis & engine w/ 79 SG lights and cluster)
79 XS650 (engine currently squeals like a stuck pig.)
72 Plymouth Satellite (met an unpaved manhole collar, which it managed to tear out of the street, currently has some "issues")
04 Current Designs Solstice GT XL Kayak (I like it because it doesn't have carbs, or any other moving parts)Comment
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I've had some experience vacumn forming, even made one for small scale, not as costly, but you do need a good template(an original piece) or make one from plaster/clay...etc. In the next couple weels. I'll see what kind of plastic I have laying around, maybe I'll make an "XS" or "Special" mold, and see how it comes out, besides using it to either pour a emblem from it, can make cookies,candy even cake from it, or use a heavier abs and make an actuall usable part, thing is, your making a female part when vacumn forming, using thin plastic can result in decent detail without pouring, just using the formed part after triming, but the heavier gage you use, you lose detail, but gain strength, would be ok for less detailed items merely requiring the shape, and after painting, would be hard pressed to know the difference.
81 XS1100HComment
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