Need help with gas dryer

[81xsproject]

Anyone know anything about appliance repair?

I have a gas dryer that tumbles but no heat. I am trying to do this myself, but will call a service man if I must.

[Doo-Daa]

On a gas dryer, it's usually only a couple of parts.

There are two T-Stats, and operating one, and an Emergency shutdown one. Both of these are located in the exhaust side of the dryer air duct. After removing power and gas from the machine, remove one side of the wire connections, then test for continuity across the T-Stat. They should both read across. If one is open (infinity), then taht one is bad.

The second part is the Igniter. This part is right next to the gas nozzle, in the dryer's burner, (usually has a heat resistant lead to it, two wires, both white, covered in a cloth like material). A visual inspection usually shows an uninterupted path for current to flow (no breaks) (DON'T TOUCH THE SHINY STUFF, AND IT'S FRAGILE!!!)

The curcuit applies power through the timer, door switch, start button, and then T-Stats. If all that is functioning, then power is allowed to the igniter. The igniter will glow red, get hot, and reach a pre-determined resistance due to the heat, and that will allow the burner valve to open supplying gas to the glowing red igniter coil, gass lights, igniter turns off.

Hope that helps

Doo-Daa

[81xsproject]

I tested the t-stats the were both completed circuits. The ignition looks like this:



According to the wiring diagram taped behind one of the covers, the resistance should be around 40 ohms. It tested more like 69 ohms. It doesn't heat up at all. Do you think it is the igniter? I think it is getting power, because while taking it out with the power on (like a moron), it touched the housing and sparked.

[81xsproject]

Well, I guess we will find out if it is the igniter or not because even after being warned I accidentally found out just how fragile the igniter is

[heatmanal]

The Ignighter is ok at 69ohms I have seen them still work at 100ohms. If you plug a voltage tester into the plug that you unpluged the ignighter from you should get 120v. If not check the vacuume sensor should have a rubber hose hooked to it. check the rubber hose either end could be pluged Allen

[81xsproject]

I checked with the dryer on, no power to the igniter.

[hamjam]

an other thing that happens sometimes is the lint screen gets plugged with the junk from 'bounce' sheets , and the dryer will not heat up if there is not enough air flow so take the lint screen out and wash it , use a scrub brush to make sure it will allow a 'good' flow of air through it ,
Jim

[FL4x4offroad]

Check the connectors on the timer, and ohm across the coils on the gas valve for continuity. you should see which connections on the schematic diagram to check

[FL4x4offroad]

Also, there is a centrifugal switch on the motor that acts as a safety and will not power your gas valve and ignitor if the motor goes out, and sometimes the switch fails. How old is the dryer? what's the make and model #

[81xsproject]

it is a Kenmore 110.72602101. Now that I have a new igniter to replace the one I broke, it tested the exact same resistance and the one I broke. Shall we start the tally? $29 in, probably not fixed At the parts place the old guy told be to check the flame sensor. He checked a brand new one there on the spot and said it was a continuity thing. So I tested mine a couple on minutes ago and it too is a closed circuit. Would it help if I scanned and posted the wiring diagram? I checked the resistance on the valve solenoids, and they were all very close to the values listed on the wiring diagram.

[Bud Manley]

I honestly don't want o be a smart as here. So don't take it the wrong way, but are you sure your supplying gas to the dryer?
I have a propane torch that I just can't get to stay lit. Turns out the orifice is plugged. I thought it was maybe something to do with the type of bottle I was using.

[Doo-Daa]

OK, it's been a long time since I was a Sears Repair Tech, so I'll hope my model knowledge works for your dryer.

After replacing the igniter, I'm assuming you assembled it together, put 120Vac to it, (No gas) and ran it, but the igniter didn't turn bright red. I'm also assuming that the dryer drum rotates, but no power to the igniter.

So here goes.

1. you checked the safety t-stat, it's the white or grey cheap looking one, and got continuity.

2. Do you have the T-Stat that has 2 wires, or 4 wires? The two wire one, continuity across it, the 4 wire one, color to color (hopefully you didn't pull the wires and accidentially mix um up.) You should read continuity from same color to same color.

3. Some dryers have a timer setting that says "auto dry" or "more dry/less dry". A lot of people confuse it with "perminent press", which is the other switch. If you're using the "more dry/less dry" position, test it using the Normal setting, the one that goes from 70 minutes to 0 minutes. Put it at least mid-scale (the last 10 minutes of all dryers is a cool down cycle and the heat is OFF). See if the igniter heats up in that position.

4. Gas being applied to the dryer is not a requirement to energize the igniter.

if all this fails, scan your print, and send it to me (PM if you want). I can look at it and tell you what to check.

Note: None of this will work if the drum is not turning when you turn it on.

Hope this helps - Doo-Daa

[81xsproject]

Well, I threw in the towel yesterday and called a repairman as SWMBO was getting fed up with having the dryer in pieces all over the kitchen. Turns out it the temp switch stopped working and let the temp get too high which blew the emergency fuse. $68 to have the man come out and spend 2 minutes checking it out. Recommended new belt and idler pulley also. I went and got the parts for another $108, put it back together and am drying a load as I type.

[Doo-Daa]

Kool, but sorry it took too long for my reply.

I remember that when I was working for Sears, we used to charge $70, just to knock on the door.

Glad you didn't get raped too bad.

Doo-Daa