Drag racing

[underdog57]

An interested in going to Naiperville , Canada drag strip ..
legally see what "Wild Thing " will do ..

What rpm's do you guys holeshot from ??
Gime a rundown of what to expect draggin !!
I've never popped the clutch and dont want 600 lbs on top of me !!

Bob

[mro]

Link to TC's great adventure

Click below
http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...g&pagenumber=1


mro

[Crazcnuk]

Unless you have a drag slick, you are more likely to go off at a 45 deg angle than flip the bike over!

Neither is good.

Best thing is to get to the track really early, and get as many practice runs in, as you can. You will quickly learn what your, and the bike's, limits are.

At my closest drag strip they have 'Street legal' drags on Friday nights. If yours allows bikes, this is a great place to get a lot of runs in. You'll be very surprised what your launch is like after a dozen runs or so...

If memory serves, you will need a DOT rated Full-face Helmet with the DOT rating less than 5yrs old, good leather gloves, and a decent jacket, and boots, at the speeds that the XS will run in. (12's)

On my Shadow 1100 I used an open face helmet, work gloves, w/o goggles, but I wear glasses, and the Shadow ran in the low 14's.

If you're running a street tire on the back, go around the water box, back into it, and just warm the tire up, don't try and burn it, it eill actually lose traction.

[underdog57]

I'll check on the rules . Gear to wear ...etc
I did a search of drag racing , and see from mro's linc "ET" would of got me lots of great imfo ..
Reading out of that thread now ..

Hmmm feather clutch , put the front tire as far back till it registers the tree . Hit it on yellow ...Got it ..

To tie the front forks down , would you let the air out and strap it with a ratchet tie down ??

This should be fun ...

Bob

[mro]

I would not tie down the forks but would go somewhere and do a few practice hole shots.... (Have a friend tag along in a cage with a cell phone)

Have noticed on my 80G (totally stock) that shifting around 7500 but before 8000 seems to keep it accelerating strong in first and second, and third likes to be shifted right at 7500 and still pull good in fourth.

Hole shots on my hot rod XS.......have been interesting...
Has a barret? clutch which likes to "grab" compared to a stocker.
Have launched at 3500 and cranked to WTO as slipping the clutch and almost flipped it a couple a times. Had to replace the clutch basket recently. Developed a crack all the way thru which made a pretty weird noise when starting out in first.

Good luck

mro

[bandet01]

i was goping to say dont pop the clucth feather it out air your front tire up and let your back down to 20 psi and go around the water box and back in to like somebody said and do a little burn out and your ready to roll up to the line and the best et i got out of my xs1100 was a 13.28

[mro]

Hi ya bandet01

Ya disapeared for awhile.
Glad to see ya back.


mro

[goldcoastguy001]

drag raced mine frequetly. drop the clutch at between 3500 - 4000 and then full throttle to 7500 -8000 mthen change.....dont be scared it wont stand up on you ( i have done more revs to wheel stand it)........ in a 1/4 mile you shouldnt get past 3rd gear.....have fun....cheers

[TADracer]

Well, here is my two cents!

Me thinks I would not tie down the front. Besides, some tracks won't allow that anyway. You need a lowering kit to meet most sanctioning body's rules. Use tire pressures (high in front and lower in rear) and your shock/fork adjustments to tune the suspension. If you have access to some tubing and a welder, make a pair of solid struts to replace the rear shocks. Dont expect a record run the first time. It takes plenty or seat time to find the right tune-up. Mount a slick, if you can because the thin sidewalls will give you better bite off the line and a bit more top end speed because of slight circumferance expansion.

I would switch to drag handlebars, if you can, to get your stance a bit lower and help keep the front on the ground. Ideal weight transfer would be with the front wheel just skimming the ground off the line.

Back up into the water box and do a solid burnout. A solid burnout does not mean you need to smoke up the track, only heat up your tire. Hold the front brakes on until you feel the traction starting to push the machine farward then let off the brake and let the bike drive naturally out of the water box. Do not dry hop between the burnout and the stage line. Move right up and pre-stage. Blip the throttle a few times to clean out the carbs. Use courtesy and do not stage untill the rider in the other lane pre-stages. Get in your riding stance and stage using only your toes. Just turn on the stage light, do not deep stage. These bikes do not react too fast so, leave when the last yellow comes on and that should produce a green light start and a good reaction time for you.

In the interest of safety, visually check everything over before each and every run. Drain your tank to about 1/2 gallon. The track may require you to install a kill lanyard from your sleeve to the engine shut-off by the throttle.

Try to go to a track with a weekly test-N-tune session and do several squirts off the line to get the feel of the machine when it launches and to get some practice time on the tree. Lengthen your runs out as you get the feel. Practive launches on the street is not a substitute for the track. They are light years apart.

Launch at several RPM ranges and see which one gives you the best 60' time (assumeing the timing system at the track you are at gives incremental times) Stick with that one because the 60' time is usually the most telling of starting line performance. I would shift when the tach reaches 8,000 since you will be at the red line by the time you react and complete the shift.

Have fun! Plan on building yourself a dragbike....because you will be hooked.

[underdog57]

great posts !!
thanks for all the input !!!!!!

Bob