A running list of my own stupidities (warning: longish rant)

[BA80]

You also have what 7 bikes?

The okieSPECIAL, 2 projects 3 parts bikes and a bare SH frame........close.

[Hmar]

I have both a floor jack and a bottle jack. Just never thought to use them.
got the bike up on the center stand yesterday while I had light to play with (what a difference!)
used the floor jack because I couldn't find the bottle jack. I noticed that something looked wrong on the left side of the front tire, and the break pads were hanging down. I discovered that I had dropped the cap that goes between the tire and the fork on the left side, found it about 3 feet from the bike. I set the jack to hold up the front end with the tire still touching the ground, removed the shaft, got that piece back in. Then I loosened the bolts on the calipers enough so that I could swing the pads back up, and tightened everything back up. Took the bike for a short ride, now the back brake does not return after pressing it (I was never near there, my talent for screwing things up knows no bounds) and the front left roter seems to be rubbing against the fork on the outside. Got home after dark again (called into work) so I'll need to look at it today (I learned a lesson!)
Bike seems to pull a little left now, I suspect that has something to do with the roter rubbing?

[BA80]

Hmmm....Trying to picture what the he!! your talking about. The only cap on the left side of the axle is the speedometer drive and with it installed properly the rotor should be properly spaced in the groove.

You DID align the 2 tabs inside the left bearing recess with the 2 grooves in the speedo drive right? Still, I can't see how the ouside of the left rotor can be rubbing. Unless your talking about the other left, you know, the one on the right. The right side can slide on the big end of the axle and can be tightened out of alignment due to inexperience. BTDT

[natemoen]

When referring to sides of a bike always refer to it as the side it would be while sitting on the bike.

[Hmar]

Meant to sya right, both the caliper and the missing/ found cap. my mistake.
For fun, the speedometer stopped working on my way to work this morning. Yay.

[Hmar]

The right side can slide on the big end of the axle and can be tightened out of alignment due to inexperience. BTDT

So, since I meant the other left, Does this mean I can just loosen the left (I mean right), let the fork slide out a bit, and retighten? This is my plan for my lunch break, if I can get the maintenance guy to loan me tools. That, and bleed the rear brake.

Speedometer currently = least of my worries.

[natemoen]

I think you need to step back read through the Fork alignment process in the manual (dont have one? Download the electronic version from the link in member catatonic bug's signature line) and then start over from scratch.

[BA80]

So, since I meant the other left, Does this mean I can just loosen the left (I mean right), let the fork slide out a bit, and retighten? This is my plan for my lunch break, if I can get the maintenance guy to loan me tools. That, and bleed the rear brake.

Speedometer currently = least of my worries.

Yeah you can loosen and slide the fork to align the rotor in it's groove. Groovy?
You need to determine whether it's the hydaulics ( master cylinder) or a mechanical problem making the brake pedal stick down. That shaft that the pedal and push rod are connected to can get rusty and sticky where it runs through the frame. Kinda what it sounds like to me. The return spring should bring it back up even if the master cylinder is sticking.

[fredintoon]

Meant to sya right, both the caliper and the missing/ found cap. my mistake.
For fun, the speedometer stopped working on my way to work this morning. Yay.

Hi Hmar,
try saying port and starboard, that works whichever way the bike is facing or even if it's upside down.
Speedo:-
If the speedo don't work but the odometer does, the speedo is fried and you need another one.
If nothing works, investigate further.
Now you have learned the jacking the frame up trick, screw the cable outer retaining nut off the speedo so you can see the drive cable's square end, lift the front wheel and spin it.
If the cable turns, yes, the speedo is fried.
If it don't, investigate further.
Either the cable is broken (take the bottom end off and look) or the speedo drive connector dogs were mis-aligned when you put the wheel back in. With luck, they can be straightened.
If the cable IS broken, don't just buy a new one and bung it in.
It most likely broke because the speedo has run out of lube after 30 years and is hard to turn.
To check, shove a Robertson screwdriver (or the busted stub of the cable) into the speedo drive connection and twirl it. There should be little or no resistance. If it resists, that's what broke the cable. Dribble some 3 in 1 or other light oil into the drive. If the speedo frees up you are golden. If it don't, you ain't. You are back to checking the "parts for sale" forum.

[cywelchjr]

I have both a floor jack and a bottle jack. Just never thought to use them.
got the bike up on the center stand yesterday while I had light to play with (what a difference!)
used the floor jack because I couldn't find the bottle jack. I noticed that something looked wrong on the left side of the front tire, and the break pads were hanging down. I discovered that I had dropped the cap that goes between the tire and the fork on the left side, found it about 3 feet from the bike. I set the jack to hold up the front end with the tire still touching the ground, removed the shaft, got that piece back in. Then I loosened the bolts on the calipers enough so that I could swing the pads back up, and tightened everything back up. Took the bike for a short ride, now the back brake does not return after pressing it (I was never near there, my talent for screwing things up knows no bounds) and the front left roter seems to be rubbing against the fork on the outside. Got home after dark again (called into work) so I'll need to look at it today (I learned a lesson!)
Bike seems to pull a little left now, I suspect that has something to do with the roter rubbing?

Part of the procedure on the specials when putting the wheel back on after bouncing the front end a couple of times (not off the ground just compressing the forks and releasing them) is to properly position the rotors in the calipers before locking down the axle. This is done only on one side on standards and most of the time not needed after the bounce as it will almost always naturally space itself correctly.

[Hmar]

So, I let the fork out a bit, and no more rubbing. bled the rear brake, no apparent help. The spring seems to be shot, but it seems to take more effort to lift the pedal than that little wire ever had in it, so I suspect it has other issues. still haven't had a chance to look at the speedometer cable except to verify that it appears to be installed correctly. Odometer is out as well.
Steering seems to be a little bit loose, but not sure if it really is or if it is just me.

[Fix]

So, I let the fork out a bit, and no more rubbing. bled the rear brake, no apparent help. The spring seems to be shot, but it seems to take more effort to lift the pedal than that little wire ever had in it, so I suspect it has other issues. still haven't had a chance to look at the speedometer cable except to verify that it appears to be installed correctly. Odometer is out as well.
Steering seems to be a little bit loose, but not sure if it really is or if it is just me.

I find that once in a great while, my speedo cable will come lose from the speedo housing. I should throw a dab of locktite on it. Maybe yours backed out as well?

[Hmar]

I'll check the connections on my lunch break. Thanks

[BA80]

Your standard has a different setup than the special Fix. Ours has a bracket held to the drive with a bolt.

[Hmar]

So, The rear brake is better with the liberal application of wd-40. I took the front wheel back off, lined the speedo back up with the tabs on the wheel (I bent them in when I reinstalled the wheel) and it worked. For about a mile. The speed sensor looked good, I will need to bend the tabs back out a little more. Otherwise, the bike seems to be running ok for now. I still need to fix the oil leak and the 2nd gear, those will wait until riding season is over if they don't get worse. Thanks to all who helped