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  • OT: Automatic transmission help needed

    The tranny in my 1978 Ford F150 shop truck has developed an odd quirk that has me worried. I don't know enough about automatic transmissions to have a clue about my options and the local tranny shop wanted $1400 to fix it. This truck was bought new by a neighbor and my father bought it in 1992 with 32k miles on it. I got it 4 years ago with 68k on it and it now has a little over 90k on it and the problem started about 5k miles back...

    Sometimes, especially when it's cold, when I go to take or during an up shift, It'll loose all power to ground. I'll coast off to the side, put it in reverse, back up a couple inches and it's fixed for a while. Sometimes for hours other times for days. In hot weather and after a long drive when it's really warmed up it works great.

    I'm going to replace the filter and drain and refill it with ATF because I can do that for cheap and if it doesn't help, I'm not out much. The oil change place wanted $179 for the same job and I told them I'd do it myself...

    Anybody here have more experience with these beast and can offer more sound advice? Please, I'm open to all suggestions.

    Geezer
    Hi my name is Tony and I'm a bikeoholic.

    The old gray biker ain't what he used to be.

  • #2
    from what it sounds like geezer is that the rubber seals
    have hardened, as the transmission warms up the seals
    become pliable, you could try an addative and cross your
    fingers and hope for the best, or the rubber seals will require
    replacing.
    pete


    new owner of
    08 gen2 hayabusa


    former owner
    1981 xs1100 RH (aus) (5N5)
    zrx carbs
    18mm float height
    145 main jets
    38 pilots
    slide needle shimmed .5mm washer
    fitted with v/stax and uni pod filters

    [url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3pA8dwxmAVA&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL[/url]

    Comment


    • #3
      Could be the valves sticking in the valve body, and they are freeing up when warm. Might add some Seafoam Trans Tune (or similar product) and run it for a couple of miles, see if there is a improvement, and then change the filter. If the Seafoam doesn't help your problem it won't do any harm either, completely safe to use. Good luck!
      Richard
      '79 XS1100SF "Phantom Stranger" full fairing w/radio and cd player, H-D Roadking trunk, everything else stock
      '02 Honda VTX1800C

      Comment


      • #4
        My experience is with the older automatics, so I'm not sure if I can help too much... I would think doing the fluid and filter will be the #1 on my list. Look for a brown fluid, or a burnt smell when you change it. If the old fluid does NOT look really bad, you should be OK. I would then put on an aftermarket transmission cooler. Plumb it so the fluid goes from the trans, too the cooler, and then through the radiator and back too the trans. That will keep the oil cool, but not allow it to get too cold to work properly.
        Now I don't know what shop you talked to, but DO NOT EVER GO TO AAMCO!!! They WILL overcharge you and do a bad job on top of it!!
        Ray Matteis
        KE6NHG
        XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
        XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!

        Comment


        • #5
          Hey Ray,
          Its a 78 model,
          how much older would you be talking about? lol
          pete


          new owner of
          08 gen2 hayabusa


          former owner
          1981 xs1100 RH (aus) (5N5)
          zrx carbs
          18mm float height
          145 main jets
          38 pilots
          slide needle shimmed .5mm washer
          fitted with v/stax and uni pod filters

          [url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3pA8dwxmAVA&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL[/url]

          Comment


          • #6
            If the oil is brunt, DO NOT CHANGE IT! It's money wasted and the quickest way to finish it off. If you do, it will most likely brake down on you when you are out on the road using it, and it probably won't take long. I made my living rebuilding transmissions for many years, and from my experience you are probably going to need a rebuild. With the number of miles and its age, the fiber material is shot and probably flaking off. Small particles then get into the valves and cause them to stick. Also Pete is right that the seals have hardened. Send me an email and we'll talk.

