160 MPH speedometer installation 80' XS1100

[Bonz]

Help me here. Obviously, I can get the main assembly off the bike, meaning I get to the point that I have the shell where the instrument lights go in my hand, but I can't get the tach itself out of that without taking off the front lens. Make sense?

There are smaller holes around back edge of the above described shell, that do not have bulbs in them. Are those the holes we are all taking about? I put a couple quick shots of a teflon lube in those holes a couple weeks ago when I started this quest, and it made the tach wobble at all speeds, whereas before it only happened at 5600 rpm-6000rpm, and then would steady out. So I did SOMETHING, not for the better, and was making the inference that I was not spraying in the correct holes, and had to get the tach out of the shell to do it right.

As well, I used teflon spray, figuring it would work in a similar fashion to silicon, but am I wrong there as well?

SO, let me know if I did have the correct holes, and I will give it a shot with silicon this time, or if I really need to get the tach itself out of the shell to do it.

[fredintoon]

- - - Do you have to do two cuts, or can one cut work and then spread it out enough to work it off? Is the ring flexible enough for that? I don't like the idea of cutting anything on such a pristine bike. So does my desire to try and fix the tach wobble outweigh the absolute need to cut the ring, no matter how thin a cut. I guess I'll know tonight, determined by whether I am trying to get the ring off or not!

Hi Howard,
dunno if one cut would work, the gauges I've been into ('effin' dial screws vibrated out so no other option) I used 2 cuts.
Try with one cut and if the bezel won't come off make the other cut?
Like I said, it's a Q & D fix and a last resort thing at that.
JAT (i've never tried this) If all you need to do is get some lube in there, perhaps drill a ~3/8" hole through the instrument case wall where it won't show on reassembly to get access for the lube spraycan extension tube?

[Bonz]

That's a good idea, to drill a small hole in the shell. At least to put one in the center area, where it'd have the best "shot" at getting lube into the back of the tach, where I understand the little bearing to be that gets dry and causes the flutter.

The one thing that I need to be aware of, according to the tech tip on how to do this, is to not get any lube on the circuit board, or it will eventually overheat and fail totally.

The question then, is will drilling a hole in the shell that the bulbs go into be the ticket? From what I understand, the tach itself (which is in the shell that houses the instrument bulbs) has a small hole that needs to have the lube sprayed in very carefully, which is why I am trying to get the tach out, to be as precise in the application of lube as possible.

[subike]

Here is me thinking you are talking about the body of the tac wobbling in the cup when on the road from vibration, but now I see that you are talking of the tac needle "fluttering" at different revs? My 80 is doing that between 2000rpm & 3000rpm. So from reading these posts, there is a ? bearing that runs dry and needs a tiny bit of lube on it to cure this problem, but the problem is compounded by lack of access to said bearing with lube without causing potential damage to the circuit board. Mmmm looks like I will have to investige this problem myself as well. Will be watchin with interest for answers from the more experianced.

[Bonz]

subike, you are right on target now. It's the tach needle that flutters and won't show a steady reading on mine, like on yours apparently!

Go to "tech tips" on the home page, then "repairs", then "battery-electrical" and finally "Tach wobble".

Yes, it's getting at the bearing in the back of the tach itself, which the only way to remove it is to pull the tach out the front once the lens is removed.

It was a nice tech tip to know there is a solution, but getting the black ring offf that holds the lens in place is the bugger that I want to find a good way to do, but looks like it's either pry it off supremely gently with small screwdrivers, or cut slits in it and take it off in two halves, which I don't want to do. I guess I'll be trying to get it off with small screwdrivers since I don't want to cut it.

[bikerphil]

Try one of those paint can opener pry tools that they give you free when you buy a gallon of paint. I've used one to open up a speedometer before, it works pretty well. Once you get the lip started, it goes much easier.

[Bonz]

That's a slick idea... Thanks for the suggestion. Let you know how it works out... I'll stop by home depot tonight.

[subike]

I will look at that idea too, thankfully I have a spare tac which is very cruddy I can conduct an experiment on first before distroying my good one.If at the worst senario I distroy the old tac, at least I can measure where to drill a hole that will access the bearing without hitting the wireing. May be possible.

[Bonz]

subike, let me know how that goes! I am very interested... Probably will still try and get mine off, it sounds like it just takes care and patience.

With that said, is there a way to get the wiring unhooked from the back of the tach so I can take the assembly to a more suitable place to work carefully as opposed to standing in front of the bike in the garage? I don't think I can get the wiring unhooked, unless I can get the tach out first based on what I have seen. Am I correct?

[subike]

subike, let me know how that goes! I am very interested... Probably will still try and get mine off, it sounds like it just takes care and patience.

With that said, is there a way to get the wiring unhooked from the back of the tach so I can take the assembly to a more suitable place to work carefully as opposed to standing in front of the bike in the garage? I don't think I can get the wiring unhooked, unless I can get the tach out first based on what I have seen. Am I correct?

It has a plug on the wireing loom that is inside the headlight benzell. easy to remove to carry over to the kitchen table for maintenance

[CatatonicBug]

Try one of those paint can opener pry tools that they give you free when you buy a gallon of paint. I've used one to open up a speedometer before, it works pretty well. Once you get the lip started, it goes much easier.

How easy is it to get the ring back on when you're done? Also, does the lip bend back into place nicely, or does it get permanently disfigured?

[Bonz]

Sweet. I hadn't looked that far into it, was thinking it might be part of the whole wiring harness, and the only way to undo it would be at the tach itself.

Thanks.

[bikerphil]

How easy is it to get the ring back on when you're done? Also, does the lip bend back into place nicely, or does it get permanently disfigured?

If you are careful and take your time, it goes back together nicely, no disfigurement. You have to put duct tape around the jaws of the pliars when crimping the ring on so it won't mar. I've only opened up the square type though.

[BigDick]

could always hook up a drill to the speedo cable and just run it till it goes all the way around to the needed mileage :-P wouldnt suggest it though !

Tried this with my dremel tool when I got my 140 MPH speedo. Took forever to get just a couple thousand miles off. I think you'd burn up your tool before you got there on the mileage change. I have one of those simple little label makers and put the original mileage on the speedo itself inside the shiny chrome bucket.

Taking them apart and replacing the 85 with a different one is really straightforward and simple. Two nuts, two bolts and a couple wires IIRC.

[Bonz]

Hey guys,

Got the ring off the front of the tach. That ring, being made of metal, has the edge rolled (crimped) in place around the housing, so you have to bend it around the whole circumference of the ring to get it off. It's a pain, took my time and the edge I bent back is not cosmetically pretty, but with patience it can be re-crimped all the way around and with some Sharpie it looks good.

So, once I had the tach out of the shell, I took some graphite spray lube (like you use for locks, etc) and put a shot of it into the back of the tach, and put a shot of it in behind the tach face aimed down the shaft that the needle attaches to. Definitely can see how the exposed circuit boards could get coated with silicone if you just spray lube in the holes around where the instrument lights are, like I did. Took some alcohol and cleaned the boards while I was in there since I had tried a teflon lube fix before w/o removing the tach from the shell.

Took it for a quick ride, and the tach seemed stable, no needle flutter. I hope for another nice warm day here in Colorado this week so I can ride to work, as it was aslways worse when it was hot out. That will be the real test.

FWIW, I don't know why I didn't use silicon, just felt the graphite would work just as well, and wanted to be different!

Keep you posted.