One last question for the Audiophiles??

[latexeses]

Does anyone here run a subwoofer with a single cable connection? A connection that looks like a oversized RCA pin plug on the end?

Is that connection just a shielded cable with the center pin being the positive side of the speaker and the "cone" of the plug being the negative?

My sub is an older Cerwin Vega and has standard two lug connectors so this is new technology to me.

Thanks in advance.

Rodger

[crazy steve]

The single cable connection is now common, but that's nearly always for a powered sub. Most modern receivers and integrated amps have a 'line out' sub output, a lot fewer have a built-in dedicated amplifier.

No power cord on this one? No separate amp/control box? Different manufacturers do different things, so you need to check with the company that made your sub. I've seen a few that used a 'headphone' type plug at the sub, to allow both channels to be inputted into the sub; the sub then combines the two channels internally. You may need a product-specific cable, hopefully that's still available.

I have seen a way to connect a 'third' or 'center' speaker to a stereo source, but this dates back to the days of tube equipment and I don't think most modern solid-state amps will let you do this.

'78E original owner

[latexeses]

This is what I am looking at on the back of the amp..



The plug for the subwoofer in particular. All and I mean all of the instructions just mention plugging the subwoofer in at this plug.

My subwoofer is a 12" Cerwin Vega that was designed so that you run the speaker wiring into the sub (both channels), then a crossover in the sub filtered all of the highs running into the sub and then the speaker wire was run on the the main speakers. The sub didn't eliminate the bass going to the main speakers. The sub just did a much better job of producing the lows.

[XJOK2PLAY]

I have an Onkyo 1000 watt 6.1 surround system. It has a powered sub. It uses a single RCA type cable as you describe as well... rocks well, too!

Yeah, that's all they're doing is stinger is positive, shield is negative.

First time I saw that myself made me scratch my head and think... hurt like heck...

[latexeses]

Thanks for that.

Looks like I am either going to have to get into the sub and wire a female plug into the thing or take the plug off one end of a healthy subwoofer cable and solder pins for the current sub connectors.

Do you see any problem with those two options?

[tw1980]

You mentioned before that your sub has a built in crossover and has hook ups for speaker wires in from amp then out to the front speakers.It sounds to me like it's designed for high level input.If so your rca sub out jacks won't be used.Post a pic of the hookup terminals on the sub and we should be able to tell for sure.

[crazy steve]

Looks like I am either going to have to get into the sub and wire a female plug into the thing or take the plug off one end of a healthy subwoofer cable and solder pins for the current sub connectors.

Do you see any problem with those two options?

DON'T DO IT! That sub output on the back will only work if you have a powered (built-in or outboard amp) sub with a matching RCA plug, or if you have a separate outboard amp of some kind for the sub. That jack IS NOT for direct connection to a speaker; if you try to use it for that, the sub won't work and you may smoke the preamp. From your description of the sub, it's an older non-powered type, so connect your sub the same way you did before; in-line with the main speakers.

Now, if you really want to get tricky and do this up right, pick up a decent used amp of some sort (a receiver or integrated amp will work too, and may be easier to work with and find). Get one with enough poop to power the sub; I'd look for something in the 100 watt-per-channel range or more. Power is the only criteria here. You should be able to find one for under $200 no problem, probably under $100. Or do you still have the unit you're replacing? I'm sure it will work if it's still good.

So, to connect this: You have a 'split' output for the sub (L & R), as well as the mono output. Now, does whatever you picked up have an internally connected preamp/amp, or is it connected on the back panel? The backpanel will have RCA jacks marked 'pre out' and 'amp in' if it's external. External connections? Then hook your 'split' sub outputs on the Yamaha to the 'amp in' on the unit, hook the sub to the L/R main speaker lugs, plug it all in and rock out.

No external preamp/amp connections? No problem; simply connect the split sub outputs from the Yammy to a 'tape in' input set. Select which ever tape input you used, hook eveything else as above, and rock out. This has the advantage of allowing you to control the sub volume separately (but probably isn't needed). This will also enable the 'tone' controls, giving you more control, but again probably not needed.

Why go to all this trouble? First, I'm sure your 'new' amp allows you to 'set' the sub gain separately, a feature you'll lose if you connect to the main speakers. Two, this frees up more power for both the front mains and the sub; clearer sound. Three, you're not depending on the crossover in the sub anymore, so the DSP features of the Yammy won't have any issues with it.

This help?

'78E original owner