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  • DMMs

    I was schooled as an electrical engineer focusing on electronics mainly because of my interest in tinkering. Unfortunately, now I work in the power industry and never get to use what I learned. Now I need a meter and soldering iron to do some work on my new bike and was going to take the oppurtunity to get a nice DMM I could also use for tinkering with analog audio stuff in my spare time. I was wondering if any of you guys had any recommendations along these lines. I am overwhelmed by the options and prices on a lot of meters. I just know we used nice Fluke and Agilent stuff in school and both are really expensive, though typically worth it. I've read both here and elsewhere that some DMMs are too slow for some applications, so I don't want to fork over a lot of cash and have it perform marginally on one of my two applications for it.

    Oh and I can't go too cheap because the first circuit I am going to work on is a vacuum tube one. The thing has to be able to handle some voltage.
    It's pronounced "Joey"

    1979 XS1100 Special

  • #2
    You can get a decent Fluke for 100 or 150, obviously not top of the line, but definitely usable. and if you need something really quick in response, for use in some "older" type circuits (tubes etc) get a decent analog meter, like a Simpson 260 VOM, lots of folks still use them, I for one respect them immensely as it was the gold standard in meters before there was a gold standard, cant go wrong with either choice, or both for that matter. have a nice day and ride safe
    I am the Lorax, I speak for the Trees

    '80 XS1100 SG (It's Evil, Wicked, Mean & Nasty)

    '79 XS1100 F R (IL Barrachino)

    '00 Suzuki Intruder 1400 (La Soccola)

    '77 KZ400s (La Putana)

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    • #3
      meters...

      I'm an electrician, and have been for 35 years. So, when it comes to meters, they're my lifeline. With that said, this has been my experience. I used to think I needed a $350 Fluke... not just for the quality and function, but for the dependability. Then one day, I made the mistake of checking voltage on a lighting contactor that, well let's say, exceeded the limits of my $350 Fluke... (Ahem...) So, I went out and replaced it... chalked it up to stupidity on my part. Then one day, my wonderfully, expensive, brand name replacement Fluke failed to work properly, (lied) and I got it! (In more ways than one!) It decided to buy the farm, and just when I needed it most!

      So, from that day forward, I purchased a $10 UTC33 from my electrical wholesaler, Locke Supply, and it has served me well for the last 5 years. The way I see it, what have I lost if I blow it up? $10? And if a $350 Fluke can lie and say a high voltage circuit is dead when it isn't, then what's the difference except $340?

      I have checked it along side of several other "Major Brand" meters, and it holds it's own just fine. Plus, it gives an audible tone, as well as a reading during continuity checks, which my Fluke didn't.

      Analogs on these old bikes are probably the meter style of choice, for many reasons. But for routine circuit checks, an inexpensive DMM works just as well.

      Heck, even a $5 test light does the trick for most things, (unless your ohming out something, like coils, etc.)

      I've seen many guys blow up their high $ meter by being in continuity mode and forgetting while checking for 240 V.A.C.!

      To each his own, but for me, $ talks. I carry the same UTC33 on my bike.
      I learned, in the world we live in today, money and old brand names don't necessarily dictate or insure a quality product like it used to.
      Regards,
      Bob
      '82 XJ1100J Maxim (has been sold.)

      '79 F "Time Machine"... oh yeah, Baby.... (Sold back to Maximan)

      2011 Kaw Concours 14 ABS

      In the warden's words from Cool Hand Luke;
      "What we have here is a failure to communicate."

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      • #4
        Well it looks like we took the same classes but went separate ways.I've been in the electronics industry for the last 25 years.Please take my word for it.I'm not going to explain myself or hijack your thread by arguing with others.I would recommend the entry level fluke auto ranging meter and for the analog audio an inexpensive oscilloscope.Any solid state,triggered,5 meg or higher scope will work for audio.They're all over the place on ebay and second hand stores.Shoot me a pm if you have questions on witch one to get. Terry
        1980 special (Phyllis)
        1196 10.5 to 1 kit,megacycle cams,shaved head,dynojet carb kit,ported intake and exhaust,mac 4 into 1 exhaust,drilled rotors,ss brake lines,pods,mikes xs green coils,iridium plugs,led lights,throttle lock,progressive shocks,oil cooler,ajustable cam gears,HD valve springs,Vmax tensioner mod

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        • #5
          I always wanted a nice O-scope.
          I had an old Packard Bell dual trace I used when I was building circuits. Full of tubes, and it took 15 minutes to warm up! But I think I got for $10.

          Grainger has a good selection of meters, from cheap to scary expen$$ive.
          The one I got, don't remember the model and it's not in front of me, has auto-ranging, which is nice, and a temp probe also, plus an illuminated display when you want it. I think I paid 50 or 60 bux for it. Still have my old Radio Shack 'Simpson knock off'.

          The analog works best for make-n-break, the DMM for checking values, and digital circuits.

          One thing about Grainger: Just pick a large industrial outfit in the area and tell them you are picking up for them. Most times they don't ask for ID, and you get wholesale prices. I still have the card from 3 jobs ago, and never have had to show it to them. YMMV
          XS1100SF
          XS1100F

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