160 MPH speedometer installation 80' XS1100

[phantymwulf]

Hi,
Just got my 160 MPH spedo for my 80' XS1100..(Got tired of bending the needle@ 80..LOL). What is the fastest way to reverse the mileage?? I have to go from 40,800 to 28,400. I want to match what is originally on my bike... Also Does the spedo just pull out of its original case once you take off the back 2 screws..I want to change the rubber gasket around the edge..It has seen better days. Dry rotted in some areas. Pulled on this one seems to be stuck ..Was hoping to swap it out with the one on my 80 MPH spedo..it looks new. Or is is still possible to get one at a local Yamaha dealer?? Thanks for any help!!!!

Tom

[jetmechmarty]

Don't screw with the mileage. It's not worth the trouble. Just make a record of the difference. Wait until it's broken to take it apart.

The rubber part you want is called a "damper" PN 3H3-83513-00-00. It is not cheap. Somewhere here TC shows how to make a nice one from weather stripping.

Yes I believe the two bolts on the bottom of the can with the dampers around them will release the speedometer.

[subike]

Cannot suggest a way to change your milage, but I recently changed the backing on my clocks because they were rusty with some clean ones.
I was able to pull everything apart will little problems, and replacing the rubbers was one thing I did.
Not a difficult job to do at all.
It was surprising how many spiders were living inside the rusted clocks!

[jetmechmarty]

[Jamie]

There are lots of the "160 mph" speedometers on Ebay some NOS and some used, but they can be had should you choose to go that route. Good luck

[Bonz]

Ok, this thread is timely... I had the tach off a week ago to try and put a teeennnyyy bit of lube on the bearing area, to hopefully eliminate the tach flutter. This is a fix posted on the forum, FYI.

BUT I was unable to get the clear gauge cover off of the instrument body to get to the tach like I needed to. I'm a chicken, and didn't want to booger anything up. The black ring that holds the clear lens in place would not budge. How do you guys recommend getting the ring off of the gauge off so I can get to the back of the tach assembly?

FWIW, the rubber ring (damper) began falling apart in my hands as well. I got it back in place, but it lost it's damping ability for sure. The studs that go through the tach shell (with the rubber grommets under the nuts) can't be snugged up tightly now with the nuts, as they are cap nuts, so the tach is loose, so to speak.

I wrapped a piece of black electrical tape around the back edge of the black ring, overlapping the crumbling damper (outside was good, it's the rubber inside that crumbles) and overlapped the front edge of the tach shell, and made sure I had some compression so that I have a decent damper-effect going on now.

But again, my main focus is to learn how to remove the black ring around the lens to fully remove the tach.

[jetmechmarty]

Leave the tach alone until it is broken. There are threads here someplace about taking it apart. TC has some good ones for sure.

hbonser,

All of your dampers are shot. The clocks are not supposed to be tight. They float on the rubber dampers.

[natemoen]

could always hook up a drill to the speedo cable and just run it till it goes all the way around to the needed mileage :-P wouldnt suggest it though !

[jetmechmarty]

You must have no idea how slow the drill motor goes!

[phantymwulf]

new speedometer

THANKS GUYS!!
For all the info...may just leave it be...tried the drill, it WAS VERY slow..Im going to take both shells apart & swap out the dampers..
Thanks!!! Tom

[xs11lover]

I sold a guy in CA a 4,000 mile midnight. He had to advance the miles to 7,500 with a drill because the bike didn't have a 50 state smog sticker.....What the hell is going on out there?

[MrOzz]

...The black ring that holds the clear lens in place would not budge. How do you guys recommend getting the ring off of the gauge off so I can get to the back of the tach assembly...

Use a small flat head screw driver to gently pry up the lip on the back side of the gauge face. To do it right go slow.

[fredintoon]

Use a small flat head screw driver to gently pry up the lip on the back side of the gauge face. To do it right go slow.

Hi Ozz,
prying an instrument bezel off that way takes the skills of a watchmaker and the patience of a Saint.
My quick & dirty fix it to cut the bezel into two C-shapes using a thin cutting disk in a Dremel tool and pull them off sideways.
Put the halves back on using 5-minute epoxy. You have to leave out one of the thin rubber rings to get the bezel halves back on and because the epoxy is kinda permanent it'll only work once.

[Bonz]

Yes, fredintoon, I agree, it'll take more patience and care than I want to deal with. I'll booger it up, as I have already tried a small screwdriver, and it won't even fit between the two to get any leverage, without risking the blade sliding or slipping and gouging something.

Do you have to do two cuts, or can one cut work and then spread it out enough to work it off? Is the ring flexible enough for that? I don't like the idea of cutting anything on such a pristine bike. So does my desire to try and fix the tach wobble outweigh the absolute need to cut the ring, no matter how thin a cut. I guess I'll know tonight, determined by whether I am trying to get the ring off or not!

[cywelchjr]

On all the tachs and stuff I have lubed, I sprayed silicone lube in from the back. I haven't tried it with these electronic ones as mine doesn't wobble and I figure that I don't want to try and fix what ain't broke, as that tends to end up with it broke, but it may be possible to get the lube in where you want it from the back side. No need to take the face off in that case either if it's possible.

I may look at that to see if it looks possible when I pull mine off to find out just how much space I have to fit a home brew voltage regulator for the gas gauge so I can get mine to work again.