Just a question for you AUTO Mechs?

[TopCatGr58]

Hey folks,

SWMBO has a 2003 Hyundai Santa Fe with a 2.7 V-6, and it's timing belt is at 67K miles. So....I need to change it!

I've had to change timing belts before, did it 3 times on our old '84 Escort at ~30k, 60K, 90k!

I don't have a manual! But I've found the Online version that Hyundai offers, already signed up, and have accessed it. HOWEVER the quality of their photos/diagrams for it SUCK!!

I also found a procedure guide on the AUTOZONE parts site online! But their diagram/procedure is for the 3.5 DOHC type engine.

I'm not looking/asking for any kind of step by step guide, just for any pointers or pitfalls in the process that I need to watch out for!

The instructions talk about a pin in the tensioner to hold it back until the belt is routed. One set of inst. mentioned needing to actually set the tension with a torque wrench on the tensioner....like 4 ft lbs???

I'll be doing this job this weekend, thanks in advance!
T.C.

[bikerphil]

timing belt

Hey TC, I've been working on cars all my life, even before bikes. What I would do is either pick up the Haynes manual for $20 at the parts store (good to have anyway) or at least pop the plastic off it in the store and read that section (BTDT). Don't know that motor off hand, but it's probably an interference motor.

[rneal55555]

Many manual are available online at the link below, yours is not one of them however, THe Motorcycle stuff is in the small engine section. Username and password are both library.

http://search.ebscohost.com/Communit...33503&return=y

+1 on what bikerphil said, If you don't want to spring for the book many public libraries have them you can check out or copy.

[Crazcnuk]

" did it 3 times on our old '84 Escort at ~30k, 60K, 90k!"

Yikes!!

Why? I changed the one on my '96 Escort, once in 214,000kms! (132,000 miles)

Changed it at ~135,000kms (84,000 miles)

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Crazcnuk,

Perhaps 12 year NEWER technology on your version was part of it! I had to drill a hole thru the right wheel well so that I could access the crank shaft pulley bolt WITHOUT pulling the engine. Put the wrench on it, and tap the engine and it would spin loose lickity split! Thankfully Ford had configured the engine so that the pistons wouldn't hit the valves when the belts broke. The manual said to check at 30K and replace at 60k, but they kept breaking at ~30k intervals....the knobs would just spin off at the crank when you try to start it!? Poor/less quality belts back then also??
T.C.

[Crazcnuk]

Exactly, since the engine is a no-hit one, no point in changeing the belt until it breaks!

Mine didn't break, though, but it was 30k past it's designated change point. I had some warranty work done, and they changed the belt at the same time.

[olebiker]

I broke mine at 80 miles an hour in the fast lane of a three lane wide section of the 401. Good thing it was free wheeling or there would have been crap all over.

[xs11jack]

Mitchell Manuals

Cat, go to your local library and look in the reference section. In the automotive section will be some large car manuals called Mitchell manuals. These are the ones mechanics use. In my local library you can't check them out, but the librarians look the other way when you use the copy machine on the manuals. They realize we aren't copying them to make a living, we are just doityourselfers.(I think I invented a new word)
Jack (doityourselfer) Smith

[TopCatGr58]

Update, job done!!

Hey folks,

Just wanted to post an update, we all like happy endings!

There isn't a Haynes type manual available for it YET, coming soon according to the master guide, but because the vehicle is fairly new, it's not in print YET!

I didn't make it to the library, but figured if it wasn't in print, I wouldn't find anything there either! SO...I relied on my printouts from the Hyundai site, along with my previous experiences!

The hardest part was trying to remove the crankshaft pulley and bolt. It was on with 140-150 ft/lbs of torque! Regrettably, they didn't have any slots/holes in the pulley to put a rod into for making a wedge! My wimpy Harbor Freight impact wrench didn't do a thing! I remembered a trick from my old Escort days, and Hyundai even put a nice slot in the wheel well shroud for easier access to the pulley bolt. I put a big wrench and 22mm socket on the bolt, wedged the wrench against the frame and then tapped the engine starter motor to turn the engine CW to loosen the bolt CCW. However, the starter motor and crank just twisted the head off of the 1/2" to 3/8" drive/socket adapter!!

SO...I went back to the auto store and bought a 275 ft/lb rated Hausfeld/Campbell air impact wrench, and with a few extra squirts of PB Blaster, was FINALLY able to get the bolt loose!!

Speaking of AUTO TENSIONERS, this has one for the timing belt, but it's a fancy hydraulic damped/spring loaded one! I removed it, then compressed the piston with my vice, and inserted a little brad nail into the supplied pin holes to secure it in place for reinstallation. Got the belt on, timing marks ligned up, put the tensioner on, releasing the pin which pushes against the pulley, and crankshaft pulley back on, but then rotated the crank 2 times for a final check of the timing marks, spot on!!

Buttoned it all back up, and fired it up, drove it around the block, working just fine!!

I had planned to do the spark plugs while I was in there, BUT, found out that I have to remove the INTAKE MANIFOLD to get to the rear bank of 3 plugs on this V-6 engine!!! What friggin' ENGINEER designs an engine without easy access to the spark plugs, much less having to remove the intake manifold for it? The OWNER'S MANUAL in the "do it yourself section" just states it's recommended to take the vehicle to a certified service center to change the spark plugs! I'll have to wait until I get a manifold gasket set!

OH well, still saved about $600 compared to what the dealer was going to charge! Wishing everyone else happy successful wrenching!
T.C.

[egsols]

What friggin' ENGINEER designs an engine without easy access to the spark plugs

Hmmmm let me see, oh yeah GM has a couple of them, yup, Ford employs a few, some more over there in the Crysler barn. What with these new fangled 100000km plugs its not the intake you have to worry about....its the %$##$^ head gasket when they have to pull the head due to the frozen plugs left in there cause no one changes them (till its too late)...heck they're good for 100k and I'm only leasing the damn thing.

Glad to hear you made out okay.

[thewiz]

"...found out that I have to remove the INTAKE MANIFOLD to get to the rear bank of 3

Yup ... BT,DT .... the Ford Rangers and Mazda B2500s need the intake removed to replace the left bank of spark plugs as well.

Did one of these a while back ... wasn't too bad of a job though. IIRC, was only the upper section of the intake.

The thought of removing a manifold to change plugs did initially offend my "mechanical sensibilities" however, much as it has yours. Makes us appreciate our beloved 11s

[TopCatGr58]

Well,

I actually mispoke, it's the fuel injector intake plenum assembly, called the surge tank that then bolts onto the intake manifold. Still requires unbolting, and a replacement gasket after it's all done, along with disconnecting the fuel lines, etc.!! I've got to put that gasket on order, so will do it next weekend.

The thing is I guess that when a person was to take it in for it's 60K mile service, since the plugs are also 60K, you replace the timing belt and plugs at the same time/service.

Hopefully it'll last another 60K before I have to do it again!?
T.C.