Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Paint

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Paint

    I am ready to finally put a color on my XJ1100 and I have a few questions. First of all, Painting is very new to me. I primed the tank and side covers with no problem. I had no bad paint reactions or dripping ect... I want to use a "basecoat - Clearcoat" process. How much paint and clear coat could I expect to use? Is there a certain amount of coats I will need to put on of each? How long should I wait between coats? Should sanding be done between coats of both paint and clear?
    What grit sandpaper should I be using?
    Sorry for the post here but I can't seem to find the paint forum.
    Thanks
    Rob
    Rob
    82 XJ1100
    Stock..With a few cosmetic changes.
    Current Project..Dad's 81 1100 Special



    http://s727.photobucket.com/albums/ww272/RiderXJ/

  • #2
    Rob, The first question is what type of paint are you using? do you have a spray rig, or is it rattle can?
    If a spray rig, it will depend on the reducer you have, and how fast it is. I did two base coats and about four clear coats. If you want a really deep look, but a little base color in the first clear coat, if it's a spray rig. I also used a hardener with my clear coat, so it would NOT react to fuel.
    Wet sand between coats with a BLOCK and 800 grit to take down any orange peel. Do this no matter what paint you use, as it WILL make the paint look deeper and smoother.
    Ray Matteis
    KE6NHG
    XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
    XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!

    Comment


    • #3
      Rob, Just to add to what Rob/DiverRay said - if you're using a gun and a paint system, make sure the reducer is right for the ambient temperature. Generally it's faster reducer for cooler temps, but it should say on the can. My $.02
      I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.

      '79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines

      Comment


      • #4
        The easiest to use is supposed to be Polyurethane.

        We are using Dupont Chromabase on Derwat's Special in the next few days, can let you know how it goes.

        The paint was $98/qt, $30/qt for medium reducer (basemaker), $55/qt for Clearcoat and hardener. (CDN) This was for Black metallic. Colors are about $60/qt more.

        I also recommend that you use the matching Primer/sealer, but that's just me.

        You shouldn't need more than a quart to do a whole bike (Derwat has a full fairing, but no lowers), tank and sidecovers.

        You will want to do at least 3 coats. You do two, then, if necessary, repair any blemishes, then a 3rd coat. if you need more you can. From what I have read, they do not recommend sanding Chromabase, between coats, unless you really know what you are doing.

        Remember, the clear is what makes it shiny.

        You can use an HP sprayer, but most recommend the newer LPHV types, as you waste less paint. Make sure you use a cleaner like Dupont's Wipe'n'Wash, to remove oil, grease, and fingerprints, and tack cloths to get rid of any dust before you paint. Use as dust free an area as you can come up with.

        Most auto paints can be recoated in about 15 minutes, and they recommend (for CB) you wait 1/2 hour between the last color coat, and the first clear coat.

        For Chromabase, there is no hardener used in the color coat, just in the primer and clear.
        Last edited by Crazcnuk; 04-28-2009, 02:05 AM.
        Nice day, if it doesn't rain...

        '05 ST1300
        '83 502/502 Monte Carlo for sale/trade

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Crazcnuk View Post
          For Chromabase, there is no hardener used in the color coat, just in the primer and clear.
          If it's good paint that most likely means I can't get it, since Kalifornia doesn't let us have any good stuff (and next their going to outlaw black (because it absorbs too much heat they say)). If I want something gas proof for my tank I have to use a 2 part, AND the stuff they allow in Ca just isn't all that good.

          California sucks! Well except for the all year round riding weather.
          Cy

          1980 XS1100G (Brutus) w/81H Engine
          Duplicolor Mirage Paint Job (Purple/Green)
          Vetter Windjammer IV
          Vetter hard bags & Trunk
          OEM Luggage Rack
          Jardine Spaghetti 4-2 exhaust system
          Spade Fuse Box
          Turn Signal Auto Cancel Mod
          750 FD Mod
          TC Spin on Oil Filter Adapter (temp removed)
          XJ1100 Front Footpegs
          XJ1100 Shocks

          I was always taught to respect my elders, but it keeps getting harder to find one.

          Comment


          • #6
            Sounds like a good excuse to buzz to vegas and pick up some paint!

            All the body shops around here use water based paints now. Getting solvent based paint you can use at home is getting harder and harder (expensive too).

            We were looking at polyurethane paints, though, on Colorrite which is in California?

            www.colorrite.com
            Nice day, if it doesn't rain...

            '05 ST1300
            '83 502/502 Monte Carlo for sale/trade

            Comment

            Working...
            X