Automotive AC question.

[webbcraft2150]

Nuthin to do with XS's. I have to admit I have not had to dive into AC systems much at all, usually was a minor problem I left to the pros. This ones a major. The AC clutch on my "95 Olds 88 fried, as in water evaporating hot. Was a mechanical meltdown, not electrical. With 160k on it, I figure the compressor is close to its end also and I question the life of it anyway after the clutch smoked (heat transfer to the internals). So, I wanna replace the compressor/clutch assembly. Shop wants $1300. I get different stories from different people, replace the accumalator at the same time, or don't, replace the receiver/dryer or dont. Replace the oriface tube, or not. I figure I can bolt stuff on with the best of 'em and then take it in to have it sucked down and filled. Cost isnt really that bad for me to buy all the parts listed and install myself, only want to do this job once, kinda like a 2nd gear fix.

[BLUEJEEPLAB]

There are some special tools involved, like a vacuum to draw out all the moisture and old freon (is that one R12 [Good luck] or R-134 [you can get that]) so you don't screw up the new pump. I'd replace the dehydrator at a minimum along with all the seals since you will be torn down that far. You'll also need pressure gauges and the attending fittings.

I'll do recharges on the Jeep and SWMBO's Sebring since they are 134 and I have the necessary guages. We have Moby Dick, our old 93 Ford E-150, he needs to be converted and I intend to pay someone, it's a big job, worth the $750 Firestone wants because of the risk of screwing up...

[HobbyMan]

I would replace the orifice tube for sure. When those get clogged, your system quits and you sometimes loose your new freon putting in a new one. Whatever you do, I would not convert it to R134A. It does not have the heat capacity of R12. (less cooling). You could buy a new dryer but it is not necessary. It is possible to take the water out of them. If you have a good vacuum pump you can pump it down and the water will evaporate out of the dryer. (low pressure- water boils) After you pump it down a few times the water will be completely out of the dryer. I think R12 is about $20 per lb now days(does that sound right?) If you are starting from scratch, that may get expensive depending on the size of your system. If you want to buy a 30lb bottle, try Mexico. Its cheaper.(at least it was the last time I was there). If you have more that one vehicle with R12, it may be worth it to buy a bottle next time you go down south and get a good vacuum pump. From my experience with older systems, they never usually get done correctly until you do it yourself(if you know what you are doing). Its just that where I am, they usually try to get it fixed as fast as possible and they miss slow leaks that way. If you have your own pump, you can pump it down and monitor the pressure. If it doesn't come up after a few days, you are good.

[MacMcMacmac]

There are drop in replacements for R12 that work very well, like Duracool.

[rev79xs11]

Well, here's my .02, absolutely replace he orifice tube, it will be full of junk if your compressor has worn at all. Absoluteley replace the dryer, same problem as the orifice as the dryer is also a filter. The dryer also holds much of the oil in the system. Absolutely convert it to r-134a, its cheap and easy to find. a leak in an r-12 system can cost you a fortune. I have had many converted systems putting 34 degrees out the vents. You will ned a vacuum pump to pull all of the moisture from the system (at least 30 min.).
Just as a reference I am an ase master tech, ac certified, 18yrs exp.

Hope this helps!