car starter issue

[mason79]

i removed the battery, old battery was never abused or deep discharged, and jumped the car with another running car, the starter still grinds slow and to a halt and clicks, while the lights are bright. i know this is not a car forum, but you guys are my buddies, any comments would be appreciated

[kf4anm]

i sell car batteries by trade. just a wild guess but i would say from your description you have a starter issue.

[motoman]

Check your ground from batt. to block first for any greenish corrosion inside cable on either end. Eliminate that as a problem FIRST...............just my 2cents & 30+ yrs. of automotive starting and charging system experience.

[mason79]

i doesn't appear to have greenish corrosion, any place but will look again tommarrow, the jump led straight to the starter pos cable and ground, so far and thanks so far, i appreciate it.

[Dragonrider]

Bad connection, bad relay, or bad starter.

Also check the ground from the engine block to the chassie.

Also...did you say you removed the battery? Cables alone generally won't carry enough amperage to fully run a starter. Some can pull 600 amps, particularly when the engine is cold.

May be worth pulling the plugs on the engine and making sure it's not hydrolocked or something too....

Best of luck!

[mason79]

thanks i'm trickling the batt as we type, and will install to see if this directness helps, much appriciated,

now my carbs when on the side stand, leaks gas and i have a full tank of gas on my xsive cruise missle, read here elswhere the floats could be rubbing, i just started to side stand vs, center stand, guess i'm getting lazy now i have to change the oil and all kinds of bull shot...
oh well i prollyy need to go one up on the mains anyhow...

when it rains it pours... gas

[Jerry]

Sometime when the solenoid clicks but the starter appears weak the problem is bad solenoid contacts

Generally auto solenoids contain copper contacts in various designs, but all operate basically the same: power from the switch energizes the solenoid, dropping one copper contact on the other. The solenoid is just a relay. Power from the battery is on one of the contacts; when the solenoid connects the contacts power is sent into the starter motor, causing it to spin.

Most common problems are:

Low voltage coming out of the ignition switch so solenoid does not energize correctly. If this wire appears to be burned, crusty, or has corrosion at either the starter or switch (starter end is more common) you should replace / clean this wire.

Contacts in solenoid are pitted / burned and not able to pass current into the starter windings.

Poor ground / positive cable corrosion.

Most auto solenoids can be opened and the contacts cleaned up with a small file, emery cloth, or - in some designs - swapped or turned over to present fresh contact points. One trick is to use a Ford solenoid from the mid-'60s, mount it on the firewall, move the ignition / power cables to it and then run a battery cable lead from the solenoid output down to your starter. This keeps the solenoid much cooler, wires will not get burned, and the Ford unit has a reputation for low voltage requirements to energize. (There is usually a strap coming out of the solenoid that goes into the starter. This strap is where you attach the battery cable from the Ford solenoid.)

Let us know what your find.

[mason79]

looks like you guys are having me crawl all over the car, buy i do appriciate the insight, i wonder if i'll trouble shoot this in 06 or 07

i'm tempted to do the high school thing; sway parts, but that would leave me less for my xs cruise missile... okay forget that idea.

[mro]

Leaky carbs..?

Do you use "in-line" fuel filters?

If not, crud from tank could be jetting into your carbs

Takes only a tiny bit to make a float valve leak.....


mro

[mason79]

yes inline filters in place, i pulled the tank and it is ,with its new petcock as per p o, dryer that a girl thats not interested.

[mason79]

it was the battery, i would not hold a charge

so again thanks to all!!