Where might I find a sprocket like this

[79XS11F]

Can anyone direct me as to where I might start my search for a sprocket like this one. It is an 11 tooth sprocket that fits onto a shaft that is different then what I have seen in the past on bikes.
Rob

[xschop]

sprocket

I just got my 14T today from an Ebayer that has alot of XS650 sprockets in different sizes at a good price....
That conversion housing looks like the ????RD350??? chopped up shaft and set in outter bearing.....I am curious how that thing was built. If it has set screws that hold the bearings in.......I would use it as a paperweight.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...3AIT&viewitem=

[xschop]

spline pattern

The smaller the sprocket, the faster the wear on the chain and sprocket.
What size is your rear sprocket?

I've always wondered what the PCD is on the Ducati wheels.....could be adapted to the XS FD's

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ducat...1%7C240%3A1318

[79XS11F]

Hey Chop. The shaft is supported by 2 bearing. A double ball unit just under the seal behind the sprocket and a single ball unit at the rear. I have not seen bearings that run 2 sets of balls beside each other in a single shell before but they were easy to find at SKF. The bearings are pressed into housing and onto the shaft. They are then retained with steel cerclips and a SS ring that is attached at the back side. The bearings will run in a bath of oil. There is a filler cap behind the chain at about the 2 O'Clock position.
But does the center of the sprocket look like the usual arrangement?
Rob

[79XS11F]

The smaller the sprocket, the faster the wear on the chain and sprocket.
What size is your rear sprocket?

Rear is 36 teeth
Rob

[79XS11F]

The shaft has 14 teeth on it. Also how do I determine the chain size for the rear sprocket. Is the chain size, 530, 630 etc based on the thickness of the sprocket?
Rob

[xschop]

36t

I tried a 12T with mt rear 42T.......way too quick and high winding and wore the sprocket down after about 500 miles... The 13T now is still super quick off the line and close to stock FD ratio. I want the feel of the 750FD mod back on the hiway, so I'm going back to a 14T up front.

I see that a 36T rear would require an 11T front to be close to stock XS11 gearing. But you'll see that it will be hard not spinning that rear tire with that ratio when gunning in the street corners. I would suggest some softer rubber for grabs

I got a 530 14T in hand and the thickness is exactly 9mm. Go with 530 chains and sprockets, they are stronger and can handle the torque of our torque monsters.

[79XS11F]

I tried a 12T with mt rear 42T.......way too quick and high winding and wore the sprocket down after about 500 miles... The 13T now is still super quick off the line and close to stock FD ratio. I want the feel of the 750FD mod back on the hiway, so I'm going back to a 14T up front.

I see that a 36T rear would require an 11T front to be close to stock XS11 gearing. But you'll see that it will be hard not spinning that rear tire with that ratio when gunning in the street corners. I would suggest some softer rubber for grabs

I got a 530 14T in hand and the thickness is exactly 9mm. Go with 530 chains and sprockets, they are stronger and can handle the torque of our torque monsters.

Thanks Chop. I have bridgstone BT45s on her right now but there's no doubt I will need to get used to this bike before I find myself going ass over tea kettle. If I find her to jumpy i will change out the rear sprocket because there does not look like there's a lot of room up front for anything larger. I will check the rear sprocket for thickness and perhaps go to the bike shop with the drive unit in my hand for fit. Guess I best order 2 eh
Rob

[xschop]

530 dims

I just reread a post about the 530 chains/sprockets having a 5/8 pitch....

http://www.gizmology.net/sprockets.htm

You can put on a 13t with no modification to your engine case. A 14T just needs @ 1mm lightly skimmed where the case halves meet......no problem. I will post pics when I'm done.....

****EDIT*****
I just remeasured with a digital micrometer and the 530 sprocket is 8.7mm (0.343") thick

[79XS11F]

I just reread a post about the 530 chains/sprockets having a 5/8 pitch....

http://www.gizmology.net/sprockets.htm

You can put on a 13t with no modification to your engine case. A 14T just needs @ 1mm lightly skimmed where the case halves meet......no problem. I will post pics when I'm done.....

Will a 12 or 13 tooth sprocket take the "edge" off the acceleration rate. After all I already have the engine bored out to 1179, headers etc etc. I don't really want a wheelie machine on my hands.

Rob

[xschop]

????

The BIG question on that unit is what keeps the bearings from walking out of the housing?
The shaft splines could be FZ sprocket dimensions????
From all the experimenting of different gear ratios (Shaft and Chain driven XS11's), the perfect ratio for a stock XS11 is 3:1
For what you are doing with the big bore, headers, jetting etc....I would get near the XS750 FD ratio and stick on a 13T up front with your 36T rear (2.76).....This will be one badass hiway bike. In the twisties, you can just keep it in 3rd and 4th gear....
I have always said that whoever does the big bore and has their carbs adjusted accordingly, would own the top speed award with the 2.9 XS750/850 FD ratio.....

[79XS11F]

The BIG question on that unit is what keeps the bearings from walking out of the housing?
The shaft splines could be FZ sprocket dimensions????
From all the experimenting of different gear ratios (Shaft and Chain driven XS11's), the perfect ratio for a stock XS11 is 3:1
For what you are doing with the big bore, headers, jetting etc....I would get near the XS750 FD ratio and stick on a 13T up front with your 36T rear (2.76).....This will be one badass hiway bike. In the twisties, you can just keep it in 3rd and 4th gear....
I have always said that whoever does the big bore and has their carbs adjusted accordingly, would own the top speed award with the 2.9 XS750/850 FD ratio.....

The bearings can't walk out of the housing because there is a lip cast into the housing. The double bearing is pressed on the the shaft from the sprocket end. The shaft has a stop lip on it as well. Then the bearing and shaft is pressed in from the back side until it stops against the lip in the housing. The seal is on the other side of the casing lip. Then the rear bearing is pressed on to the shaft to the other side of the shafts bearing stop and into the housing. Then the SS steel retain ring is attached to the back side of the housing to hold that single bearing in place. Then a cerclip is put on the shaft to also hole the rear bearing in place. I will try to draw a pic.

The engine was already modified from a previous project.
Rob

[79XS11F]

This is how it goes together. The bearing / seal stop lip is however, not that close to the shaft. It is a lip of about 1/8 of an inch.
Rob

[xschop]

drawing

O.K.
Ideally you'd want the inner and outer axial bearings as far apart as possible for longevity's sake of the bearings. The closer they are the faster they wear out.

[79XS11F]

Ya, the distance from the front of the double bearing to the back of the single bearing is just under 2 inches. It's a compact unit. I don't know how long it was in use on the original bike but it was run dry for long enough to dissolve 4 or the balls out of the rear of the double bearing. My friend at the garage who pressed it apart and back together said he never seen anything like it before and knows what it's for. He did not have any concerns so it will be a try it out and see what happens. I'm guessing that the once the shaft is engages fully with the engines output parts that they will also add to its stability.
Rob