Hey there, new to forum/bike

[TajMan]

Hows it going guys?
I'm the car/motorcycle guy, I've already built a lot of projects at 24 years old, member of many online forums, new to this here though.

I just picked up a 79 XS1100 with 21K miles and kerker exhaust, sitting since prob 2001, last owner had since like 82..... for $400. Should be a nice bike once re-freshed.

I intend to build a cafe racer.

Much to learn, basically brand new at this point.

My last motorcycle was actually a 2000 Yamaha R1 I had for 1 year.

-Taj

[Bigfoot]

Welcome to the site. There is a wealth of information here. Nice find on the bike. They are great bikes, hard to kill, and easy to work on.

As for a cafe racer, not everyones taste but to each his own. Be sure to try the search feature.

[tarzan]

welcome TajMan

Lets see some pics!

[Tdog]

welcome

Hello TajMan,
Welcome to the forum! Lots of info in here from the "purists" and the "choppers". Follow your vision and remember...WE LOVE PICTURES!
Regards,
Tdog

[TajMan]

I'll post pictures soon.

So what size handlebars will fit in the stock clamps, 1" or 7/8"?

Best thing to use to get rid of surface rust on front forks?

If kerker exhaust headers are dented in a bit on leading edge where they can contact things on the road, I prob can't get dents pulled out I prob have to cut out sections and weld in new elbows huh..
I want to remove whatever silencer is there, just straight-pipe the exhaust and have flat black. black engine too.

The turn signal switch, kill switch, throttle, etc are all frozen up and old worn. I'll take apart and try to clean, it would be nice if I could source nicer pieces from somewhere.. I'd like to upgrade to newly designed/produced bike switches instead..

[Varnae]

Best thing to use to get rid of surface rust on front forks?

Acetic acid, also known as wood bleach. You can get it at usually Ace hardware stores or just buy it online. That's what I used, even for deep rust, it seemed to do a really good job. With surface rust, you should be able to soak it for a while and just wipe the rust off with a sponge. Do it outside though and don't let anyone/anything (except the neighbors cat) drink it. That would be very bad.

[CatatonicBug]

I'll post pictures soon.

So what size handlebars will fit in the stock clamps, 1" or 7/8"?

Best thing to use to get rid of surface rust on front forks?

If kerker exhaust headers are dented in a bit on leading edge where they can contact things on the road, I prob can't get dents pulled out I prob have to cut out sections and weld in new elbows huh..
I want to remove whatever silencer is there, just straight-pipe the exhaust and have flat black. black engine too.

The turn signal switch, kill switch, throttle, etc are all frozen up and old worn. I'll take apart and try to clean, it would be nice if I could source nicer pieces from somewhere.. I'd like to upgrade to newly designed/produced bike switches instead..

The handlebar clamps are 7/8". Pretty much standard for most bikes of this time period. Lots of options for replacements. You just need to be careful of the brake lines and clutch cable length with the new bars.

If you want to go with straight pipes, be prepared for carb misery. These carbs require some backpressure from the pipes, so at minimum, you'll need some sort of baffle in there.

The kill switch cluster is available at mikessx.com. Chrome one is $49, part number 24-2062. They also have black ones for a few bucks less. There may be other aftermarket ones available, but I stick to OEM when possible.

[TajMan]

hmmm maybe I'll buy something like a used newer sportbike aftermarket muffler and mod my exhaust to flow into that

I imagine its difficult to do anything with a wider rear tire in the rear, with the rear rim that is required with the shaft drive? am I correct?

[CatatonicBug]

hmmm maybe I'll buy something like a used newer sportbike aftermarket muffler and mod my exhaust to flow into that

I imagine its difficult to do anything with a wider rear tire in the rear, with the rear rim that is required with the shaft drive? am I correct?

Someone here did something with a "Cherry Bomb" muffler. Try a search for that. As for the wider rear tire, there are limitations, because of the Shaft drive. There are a few who have done the chain drive conversion, and that will allow for a larger rear tire, but will force you to loose the reliability and cleanliness of the Shaft Drive.

[DenyP]

Hey TAJman, Welcome to our group!!! I grew up in Bountiful - Small world.

Deny

[TajMan]

Sweet, I've just been in NJ for 1 year, but I JUST got home and its good to be in Utah.

I can't seem to get AA batteries for my regular camera, but
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...n/IMG_0169.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...n/IMG_0170.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...n/IMG_0171.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...n/IMG_0172.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...n/IMG_0173.jpg

[chevy45412001]

welcome and chop away i say.was thinking of a drag version when i find a worthy bike to get.

[DiverRay]

You have a "Special". The front brake pads are all 4 DIFFERENT, and ONLY fit the XS1100 Specials. You can put a 140/16 Bias ply rear tire on the bike, as long as it's a blackwall. I can just get a matchbook cover between the tire and the drive shaft. When you change out the bars, you may want to get a Standard type master for the front brake.
Do a search, and you will find a few other members have done a "Cafe" style on their bikes.
Welcome to the best bike you will ever own! The XS1100 was the LAST and BEST bike to do MOST things VERY WELL.

[T99Ford]

Thumbs up on the cafe bike. These bikes lend themselves really well to that. Check out some of the bikes from the Australian members here. They just seem to have the eye.

[TajMan]

My buddy that has a 78 let me drive his today, my first ride on the bike.

Awesome big bike with some power, very nice.