            Larry
            Inventor of the YICS Eliminator. Want one? Get it here.
            http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...399#post183399

            If you're not riding, you're not living!
            82 XJ1100
            80 XS1100G (Project bike)
            64 Yamaha YA-6
            77 Suzuki TS-185

            79 XS1100SF Built this one for a friend.
            See it here... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cBYT4C9_6Ac

            Comment


            • #7
              I'm with Pete, I think the seals may have dried out a bit, although I've seen 'old' fluid/dirty filters cause this problem. 90K miles is still pretty 'young' for the bands, etc to be worn out unless the truck has been used for a lot of hauling/towing of heavy loads. While changing the fluid, make sure you get the torque convertor drained as it holds a lot of fluid and not draining that means you only changed about half of it, contaminating the new with the old. No drain plugs on the convertor? Change it at least twice, three times would be better. Use a 'seal softener' additive.

              If the fluid has never been changed, you've taken some life out of the gearbox, but it still should have some miles left in it. The ford boxes will go over 200K easily in 'normal' use if cared for. The trans fluid should be changed every 40-50K at least, more often if you haul/tow.

              I'll agree with Larry, if the fluid has been 'burned', the gearbox is probably done...

              '78E original owner
              Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

              '78E original owner - resto project
              '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
              '82 XJ rebuild project
              '80SG restified, red SOLD
              '79F parts...
              '81H more parts...

              Other current bikes:
              '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
              '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
              '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
              Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
              Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

              Comment


              • #8
                78 Ford pickup will probably have a C6. They were pretty well bullet proof. At 90k, I would get a Chilton's and a beam type inchpound torque wrench and see about setting the bands again. They do wear, and you could probably get another few thousand miles out of it. That and a filter change would be the cheapest things to try first. If you get the filter changed, spend the $60 or so to have it power flushed. I don't buy into it on polwer steering or coolant, but it genuinely seems to work on automatic transmissions.

                If all else fails and you have mediocre mechanical abilities, pull the sucker and rebuild it your self. They were pretty simple to rebuild and cheap enough as well.
                Ich habe dich nicht gefragt.

                Comment


                • #9
                  My own sad story,
                  our trusty Buick's tranny died as my wife and I pulled into the restaurant car park on Valentine's day.
                  The tranny suddenly went from working great to acting like it was in neutral.
                  Coulda been worse, we could have been in the middle of down town traffic.
                  As it was, we could enjoy our dinner, both of us could drink more than the driver's token 1/2 glass of wine and get a free ride home in CAA's towtruck.
                  Turns out that the tranny fluid cooler in the radiator had failed and had allowed engine coolant to mix with the tranny fluid and the tranny didn't like that at all.
                  What with a complete tranny rebuild and a new radiator the repair bill was just about equal to what the car was worth.
                  But whatcha gonna do? Sell the car for scrap? Buy another 17 year old car with God knows what problems of it's own?
                  Or pay up and drive the Buick another 150,000 miles?
                  Fred Hill, S'toon
                  XS11SG with Spirit of America sidecar
                  "The Flying Pumpkin"

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Thanx for all the suggestions. I'm going to verify what model transmission it is today. The guys at auto parts store told me to count the bolts on the pan. Anyway the transmission has been regularly serviced. Once by the original owner and once by my father. The oil change places around here all want $120 and up for a flush. I guess I'm just too damn cheap for that...

                    It has some other problems from sitting and I could see that the seals could be a problem. The power steering leaks too.

                    This truck was the bait and switch model, base model with deluxe trim and high gearing. It had the smallest radiator Ford made. It over heated easily from the time it was new so I put in the biggest triple core radiator I could get when I got it... I'm planning a full restore so I'm willing to put in the effort but $1400 right now is just plan out of the question...

                    Geezer
                    Hi my name is Tony and I'm a bikeoholic.

                    The old gray biker ain't what he used to be.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I'm sure your probably aware of this option, but if you can't spend for the full rebuild there are a lot of trucks and transmissions available at junk yards. I'm sure probably cheaper then 1400 bucks, not as good as a full rebuild but....

