Next Project----PAINT!

[birch]

Well--tires are done, clutch is done, brakes are done, and coils are done. Now I am going to attempt to give her a paint job. This project will not be started for a few weeks so it is no rush to get all the answers tonight. I want to paint it just one color and not pinstripes etc... I am thinking either an electric blue, or burnt orange color.

There is a big problem I am facing. I have no idea how to mix, spray, and clearcoat paint. I have just never done it. I did a few of my dirt bikes with a rattle can, but I want something a little better for my XS. So, here is a list of my I don't knows:

Tank, seat trim, side covers, and cafe' racer style front faring.

1. Can I use that commercial stripper stuff on all parts and pieces, or only the tank. Faring is fiberglass, covers are plastic, seat rail is metal, but the bubble on the back is plastic?

2. If I cannot, would you suggest just a D.A Sander and some light paper to rough it up a little?

3. How much paint should I buy?

4. What kind of paint should I buy. I know some paint requires a catalyst and other "types" do not. What type of paint would you suggest?

5. Do you guys give them a series of thin coats, or do you lay it on thick for a couple of coats?

6. What kind of clearcoat works with what types of paint. Does clearcoat need a catalyst?

7. What is the ratio of paint to thinner?

Thanks for any amount of information you can give.

[fredintoon]

Fizz away!

Hi Birch,
first, what do you have to spray paint with? If you do not already have an air compressor & paint gun there is a less costly way to go:-
http://www.prevalspraygun.com/
I'd never heard of Preval until the gadget was mentioned on another list and have no idea how well they work.
Q1) Paint stripper is strictly for metal parts, those chemicals have no idea where paint stops & plastic starts.
Q2) Key the existing paint on the plastic bits by hand using 320 thru 400 thru 600 wet or dry paper used wet with warm soapy water. Use it dry and it paint-clogs real quick.
Q3) The smallest can of spray paint you can buy is a pint for colour and a quart for primer-surfacer. That should be enough to paint a bike.
Q4) A 2-part paint for sure, they are far tougher & gasoline-proof than a single part paint. Talk to your paint man about what you hope to achieve.
Q5) Several thin coats is best as that way there is less risk that the paint "curtains"
Q6 & Q7) Again, talk to your paint man,
he will advise you as to which is compatible with what, how to mix it and how much thinner (they call it "extender" these days) to use.
Note:- base/clear paint systems use a semi-matte colour coat under the clear coat rather than the high-gloss colour you'd use if you were not using a clear coat. I have a personal bias against base/clear because my aging eyesight can't see the clear going on until it starts to curtain and that'll spoil your entire day. But WTF, if your eyes are better than mine, go for a base/clear system.
And finally, use a good quality breathing mask. Inhaling that stuff will rip your lungs out.

[Paintman]

make it shiny

Hi Birch if ya have any questions feel free to PM ive been painting a long time good luck
John

[birch]

I have an air compressor and a dehumidifier. The compressor came with a crappy little gun. I think it will work.

I went to advanced auto last night and they have a one stage paint that requires no catalyst. It is an automotive based paint that the clerk says works well.

Does anyone know if the one stage paint has a nice gloss without a clearcoat. It is called "performance blue" and is similar to the new mustang blue.

I looked at Top Cat's post and my project will in no way turn out anything like that. I just want it to look presentable, and not showable.

[fredintoon]

And what does he know?

Hi Birch,
If this is your first attempt at using your 'crappy little gun" pick something you are not fond of to practice on before you attempt spraying your bike parts. And thoroughly clean that gun immediately after each use.
When I said, "talk to your paint man" I didn't mean the clerk at Advanced Auto. Talk to a real expert at a real automotive paint shop. A single part paint may well have an OK resistance to gasoline but 2-part paints have a far better reputation for that.
A gloss paint will be just as shiny as a base/clear but it won't have the "depth" that the outer transparent layer gives to a base/clear finish. IMHO at 5' away you can't see the difference. You can see runs and sags (that I usually get with clearcoat) from further away than that & wet-sanding them out is a tedious business.

[birch]

Thanks Fred.

Yah, I will surely talk to other people, but like in here, I love getting as many opinions as possible. My advanced auto guy is usually right on, but I didnt even ask about gas stain discoloration. That is a good one!

I sprayed gelcoat for a fiberglass plant for alot of years. I know cleaning, but I also know that gelcoat is a completely different texture that enamal paint. I will practice.