Carbs

[trbig]

doesn't generate the heat that takes away the hardness.

How hard does it have to be to take out brass??



Tod

[fredintoon]

Grinders rule

"Better to cut the screwdrivers with a file. Easier to keep it square and doesn't generate the heat that takes away the hardness."
Hi Dick,
nobody said you didn't need to be careful when doing it, eh?
I bought this 1 gallon stainless steel bucket for 1/2 price. It's full of cold water and sits below my bench grinder stand. Grind a for just a bit then quench. Repeat.
A screwdriver you can easily re-shape with a file ain't worth owning.

[red bandit]

Save yourself a BUNCH of screwing around trying to make a screwdriver fit. Buy a #1 left twist easyout/screw extractor. You can have all 4 pilots out before you come close to haveing that screwdriver made.

[81xsproject]

I have done both and I can tell you that the #1 easy out could handle the torque to break the pilots lose. Fred's custom screwdriver bit in the drill press beats all.

[red bandit]

And everybody has a grinder and a drillpress in their garage...Right!

[81xsproject]

Got my drill press off cragslist for $40. Only reason I can afford one.

[fredintoon]

"And everybody has a grinder and a drillpress in their garage...Right!"

Hi Bandit,
anyone who has to tend to a 30 year old motorcycle really should have. Anna air compressor anna welding set anna - - -
No effin' room for a lathe but I gotta friend with one.

[CarolynS]

Look what I started!!!

All good advice from all good sources!
Wildkat-where did John get the handlebar risers? I was thinking of looking around for something that would work, but if he has a source for that, all the better.
I ended up working all weekend so I didn't get a chance to get to the bike. However, since I'm going to end up working all weekend again, I may take tomorrow or Wednesday off to do it then.

[Wildkat]

Here you go...

GenMar
This place sells them... but if you can hold out.. sometimes E-bay has them MUCH less expensive... and if you put out an APB in the parts wanted forum... sometimes they pop up around here too...

Hurry up Woman! We want pics!

[TopCatGr58]

Tease, Tease!!!

Just like a women to tease US!!! All this talk about doing your carbs and then you come up with some lame excuse about having to actually WORK all weekend!! :P

I actually worked on my bike this past weekend, getting it ready for it's yearly vehicle inspection. I had done some work on the rear wheel trying to shim the hub with some 2mm washers to try to get it from rubbing against the driveshaft side....seeings how I had put on a larger than OEM recommended rear tire!

After putting it together, I had to drop my muffler(aftermarket 4-1) to get the rear wheel off and back on, I then fired it up.....
forgetting that I hadn't put the muffler back on! It's amazing how loud open 4-1 headers are, not to mention the reverberation in the garage!!!

But during this brief running, after shutting it down, I noticed I had some fuel dripping from my #1 carb! I had some experience with this from my #2 carb last year due to a poorly repaired broken float post, tilted float, and sticking float/needle combo....which I had repaired, but this was the #1 carb!!! So....I pulled the bank off.....easily and quickly since I have Indy Pods! I had pre-ordered the viton tipped needle valves from Mikes XS, so I had them ready to go in.

As I removed the bowls, even though I run inline filters, and had put on new gray fuel lines 8 years ago, I found some fine crud/debris in the bowls!?!? Most likely it was some of this that was wedging between the float needle and seat. However, when I looked closely at the viton tips, there was a small groove worn into them! After 8 years, I guess they were due! Replaced them ALL. When I got to the #2 carb, I was surprised to find the J-B Weld material had "rubberized", and the post was loose!?

I cleaned it up, and reapplied some fresh JB Weld....but this stuff I had was JB Weld QUICK? Not sure if it is much different, but it's supposed to set up like in 4 minutes, cures in 4 hours vs. the 24 hours for OEM JB Weld! I had been told that JB Weld was impervious to fuel! But I wonder if something like SEAFOAM can cause it to break down?? I let it set up overnight, put it all back together the next day, and put them back on, fired right up, rode just fine, and NO LEAKS!! Was able to pass inspection, got it retagged and insured for another year!

Now I'm hoping to get my XJ tank conversion and CUSTOM HOME DONE PAINTing done in time for XS East!! Just a little tease!
T.C.

[xsilerating]

PS I wasn't aware there was a '70 XS1100 standard........

Hmmm, I was curious about that also but figured it was one of them 'rare' models like the 1988 MNS that was recently on ebay .

[xsilerating]

Timing is everything...

I was trying to figure out where to post a question relating to risers when, lo and behold, the subject appeared right before my eyes.

However, being unfamiliar with risers and bar clamp layouts in general, with respect to the "GenMar" risers suggested by Kat, I imagine that either of the X 102/103/104 models would be a satisfactory choice for the XS11?

As for 'other' manufacturers of risers, would any brand suffice providing that the same twin clamp layout is used?

Any additional information/restrictions/concerns/advice etc. would be appreciated.

[John]

The style Kat suggested works great for the way our bikes are set up. We have adjustable back rests and like to lean back on them, so the barback style works best for us.
Most any style of riser will work, as long as it is made fpr 7/8 bars.
I did a lot of web searching for risers and that was the only manufacturer that offered some for something other than h-d's.

[CarolynS]

Okay, Okay....

I did the carbs today. Sorry to say nothing has changed. Still won't start, will turn, but won't catch and run.
The carbs were incredibly easy, thanks to the forum and the wonderful people here-you know who you are! I don't know what to do now. I'm really hoping I'm not screwed! I have a kid that wants to buy the 79. I don't really want to sell it. I may need the motor by the sounds of it. I really hate to have the numbers not match anymore. It's a source of pride for me to have an original vehicle.
What suggestions do you have? We have spark, we have clean carbs-not synched-but that shouldn't matter, we have fuel. What the H*$@ can it be?????? It will turn over like crazy, but not actually start. An occasional "POP" is all I get. At least the fuel isn't backing up into the air filter anymore, so progress was made. I so want the bike to start. I'm dying to ride it! Even just a little bit around the yard. We checked #1 and #4 for compression-it was getting late and I was pooped-and the needle didn't even move. There's NOTHING! I don't know what else to do but pull the valve cover and check things out up there.
Sorry about the tease T.C., but life gets in the way sometimes...I'm working all weekend and will be checking the bike out tomorrow, in heels if necessary. I want to figure this out and get it going.
Any help is appreciated!
Thanks, Guys!

[DiverRay]

I KNOW you are sleeping as I post this, so you should be fresh.
Pull all four plugs, hold throttle in wide open position and retry the compression test. Check 1 and 2 first, as they are on the same side. If you don't get anything, put just a LITTLE oil in the plug hole, and try again. If this makes a difference, you may need rings. if not, time to pull the valve cover, and look at the valve train.
I would start with the index pointer on the "T" mark at the crank, and see if the cams are still lined up per the book. You may have to turn the crank one more time to line them up. If they don't line, the cams are out of time, and you may have bent valves.
Let us know,,,