New Member

[al_ngl]

I've just purchased a 1979 XS eleven, F, I think. It has parts which seem to be from both F and SF models, though. I suppose I can check the Vin number. It has ~7600 miles, and I got it for $800, which seemed like a good deal. This is my first road bike, and is surprisingly easy to learn on. I had only ridden a couple road bikes and dirt bikes before this one, but I picked up the XS eleven pretty easy.

I hope to learn a lot about the Yamaha 1100s, and that's why I joined this forum.

[Montreux_Blue]

You gotta show pictures, I want to see what $800 dollars looks like! If it's running and rides good then it's totally worth it.

[prometheus578]

$800 is a good deal.. about average.
Serial Numbers:
http://www.xs11.com/specifications/serialno.shtml

[al_ngl]

Thanks for the Vin decoder. It is a 79 F, like I thought. It just has the headlight and adjustable suspension from the SF.

It has tires that are about 6 months/300miles old, because the guy hasn't hardly ridden since he got his girlfriend pregnant. It will need new brake rotors and pads soon, and spark plugs, but mechanically it is very good. I changed the oil and filter right after purchase, and checked plugs and other general stuff. I knew the carbs had been cleaned and tuned, and the timing was adjusted. After cleaning the plugs, it was super smooth.

I put aftermarket signals on the front, but for some reason they don't blink when the engine is running, just when it isn't running. They just stay lit. I have the dual filament type, which I assume was a conversion by the previous owner.

As for it's condition, there is little rust, the suspension is in good shape, and the paint on the tank is good, just has swirls from being washed with something abrasive.

[prometheus578]

"Interesting."

The front lights on the '79F are dual element lights.
Now then....
These bike, contrary to popular belief, do NOT have a weak charging system.
They just have a charging system that does what it's supposed to do... but can do little more.
(How's that for double-talk)
Anyway...
Let's say you have a weak battery...

"You have a weak battery."

Now, that being said... here's what happens sometimes.
You turn the ignition on. The front running lights come on, as they should. You try the blinkies, and they work, too.
Now, you start the bike... but find that the turn signals no longer flash.
What has happened is... bike runs, but there's not enough juice left to fire the flasher unit.
This sometimes occurs at idle, for when you rev the engine, the charging system kicks in, provides more juice, and things start to flash once again.
This may not be the case... in your case...., but I've seen it before.
You weren't too specific... but do you mean that they also don't flash when you're at a higher RPM... like when you're riding?
Then the problem would be something else.

[al_ngl]

At any rpm range the blinkers don't blink. I do think it is probably a battery thing though, because the battery was dead a couple days ago and it was only on 2 amp charger for a couple hours.

[mason79]

welcome these bikes are bitchin and the group here is even more so...

[prometheus578]

Are these new lights that you put on LEDs?
LEDs don't draw enough current to trigger(heat up the element) in the flasher unit.
If they are LED's you'll need to go to the auto parts store and buy an "electronic" flasher unit.
You'll lose the "self cancelling" turn signals with an electronic unit, but there's really no easy way around that.

I know what you wrote earlier... about them only blinking when it's not running....
So, they'll blink when the bike is not running, but won't blink when it is running, at any RPM. Is that correct?

[al_ngl]

Yes that is correct, and no they aren't LEDs. May they be low current, or something dumb like that? They were the only three wire signals at the bike shop. Made by Lockhart Phillips. Should I buy an electronic flasher anyway? How do I convert it?

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Al,

Congrats on your acquisition, and welcome to Xsive land!

First, tires can look good/young but actually be many years old. There is a mark on the tire in an oval raised pattern, should be 4 numbers, it's the date stamp of WHEN the tire was made. The first 2 #'s are the week (01-52), the last 2 are the Year date, so check it out, you may be surprised! The rubber gets old/hardened and makes for a rougher ride, as well as less grip on the road, as well as potential for tire failure due to separation!

As Prom stated, the F does have running lights up front, so the lights you would have needed to put on to keep the running light feature is a 3 wire designed, running, turn, and ground. Aside from the lack of current draw with LED's another problem is that due to the single turn signal indicator on the early model XS's, you get power bleed across the indicator to the OTHER side and they will blink at the same time. Also, the grounds can get corroded, especially on the inside of the rear fender. Another ground point folks don't see is the engine to frame just above the middle drive unit and below the battery compartment.

Aside from changing the engine oil and filter, you need to at least inspect and check the fluid levels in the middle and final drives, there's a tech tip on making your own dipstick if you didn't get the OEM one with the bike's tool kit!

There's lots of info in the tech tips, several new ones by scrolling down from the main forum page, not just the link in the left yellow column!!
T.C.

[al_ngl]

Thanks. I'll definitely check the tire age and middle and final gear oil next time I can.

I found some bussmann flashers here

But there are a bunch on that page, which one would hook up correctly? I noticed the fuse for the signals is 20A stock, so I'm guessing I need one of the 12.6A ones?

[DiverRay]

I would NOT worry about the flasher at the moment. If the flasher works with the engine off, but not running, you have a different problem. Do as Prom and TC say, and check all the ground and wires. Be sure the ground wire off the "new" lights ARE grounded, and you have the "bright" side of the bulb connected to the flasher, and NOT the "running" light side.

[al_ngl]

I checked last night to make sure that the bright side was for the flashers, and it was.

As for the ground, where can I find it? I don't want to trace the wire if I don't have to. I have a dealer service manual, but the only things I don't understand are the gibberish wiring diagrams, which don't correspond to the right color of wire at the turn signals. The signals are very bright with the engine running or off, so I wouldn't think of ground as a problem. I'll check nonetheless. I know the flasher will need replaced eventually though, because it flashes very slowly. About 50 flashes per minute.

And I'll get pictures when I get a card reader, or find mine

[al_ngl]

Just remembered, when I bought the bike and it just had bare bulbs for turn signals, they did flash, and if I plug them in now they flash. but they were bulbs that go in the fairing, and looked like OEM parts.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Al,

We're getting an incomplete picture here?

Wiring, green left signal, brown right signal, blue running lights, and black ground.

What aftermarket signals did you put on?? Sounds like they take standard bulbs...the 1157 is the dual filament run/turn signal type, the 1156 is single filament turn only type.

The OEM bulbs use 27 watts each, 2.25 amps each, 4.5 per side, but it's the THERMAL flasher that uses the amperage. When I put LEDs on mine with electronic flasher, I put in a 10A fuse instead because the LEDs only draw 0.3amps each!!
T.C.