Another Automotive Question?

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Folks,

First thought about hijacking PapGino's thread, but decided against it!

Okay, I have a Chevy Corsica '94, 2.2L 4cyl FI, and the replacement engine of 3 years(just past warranty period of course) has developed a head gasket leak....radiator fluid externally right now, but don't want to experience the hydrolock event AGAIN!!

What are these Torque to Yield head bolts that I have to get?
I have a needle indicator type torque wrench. Have read about a TRQ-1 Felpro tool....torque to angle indicator for these types of bolts to provide ?better-more accurate? torques on these bolts, but I'm guessing vs. a "clicker" style torque wrench? Since I have the angle/needle indicator type wrench, do I need to use this tool?

I believe it's a case of where the engine leaked coolant and got slightly overheated, which has probably resulted in warping the head a little leading to the leak?

The neice and nephew that we gave this car to said she could hear the sound of swishing/swirling water when it is running coming from the dashboard area! This is leading me to thinking that the leak may be from the dash heater core, or also the hoses connecting same to engine?

I'll be having the head checked and trued/shaved as necessary to bring it back to flat once I get it off! Thanks in advance!
T.C.

[Hobbit]

Bolts

Hey T.C.,
I don't know about the Chevy, but I work with Mercedes and we use head bolts that are torqued to a nominal value (90Nm) and then tighten 90 degrees (in the proper sequence) and then tighten another 90 degrees. The bolts are actually designed to "stretch", which provides the clamping force to the block.
Walt

[prometheus578]

And those stretch bolts are one time use only, if I 'member correctly.

[TopCatGr58]

Thanks Walt and Prom,

After posting this querry, I did a little googling!

Yes, when they are torqued, and then angle turned twice to the actual YIELD point, then they are 1 time use bolts. These bolts were designed for use with aluminum heads that expand more with the fluctuation of heat from cool to normal temps and back.

T.C.

[DiverRay]

T.C. the gurgle of water can be from the air in the system. Once you have a leak, you get air into the system, and as the coolant runs through the heater core, you hear it. If it WAS leaking under the dash, you should see green stains on a wet carpet.

[dale_1]

easy one TC

OK let's start with the sound they hear... sometimes when the head gasket blows or is about to on that type of arrangement... you get the most noise from them.

Usually if you have really good ears and sometimes not so much so, you can hear it and it will sound like it's coming from the dash when in actuality it is the sound you are hearing in the expansion tank. The air has to go somewhere.

As far as degree torquing, you dont have to use the special tool although some mechanics in the industry will not work without one....... Genereally what I do and have never had a problem with it (189000 miles on my wife's Escort wagon and about 70000 since head work) that's the last one I did. Tighten to specified torque and leave it.... no just kidding..... mark your degrees of torque for each step in different colors on the head and one mark on the bolt with a sharpie. I use black on the bolt and black for first step, red for second. I have never seen anything more than two steps of degree torque so I use red to mark STOP.

As a matter of fact in both Isuzu diesels and at the Ford dealership where I worked that's how it was done every time. Never failed me once. Approximately 100 motor builds. Zero failures..... just don't get lost while doing it. I guess it would be easier to lose your spot while using a degree wrench myself. When I worked on Detroit engines I would actually mark the head of each bolt with white out each time I torqued one. That way there was no doubt at all which ones and how many times I torqued them. Sounds kinda sophomoric but it works.

If that isn't perfectly clear let me know. I have had to draw a picture for a mechanic once or twice to explain it. But it makes perfect sense when you see it done.

Hope I was a help.

Mark

[TopCatGr58]

A few more questions?

Okay,

Finally got the time and parts to do this project! Car essentially has sat for a few months. Battery went dead, I charged it back up and the engine started.

I've gotten the gasket set, the special new torque bolts, and I have the Haynes manual I got some 10 years ago! This engine was a replacement rebuilt one. Has 3 years on it. The gasket set comes with new valve stem seals, do I need to or should I go ahead and replace them since I'll have the head off....will require pulling down the valve springs/keepers to replace? There was no sign of them leaking prior to this, just the coolant leak!

The Manual only has original torque values for the long and short bolts, and then 90 degrees final torque, but only 1 step for the degree torquing, should there be 2 steps?? I guess I could contact a dealer and inquire on the most recent service technique.

