Yes, and I prefer it to operate just like that. Fluid on the wall is not really a problem. If it was I would rather use coloured water than thin it with something that may seperate when left sitting.
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DIY carb sync tool
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1981 XJ550RH
1978 XS1100E The Wildebeast
1978 XS1100F X Streem
1980 XS1100G (with an E motor)(parts bike)
Jet/Mod Calculator
Speed/Gearing Calculator
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"I would rather use coloured water than thin it with something that may seperate when left sitting."
Hi HG,
use kerosene (aka paraffin) or diesel fuel mixed about 15/1 with 2-stroke self-mixing oil, the coloured stuff. That'll show up well in the tubes, it won't settle out, it's lighter than water and hence more sensitive and if it gets sucked into the engine all she'll do is smoke a bit.Fred Hill, S'toon
XS11SG with Spirit of America sidecar
"The Flying Pumpkin"
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Anything new, here?
I've used the Morgan carb tune, but I'm not sure it's as accurate as non-mechanical guages. My guage has issues anyway, so I need a new solution.
Thinking about a Morgan Carbtune Pro unless something more definitive comes out of this thread.
Ben1985 Yamaha VMX12n "Max X" - Stock
1982 Honda XL500r "Big Red" - Stump Puller. Unknown mileage.
1974-78 Honda XL350 hybrid - The thumper that revs. Unknown miles.
1974 Suzuki TC/TS125 hybrid. Trials with trail gear. Invaluable. Unknown miles.
1971 Honda CL350. For Dad. Newtronic Electronic Ign. Reliable. Unknown miles.
Formerly:
1982 XS650
1980 XS1100g
1979 XS1100sf
1978 XS1100e donor
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Originally posted by Brasco18
I am going to try the four-way DIY sync tool this week. Has anyone had any tweaks that have worked out?
Ken"OMG, did you just break that bolt off?"
'80 XS 1100 Special (now 1200) "Big Blue"
'77 KZ 1000/'78 KZ 1000 Police "Chimera"
'8? FJ 1100 "dwindling Pile of JUNK"
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that with a JAP or a Matchless engine?
I read the manual, but I didn't see a motor in the box LOL! I was talkin about a Morgan Carbtune. Used it first time last night - super cool!
Deny1978 XS1100E - The TimeMachine
1980 XS850 Special - Little Mo
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I bought all the stuff and will put it together soon. After expenses it was about $21. I couldn't find a four-way four-prong connector at Home Depot or the auto store so I will have to use two three-way connectors and connect them together, making a 'H', or an 'I', depending how you look at it. I am also doing the 'sealed reservoir' method instead. That way there is no chance of liquid getting sucked into the engine. I will take some pics and post when I do all of this.Stock '79 xs1100 Standard
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Alright.. I've been silently stalking this thread for a while. I feel confident enough in my findings to speak up.
I built the tool using 30ish feet of tubing and two tee couplers implementing the "H" pattern. After mounting I then filled the contraption with a mixture of ATF and 20w50 (maybe 3:1 or so). When filling I recommend using a small CC syringe similar to that which you administer your dogs medicine. No drops, no dribbles.
Conclusion? Seems to have worked nearly flawlessly. Definitely sensitive. The smallest adjustement sends the fluctuating levels all ascuttle. Bike cold starts and runs as good as it ever has for me. For the less than $10 I sunk in the project, its a definite green flag for all you would-be manometer builders out there.
A note, however. I first tried the two independent loops for giggles (that and I had not yet acquired the tee fittings). Though this seemed to work some, I couldn't quite get the feel for when the two banks were synched together. With the united tubing, however, the carbs state of balance became much more apparent. This entire scenario suprised me somewhat, as I had went to great lengths to ensure both loops had equal lengths and the same amount of fluid (which was accurately applied using the aforementioned syringe).
Anywho... it ended up working for me. It would be nice to have a professional rig. For now, though, my meth lab-looking apparatus will suffice.Corey J. Bennett
'79 XS1100SF
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Also forgot to mention...
I was fairly apprehensive the first time I tried the device. After reading this thread I didn't want to suck up any fluid, regardless of how digestible my engine might find it. My worries were ill founded, however. A bread tie bench synch arranged the plates close enough to avoid any quick dashes to the kill switch.
Just figure I'd throw that out to calm the nerves of potential builders.Corey J. Bennett
'79 XS1100SF
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Interesting thread...
this thread died twice, once in Dec '07, revived June '08, died again in July '08, revived again Yesterday.........
I've built both styles,
First the 'nanometer' style,
I used ATF, it's a detergent anyway, so if sucked into the engine......
Mine was built with 3/8 line, reducers to 3/16 line to hook to nipples,
4 way side, I used 2 T's, 2 90's wire tied everything to a piece of peg board, reinforced it with 1/2 x 2 board,
YEAH, it was WAY over engineered, I even put a shut-off in the middle of 2-3
that way I wouldn't need to reconfigure, in order to test the theory of 2 2ways vs a 4way
but the 4 way is req'd, in order to match right side to left, you have to compare right to left, so you'd need to rehook to 1 right and 1 left,
It did work, but I found it to be a real PITA,
So I tried the guage, just hooked it up to 1 carb and the needle went crazy,
incorporated a plenum, guage balanced right out, then I hooked a fish tank valve, 4-way in the mix,
takes a little time to get used to using it, wait for the needle to balance after switchin from one carb to another, but it works great!
I know this all hinges on the guage being accurate, but IMHO I'd go with the guage...........
I made the plenum big enuf' to pull double duty as a carry-storage case, it fits in the tool box, and no oil to clean up
1980 XS11 Special aka The Monster
"My life used to be a Soap Opera, until I realized something, I own the network."
My Photo Bucket
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