                      Also call around some more, when the transmission went out in SWMBO blazer I had a lot of shops quote me 1000+, had a family member suggest a small local place he'd used before and the guy that does the rebuilds will do what you want...meaning I talked to him because I was short on cash and he only replaced the parts that were worn out, I got out of it for just under 300 bucks, and we've already put another 10k on it and it seems to be holding up fine.
                      1979 xs1100 Special -
                      Stock air box/K&N Filter, MAC 4-2 exhaust, Bad-Boy Air horn, TC fuse box, Windshield, Soft bags, Vetter Fairing, Blinkers->Run/Turn/Brake Lights, Headlight Modulator, hard wire GPS power

                      Short Stack - 1981 xs1100 Standard - lowered for SWMBO.

                      Originally posted by fredintoon
                      Goes like a train, corners like a cow, shifts like a Russian tractor, drinks like a fish, you are gonna love it.
                      My Bike:
                      [link is broken]

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by DiverRay View Post
                        My experience is with the older automatics, so I'm not sure if I can help too much... I would think doing the fluid and filter will be the #1 on my list. Look for a brown fluid, or a burnt smell when you change it. If the old fluid does NOT look really bad, you should be OK. I would then put on an aftermarket transmission cooler. Plumb it so the fluid goes from the trans, too the cooler, and then through the radiator and back too the trans. That will keep the oil cool, but not allow it to get too cold to work properly.
                        Now I don't know what shop you talked to, but DO NOT EVER GO TO AAMCO!!! They WILL overcharge you and do a bad job on top of it!!
                        +1 on the AAMCO. Many years ago I took a transmission in to be repaired. It took them 5 tries to get it right and finally the fifth time they found the hairline crack in an actuator plate. And to top it off it was something like 1500 back then almost 30 years ago, and that wasn't even for their supposed lifetime repair. I will however say that I put almost 100k on the transmission after that, and only got rid of the car because it was in a flood. It's now a drag car down around bakersfield (old vega wagon, pretty popular thing to do with them).
                        Cy

                        1980 XS1100G (Brutus) w/81H Engine
                        Duplicolor Mirage Paint Job (Purple/Green)
                        Vetter Windjammer IV
                        Vetter hard bags & Trunk
                        OEM Luggage Rack
                        Jardine Spaghetti 4-2 exhaust system
                        Spade Fuse Box
                        Turn Signal Auto Cancel Mod
                        750 FD Mod
                        TC Spin on Oil Filter Adapter (temp removed)
                        XJ1100 Front Footpegs
                        XJ1100 Shocks

                        I was always taught to respect my elders, but it keeps getting harder to find one.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          If you want to give the trans it's final flush down the toilet then go ahead and have it flushed. You'll throw the money out the window and the trans will be directly behind.

                          I believe the only automatic that came in the 1978 F150's was the C6. Take a look online for the adjustment specs on the bands and go a hair tighter. What I mean by a hair is like 1 or 2 inch pounds. You'll also need a 3/8" or 7/16" 12 point socket to fit the square nut on the band. It's not a difficult job and at the same time you can change the fluid and filter. Keep in mind just by dropping the oil you will probably need a new trans soon anyway. Tightening the band might get you a few more miles out of it.
                          Me Make Big Dings Wid Hamma N Welda

                          1979 XS1100F
                          1985 VMX1200

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Boy I am sure f'n glad I didn't invest any time or $50k on tools to be an ASE tech for ten friggen years at a Ford shop.

                            Disregard anything I might have said. Toilets are obviously a better option.
                            Ich habe dich nicht gefragt.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Ivan View Post
                              Boy I am sure f'n glad I didn't invest any time or $50k on tools to be an ASE tech for ten friggen years at a Ford shop.

                              Disregard anything I might have said. Toilets are obviously a better option.
                              Now thats the Ivan I remember
                              91 kwaka kz1000p
                              Stock


                              ( Insert clever quote here )

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