Torquing a castlenut

[DGXSER]

Here is the question, when torquing a castlenut which will have a cotter pin inserted, and the hole does not line up when you reach the specified torque, do you overtighten until it lines up, or loosen it to a spot where it lines up?

While it seems kinda simple and basic, it has always bugged me and wanted to know what those in the know have to say. It seems overtightening could cause problems, just as loosening it back out could.

[FJ111200]

When it comes to castlenuts i don't use the torque wrench, just tighten up, check when getting near to said position, and then just nip up a bit more to insert the split pin. Like you say, i've heard loosening a bit can be a bad thing. As long as it's not too tight as to stop rotation of the wheel should be alright.

[boyat68]

In the military, we were taught to bring the castle nut up to the point that a cotter key (pin) could just slide through the slot, and hole. The key went through both slots and clipped off even at the bottom of the nut and one leg of the key bent up to prevent the key from sliding out. There is no torque specifications on a castle nut as it is correctly positioned when the hole and slot are lined up to accept the key.

[DGXSER]

My most recent exposure was my front wheel, which specifies a torque of 76 ft-lbs. The same thing somewhat occurred on my clutch nut IIRC rated for 51 ft-lbs. and has locking tabs.

It has occurred on many devices and implements I have owned and it always stirs in my mind should I tighten or loosen to make this line up. Tightening, depending on how aggressive the thread is, seems to really add some torque some times. Last one I recall was the ball joints on my truck. Specifically say to tighten up to a torque then loosen, and tighten to a lesser torque. Now which way to go when it does not hit?

Maybe I am over analyzing like usual, but just a little "that always bugs me" question.

[Erik the Red]

Overanalyzers unite!

Maybe I am over analyzing like usual, but just a little "that always bugs me" question.

I am by no means 'in the know', but what I do is to tighten it to the torque spec. and then see how far to either side I'd have to go to get things to align. If it's only a little tighter, I'll do that, otherwise I loosen.

I'm paranoid of snapping something off somehow. The pin will hold the castle nut on, no matter what it's torqued to. So get it close enough, and remember to bend the legs of the pin around the bolt, and you should be good.

Rebuttal? Agreement? Continue the overanalyzification. (As a matter of fact, yes, I did just make that up. But it's origins are based on a steadfast rule of noun verbification. )

[DiverRay]

A lot depends on WHAT the castle nut is holding. Taper roller bearings, you need to tighten it. For a ball joint, you also need it tight. The ball bearings in front and rear tires, you do NOT want it too tight, as it will cause premature wear. JMHO

[egsols]

Just thinking out loud, but what if you set it to the spec torque and say you are a tad short of the hole. Put the torque wrench back on and check the torque to get it lined up. I know it may take a bit of trial and error but that will tell you how much extra torque you are putting on it.

Like has been said, the pin will hold the nut in position. If it is too tight then premature bearing wear can occur, however, it would be interesting to see how much torque is added to get it lined up.

[DenyP]

I was taught to run it up to torque, then back it off to insert the key. This is what I do and have been doing so for many many years.

Deny

[TopCatGr58]

The same thing somewhat occurred on my clutch nut IIRC rated for 51 ft-lbs. and has locking tabs.

Maybe I am over analyzing like usual, but just a little "that always bugs me" question.

Hey DG,

The clutch's locking tabs are bendable, and so you should have bent them FLAT first, torqued the clutch nut, and then bent the tabs back up on whatever edge/side you could bend the tab up against. Only needs one tab bent up, but if it's around a corner, just bend it up snug bending it to conform to the corner.

I too, prefer tighter than looser, but like Ray said, depends on the application and type of bearings!
T.C.

[Big Daddy Funk]

back off

It's been a while since trade school but I would agree with Deny. I never had an issue with backing the nut off to line things up. I have never given much thought, It's just one of those things that got drilled into apprentices heads.

[Ivan]

If it don't line up at the torque, put a washer under it, then try.

[DGXSER]

TC, I do recall that about the clutch nut, and I did flatten it, apparently my memory is worse than I thought.

Most things I tend to tighten abit more. I may go back and rework the front wheel though, I tightened it and I know it was quite a bit more than the rated torque, it probably would have been much shorter to go back then forward. Something else to do while it is diving into the negative numbers for the next few days.

Ivan, I had never thought of that. Interesting idea for sure.

With all the differing concepts at least I don't feel quite as...uninformed.

[79XS11F]

On both the front and back axle nuts I have always gone to the spec torque in 2 steps and the holes line up within an RCH so I do not back them off. When the misalignment is an RCH I will just use a slightly smaller DIA pin so long as the head of the pin will not fall through. I fold The longer leg of the pin parallel to the axle and up or down over the end of the axle. never had an issue doing it this way.
Rob

[Rasputin]

Rch

Awww man. I just know someone is gonta ask what a RCH is and I aint gonta be the one explaining that one. I thought it was funny but SWMBO thought it was not. Oh well.

[CatatonicBug]

Awww man. I just know someone is gonta ask what a RCH is and I aint gonta be the one explaining that one. I thought it was funny but SWMBO thought it was not. Oh well.

LOL... I actually had to look it up! Google is a wonderful thing!