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Anyone heard of the green light changer ?

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  • #16
    That mean it's OK to ignore that big red sticker that says "Danger do not disassemble this unit"? Or doesn't a slow agonising from radiation poisoning death scare you?
    Fastmover
    "Just plant us in the damn garden with the stupid
    lion". SHL
    78 XS1100e

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    • #17
      Hey Axel,

      It'll be a while now, but next time you're at one of those lights try putting your side stand down right on the cut line for the pad. I read somewhere about it and when I tried it worked for me.
      Ernie
      79XS1100SF (no longer naked, now a bagger)
      (Improving with age, the bike that is)

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      • #18
        A good majority of the intersections on my commute to work are the induction loop type and i have had very good luck with pulsing the starter. Not sure if it actually works or if it is just fluke.
        K. Johnson
        -1978 XS750SF - brought back from the dead with carb
        triple clean and boots
        -1982 XJ1100J - brought back from the dead by
        replacing motor after throwing #4 rod
        -1985 XJ750XN - shim job, oil change, ride. not bad for
        $500 including new rear tire.

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        • #19
          I roll up and place with both wheels on the cut line. Only one light I can remember giving me trouble. it was 1 AM and the damn light would not change. Instead of blowing through the light, I went through the gas station at that corner. I got pulled over and ticketed for doing that!

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          • #20
            In NJ you dont need magnets...heck do what everyone else does...just blow through the red light...its par for the course hereKinda like demolition derby...gotta weed out as many cagers as possible
            1980 XS650G Special-Two
            1993 Honda ST1100

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            • #21
              On second thought, who would buy a green light changer, i'd rather have a red light changer

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              • #22
                Originally posted by kjohnson View Post
                A good majority of the intersections on my commute to work are the induction loop type and i have had very good luck with pulsing the starter. Not sure if it actually works or if it is just fluke.
                kjohnson is right. As best I can remember, here's what my Traffic Engineering prof told us back in the day...

                At a traffic signal, that square cut in the pavement sealed with tar has a wire in it. Whenever there is a closed loop of wire, it will have a current induced (hence induction loop) along it when a big enough chunk of metal enters it. Bikes don't always have enough mass to do this.

                When you hit your bike's starter button, the starter spins, causing an electromagnetic field momentarily. This resulting field will usually be enough to induce a current in the wire, thereby sending a signal to the signal to signal you to go.

                I'm not sure I've stated all the physics correctly (feel free to correct me if I'm wrong), but bottom line is that if the light's not sensing you, turning the bike off and then back on (or probably just blipping the starter) will typically get it to turn green. I'd say that the closer you are to the wire, the better. ...Cheaper and easier than buying and mounting a magnet to your bike.
                -Do what makes you happy.

                '79 Honda CB 750 K (2)
                '78 XS 11 E - "Rhona"
                ...and a 2nd E, for the goodies on it.

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                • #23
                  Alternately

                  Place the right side engine case over the wire. Magnetic field in the alternator and the output wiring will have the best chance of inducting a current in the wire. What it's really looking for is a change in the resistance values of the current in the wire.
                  You can't stay young forever, but you can be immature for the rest of your life...

                  '78E "Pathfinder" Show bike...
                  Lovingly restored by Dave Delzell
                  Drilled airbox
                  Tkat fork brace
                  Hardly mufflers
                  late model carbs
                  Newer style fuses
                  Oil pressure guage
                  Custom security system
                  Stainless braid brake lines

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