One more time...

[planedick]

Still having carb problems and still have the same question. Does the float height effect the mid and top range the same as it does the idle? I asked this question on another thread and got lots of in;ut, but nobody answered my question. Does anyone know the answer?

Darn, I put this in the wrong forum and don't know how to move it.

[TADracer]

Yep!

Fuel levels are very important and there is a sweet spot for each setup. It takes trial and error. Too high will make everything run rich and too low will make a lean condition that could damage your engine. Also, if the level is too low the fuel mixture may not enter the airstream very quickly and that could cause hesitation.

[Pat Kelly]

This is the best place I've found for carb tuning and what part effects which RPM range:
CV carb tuning
From that site the float height effects the idle/low RPM range but other factors come into play too. I see they suggest float height is the last thing you "dial-in".
I used their method with great sucess on my E after changing to K&N filter in the airbox, Jardine 4 into 2 exhaust, and Dyna coils.

[planedick]

All stock

I have finally found all the parts to make the carbs all stock again. The bike is all stock too, filter box and pipes are all stock too. I got 137 mains, 42.5 idle jets and 180 idle air jets. My problem is it stumbles on exceleration under load and craps out a little on the top end. That's why I was wondering if just changing the float height might help both of the problems. The only thing not stock setup is needle position, (one notch down) which is easily changed without removing the carbs. This was done because everything was too lean at all RPM's. If raising the floats will help richen the mid and top end range too, I could probably move the clips back to the middle position. I really don't want to start changing jets sizes when everything else is still stock. I don't have other sizes anyway and getting them is expensive and difficult.

[DiverRay]

If by down, you have lowered the needle, you need to raise it back to stock. If by down, you have brought the needle up one notch higher, you may want to go up one step on the jets.
Remember, you are AT sea level, and the air is at maximum for the intake. You can try to raise the needle one more notch, so it will flow more fuel. If that take the stumble out, I would leave it alone.
Ray

[motoman]

The jets are readily available at most any of the bike shops......just make sure they are Mikuni's......the large size, as alot of shops have the same thing in an aftermarket one. Set-up the carbs to what they were in stock mode, and re-sync(if you don't have set of merc. tubes, Motion-Pro seels a nice set for under $70 with a bottle of merc). You HAVE to re-sync after removing carb bank.trust me, they'll be off even if you never touched the screws, plus it will eliminate that as an issue.

[SFerinTEXAS]

HESITATION

You probably are ahead of me here but have you done a real good check of the pick up coils? when i was demothing my SF last year , just for grins i checked into mine and sure enough found as described elsewhere that i had that problem and it only showed up when advancing the unit quickly.

[LoHo]

I think he meant the vacuum advance...in mine, the wires were almost powdered inside the plastic insulation, and worked most of the time, until they started working only some of the time, which made me dig in and look at the vac advance. Then I fixed it backwards, and so still had the same symptoms, and I then fixed everything else until I went back and found my error. One the plus side, I sure learned a lot about the bike!