I thought for sure that I was about to read a McGiver story when I read tools and cheese wiz! Still good though.
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Tools and cheeze whiz
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Originally posted by tw1980 View PostI haven't been anywhere since college that I have seen so many electronics people in one place.(with the exception of a few tech schools)What is the attraction of these bikes to technical,engineer and electronic type people?In most places I feel like I'm the smartest guy in the room,(even smarter after a couple beers)but here I feel like I'm average at best.Why are there soooo many smart people on this forum?
Terry
Xtremely smart people recognize Xcellence in quality and engineering when they Xperience it, and are just inXorably drawn to these machines and this site. I know I've raised my IQ a few points just from being here and reading all of the great info that is shared here.
I'm one of the folks that received a tube of that copper infused grease, and have used it on my battery connections, ground connections and such.
T.C.T. C. Gresham
81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
History shows again and again,
How nature points out the folly of men!
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Geezer,
I prob'ly derailed your thread here. I mean it was a good start where "man starts out for a ride and encounters flammable liquids pouring out of super bike engine". Surely that is an attention getter. The fact that you recovered the situation without any further heroics other than having to get your tools and slice off some VW fuel line ends shows you really used you head. ( A true disappointment for any readers who were wishing for something more "catastrophic"...) Lesson learned: A leatherman just can only do so much, eh?
I really did "KLUNK" on the dielectric grease and thanks to the posters who helped me "Get my mind Right" about it. ("Cool Hand Luke" Style.) Even today I wonder just how I avoided having to ride on the "short bus" to school. Will get both dielectric grease/spray and the copper grease. (Randy...You-the-MAN!!)
Terry,
Why so many smart people on this site? Just by asking "Why" you partially answered the question. In today's USA the educational system has dumbed everything down. Students are not encouraged to think critically, read, and articulate. There! I said it! But in the "olden" days (My era..)this was not so and I am a product of that system. I asked "why?" and got answers sometimes. Other times I was told to find the answer myself. (Luh...Earnn...ing begins with someone, somewhere asking the question WHY.) On this site there's a lot of people who use their hands and their brain cause it takes both if there's a chance of being a happy bike owner.
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You said it right Terry. I am old school as well. Hands and mind go together. These young kids for the most part think it just takes a piece of paper from college. At least age and experience count somewhere. By the way folks, i am developing a power bleeder cab for the master cylinders. Front first, then the rear.1980 XS1100LG Midnight
1991 Honda CBR1000F Hurricane
"The hand is almost valueless at one end of the arm if there be not a brain at the other"
Here's to a long life and a happy one.
A quick death and an easy one.
A pretty girl and an honest one.
A cold beer and another one!
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I just started it, it's y'alls thead now... I started this thread about how a simple thing screwed up a day of riding and it's turned into an informative thread. I'm happy to share the knowledge...
TonyHi my name is Tony and I'm a bikeoholic.
The old gray biker ain't what he used to be.
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My 2 cents worth..
Here is what i KNOW.
di-electric grease, great stuff for "older" machines great moisture protection
BUT! i "greased" ALL my engine bay connections on a 97 chevy 1/2 ton and that as they say, was that. it never ran decent after that.
because, all of the "newer" vehicles, bikes cars whatever.. use computers, F.I., emmisions controls, blah blah blah...
all of these systems are LOW amperage curcuits and a bit of "grease" insulates the connection just enough to wreck havoc on the computer controler.
So, works great on older systems and high amp/volt connections.
Just DON'T use it in low amp/volt systems.
hope this helps...1979 XS1100SF Special.78 E motor/carbs, Jardine 4-2 exhaust, XS Green coils, Corbin seat, S.S. Brake lines, Hard cases, Heated grips.
2012 FJR1300 Gen 2. Heli bar risers, R-gaza crash bars, mccruise cruise control.
(2)2008 WR250R. Because kids outgrew others.
2007 Suzuki V-Strom 1000. (Just added 2024) pre-crashed.
1975 Kawasaki S1 250. My first bike. Still have it. NO I'm not selling it!!
Most bike problems are caused by a loose nut connecting the handlebars and the seat!!
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I stopped using 'dielectric grease' and just use regular grease from my grease gun. Decided the 'dielectric' part wasn't needed in the connections I do, nor the high price. And a little conductivity in the grease is a good thing. Most connections I do are just single line... no shorting danger there, just corrosion.
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Just a bit more info here
If you use grease on battery connections, your asking for aconnection failure. Prime example: A mechanic in our state highway main shop would use grease on battery connections on the big plow trucks while performing summertime preventative maint. on all of the wintertime equip. Result: During winter I and another mechanic in the middle of the nite were called out to drive some 60miles in a blizzard, over a couple mountain passes to Silverton, Colo. cause this particular plow truck would not start. And yes, that bit of grease appiled had bled down between battery terminals and conections, now mind you with four large CAT batteries it took a bit to diagnose where problem was as teminal connections had no corrosion. Consequently, from work orders which shows who performed what on these units was tracked back to him for a good tongue lashing aside from the cost of sending two mechanics out on overtime to make repairs. Had seen this happen more than once, so just a word of advice. make sure there is no acid residue remaining on all those battery connections by removing clamp bolt from connector, cleaning EVERYTHING with baking soda and wire brush, drying, reconnect and spraying with battery terminal sealer. Do this on my own vehicles and NEVER have any corrosion come back, some have went as long as 5+ years with not a sign of corrosion or build-up. This sort of careful preventative maint. can save headaches down the road, aside from the fact of extending battery life from not being overcharged due to a bad or weak connection that WILL unnecessarily continually charge an otherwise good battery, causing low levels of battery/water, shorted cells, etc. An example of good battery, charging system maint. is that the original battery in my Venturer when I bought bike new lasted a bit over five years, and 3 of those years it was outside in winter with -30 degree temps, (covered, but never the less) ridden during those times, never had to jump-start, just put heat lamp under it and blankets over bike cover..........worked for me. New Interstate battery with three years and many thousands of miles has not failed me yet anyway........knock on wood. Remember, a wet cell battery is only as good as how many times it has to be re-charged, which is why I do NOT have any use for a battery tender, as it will shorten the overall life of your wet cell battery.81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.
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