Also, with reusable nuts like on the XS11 head, I used some light oil on threads and contact surface to allow a more truer reading of torque vs. the extra frictional component, which might allow a less than required torque value to be obtained. So...with these special bolts, do I or should I use any oil like WD-40 or such on the threads and flanged bolthead to head contact surface, or just DRY???
TIA! T.C.

[TopCatGr58]

DiverRay and other MECHS...HELP

Well,

I got the head off after over 4 laborious hours of pulling "stuff" off of the engine to get to it!

I've never worked or cleaned fuel injectors! HOW DO YOU CLEAN them, since I've got the head off, thought I'd do that as well!

Been trying to search the "NET" for info on head bolt torque specs, but can't find anything specific. Chevy and GM forums just talk about getting a CHILTON'S and such! The Haynes I have is over 10 years old. It has the torque ft/lbs specs and then just 90 degrees. What I don't know is do I do that in 1 sweeping turn, or do I do it in 45 degree sweeps?

I guess everybody is either out riding, or staying cool inside watching the tube!?
T.C.

[oseaghdha]

Do it in one shot.

[dale_1]

Q&A session

OK....... don't let me skip one.........

1) I always try to do a complete valve job or have a machine shop do a full "head job" hahaha (sorry) get em to check the head and shave if necessary. When they do the valve job they always replace the seals...... and usually they shoot down a valve or two. Let em check it if you dont have all the tools.

2) If the manual has one step...... one step it is. One smooth stroke to get the angle torque.

3) Oiling the threads is best done with a little engine oil, just dip the threads in there...... by the time you get 'em in the hole there will be plenty of oil for the flange / it has to go somewhere :-)

4) note the 4 hrs of "pulling stuff off" it will get easier each time but try to do it only once...... take the injectors to a fuel injector specialist and they will clean them properly and test them for proper spray etc etc. if you cant do that someone around here might have a pressure tester built up for injectors.....

Hope I helped......

[Bud Manley]

I replaced a fuel injector on my jeep a while back. It was a total pain in the ass trying to get them back in. Once I applied liberally coating them with some petroleum jelly they popped right in like * **** ** ** ****.

-This message brought to you by your "special" friends at Vasoline

I doubt this helps at all but I really need to increase my posting count


Note - this post has been moderated. KT

[TopCatGr58]

Running Again!

Thanks everyone for your help!

Got the head back from the machine shop this morning, $50.00 for a shave! Did not do any work on the valves, seals, it was from a running engine barely 3 years old, and was doing this on a shoestring budget!

Got it all back together....was a bit scary doing the 90 degrees part after the 5ft/lb increments up to base torque! Didn't have any leftover parts(that I didn't know what they were....just a couple of hoisting braces ), took a little while to repressurize the fuel rail, but it finally kicked over, and ran strong!

Oh...the plot thickens. I forgot that a couple of years ago, I HAD changed the heater core due to a leak! While I was waiting for the nephew to arrive today, I decided to take apart the thermostat housing...I had a fresh gasket, why not? THEN, I decided to boil it...the damned thing wouldn't open at 212 degrees! That's the noise they heard, the engine almost boiling over thru the heater core! Got a new one, it had a 195, but I put a 180 in it to help keep it a bit cooler. I've heard the lower temps may make it not as efficient with regard to burning the fuel, but didn't want another warped head!

IT's now at the inspection/gas station for tomorrow's inspection, it should pass! Thanks again for the help!
T.C.

[webbcraft2150]

Topcat,
I have a 90 Cavalier with the 2.2, TBI, not port injection. I had to do the same thing you did a few years ago and I feel your pain. I had "dealer installed" AC and found I did not have the large, "factory" installed cooling fan and shroud. I was able to get the larger fan/shroud assembly from Rock Auto for $70. It was a straight bolt in. I also added a pusher fan to the front of the radiator and wired it in with the OEM unit. Also installed a trio of gauges (including temp) cause the idiot light will come on way too late to avoid a problem. I actually drilled and tapped the thermosat housing to accept the sender for the temp gauge. There is a web site, Z24 Cavalier ,that has some really good info on keeping your 2.2 alive. There is a thread on that site that will tell you how to install a switch in the cooling fan circuit that will allow you to manually turn on the fans and still keep the "automatic" feature intact. I know on my 90, the fans do not kick in till the temp exceeds 198. Way to hot for me. The switch trick worked well for me. Those aluminium head/steel block engine do not cut you any slack when they overheat.