Ot: 1994 f-150

[BigDick]

I just fixed the shift tube in my truck, go to drive across town and hear the lifters start knocking really loud like it's way low on oil. I go into Wal Mart and buy a couple quarts, go back out into the parking lot and check the oil. Plumb full. . . .get back in and head over to lowe's, a little knocking at first, then goes away. After maybe 30 seconds or so my oil pressure gauge drops and starts flicking back and forth then bottoms out. The knocking comes back.

Summary, my truck loses oil pressure after the engine warms up and the top end starts knocking. It has been parked for the last couple of months or so.

Would an oil and filter change help? Fix it? Advice please. . . . . Thanks!

[Elevener]

Id be lookin at the oil pump, and getting an aftermarket mechanical gauge. I dont see an oil change helping any.

[BigDick]

Yeah, I was hoping it wasn't the oil pump dying. Maybe something getting pulled up to the pickup and clogging it? That or something in the filter maybe. . .

[Rasputin]

Go to http://www.ford-trucks.com/ . You will find a group almost as handy as the guys here. Post your questions and symptoms in the appropriate place and the answers will come quick.

[Schming]

Your symptoms are looking towards Elevener's observation.
You can also find help here: http://www.fordf150.net/
GL

[DGXSER]

shift tube? Hmmm..not sure what that is.

If the nois gets louder and or worse and oil pressure drops off the map as it gets warmer, then first things first did you put the correct oil wieght in it?

If that is yes, then I to would suspect the pump at this point.

[Ivan]

Couple things. First, the oil pressure gauge in a Ford has nothing to do with pressure. It is wired with a pressure switch and a resistor to make the needle read "somewhere in the middle". All the gauge tells you is that you have more than 4 psi.

Second, an oil pump test on a ford is easy. Remove the distributor, get a long 1/4 extension with a 1/4 socket. Use electrical tape to secure the socket to the extension and put the socket down the distributor hole onto the 1/4 hex shaft. Use an electric drill to spin it up and see if you get pressure.

Fords had trouble with the screen and pickup tube falling off in the pan, and the pump its self was above oil level, so you could have full oil level and not be drawing oil. If that has happened, the drill test will spin the pump, but not pull the drill down from actually pumping oil. Normally the drill will really grunt when it starts pumping.

Last option is the 1/4 hex shaft being twisted off. That happens when someone puts way too heavy oil in like straight 50 weight and starts it cold and revs the heck out of it, or when small pieces of bearings or valve stem seals get through the screen and into the pump gears. Fords would do well to use a much finer mesh than the 3/16 hail screen they put on from the factory.

Hope that gives you some ideas.

[BigDick]

Thanks for all the help and suggestions! ! !

shift tube? Hmmm..not sure what that is.

If the nois gets louder and or worse and oil pressure drops off the map as it gets warmer, then first things first did you put the correct oil wieght in it?

If that is yes, then I to would suspect the pump at this point.

shift tube is the "Ford" name for the shift linkage that runs down the top of the steering column (automatic transmission)

i run 10-40 oil in it.

. . . an oil pump test on a ford is easy. Remove the distributor, get a long 1/4 extension with a 1/4 socket. Use electrical tape to secure the socket to the extension and put the socket down the distributor hole onto the 1/4 hex shaft. Use an electric drill to spin it up and see if you get pressure.

Fords had trouble with the screen and pickup tube falling off in the pan, and the pump its self was above oil level, so you could have full oil level and not be drawing oil. If that has happened, the drill test will spin the pump, but not pull the drill down from actually pumping oil. Normally the drill will really grunt when it starts pumping.

Last option is the 1/4 hex shaft being twisted off. That happens when someone puts way too heavy oil in like straight 50 weight and starts it cold and revs the heck out of it, or when small pieces of bearings or valve stem seals get through the screen and into the pump gears. Fords would do well to use a much finer mesh than the 3/16 hail screen they put on from the factory.

How long is long?

So if it's not pumping, and the shaft's not twisted off, I probably lost the pickup tube? Is that as simple as pulling the oil pan and reassembling?

[Ivan]

I suppose 6 or 8 inches for the extension. You can use more than one, but use electrical tape tightly wound on each joint, because they are hard to dig out of an engine.

When I was wrenching, I would take the oil pump to the weld shop to get a spot braised on it, or it would fall off again. The other option is to get a new screen. They are fairly inexpensive. Just be sure the fit is tight enough when its fully seated you can't pull it back out with out a hammer and prybar. If you can twist it by hand, its going to fall out again sooner or later. And, yes, its as simple as pulling the pan and putting it back together...if that ever was simple on a Ford truck. Usually its a PITA and involves pulling the engine half way out, lots of cussing and swallowing at least a quart of used oil. If you don't have a lift, its worse.

[whoa5.0]

another thought

something i've seen a few times on those is if the previous owner has tried replacing a pan gasket and used too much silicone sealer which can get inside the pan and plug the pickup screen. You might be able to look up in it with a small bore scope, but would probably have to still drop the pan.

[Ivan]

along those lines, for some reason Ford used the old cork gasket with rubber end pieces on the five liter, but a one piece molded silicone gasket on the 5.8. IIRC the one piece will fit the 5 liter as well, and is a helluva lot easier to put on with those felpro helpers that screw into the bolt holes and hold it in place while you put the other bolts in.

[BigDick]

I'm starting to think the best thing to do is

1994 Ford F-150 for sale. extended cab, 5.0 motor, auto transmission, 2 wheel drive, power windows and locks, cd player, 178000 miles, some rust, $1000 obo.

[DGXSER]

Hopefully you can ride your XS11 around till you get the truck fixed. Take your time and run the checks suggested.

This is no different than finding the shoe you can only find one of in the house. You just keep looking until you eliminate all the things it is not and get to what it is. Just like fixing the XS.

It can be done, and you will do it.

[BigDick]

I need to swap the fork seals on the 11, the right side is leaking past (I think I may have gotten it crooked or something) also my drain bolts had backed out a bit and i lost all the oil. That'll be fixed this weekend.

With the ford it's just frustration mostly, I've done quite a bit of work lately to my vehicles ( I also have a 1976 chevy pickup that runs and I can drive). You get to that point where you're working on your stuff more than riding/driving it and you're just fed up.