Torque wrenches

[DeanR]

Just got a half price torque wrench at Sears. I've never used one before. It is the 25 - 250 in lb model (I'm assuming you divide by twelve to convert to ft lbs).
My question if you only have one torque wrench in the toolbox, which one is best for the range of connectors on our bikes?

[trbig]

Most of our stuff is in the 7-25 foot pound range (84- 308 inch pounds), but yours will handle most things. You will need a bigger one for the things like the head nuts. You are correct.. divide inch pounds by 12 to get foot pounds.

Tod

[TopCatGr58]

Dean,

Since you're using an Inch/lb wrench, you'll want to multiply the ft/lb values given in the manual or on here x12 to get the Inch/lb level you're looking for.

But, for things like the wheel castle nuts, the main clutch basket nut, which need 50 to 70 foot lbs, you'll need a bigger wrench!
T.C.

[DeanR]

One other minor item. Just how important are these torque specs anyway?

In my minor league fixing of stuff, I always get things "pretty tight, but not real tight" and I've rarely seen mechanics use torque wrenches on anything either!

[trbig]

??? They decided the torque values for a reason.. and I'm sure an engineer could give you a long drawn out theory. With the close tolerances, high revs, and aluminum pieces on this stuff versus an old 67 Chevy pickup under the shade tree that will be turning a whopping 3,000 rpm's (Yeah the apostraphe is going to irritate someone!.. lol) eventually "Pretty tight" is going to let you down. I periodically tighten my valve cover screws "Pretty tight".. but everything else gets clicked! lol.

If I took my stuff to a mechanic and paid him... and saw it getting done by the ol' calibrated right wrist... it would be the last time he worked on my stuff.

Tod

[TADracer]

Torque everything.

Maybe it is my past life of dragracing but I am in the habit of using the torque wrench on just about everything. But I think is is even more important on fasteners that are into aluminum since the torque values will be mush less than fasteners into steel. It is very easy to strip out aluminum threads so a torque wrench is a handy tool to help prevent overtightening. Also, parts with multiple fasteners like cover plates, etc. never seem to lose a fastener by vibrating out if they are all tightened the same amount.

[Snow]

Aluminum parts + "Arm-feel-it Torque Wrench" = bad news.

Also, I prefer a torque wrench instead of those clicking torque bar thing-a-ma-bobs that you have to set for each particular torque. It's much quicker to just use a torque wrench and they are less prone to breaking.

[Jerry]

I have both a ft-lbs and inch-pound torque wrenches, both are clicker type. Biggest reason for using them is consistent torque; absolute value is going to be in the + or - 5 percent of specified value , repeatability should be closer. Many critical parts require uniform torque, just not there with the tighten-until-it-feels-right approach, particularly items that repeatedly get hot and cool off, like cylinder head and clutch basket bolts. Heck, I even use a torque wrench when I rotate my car tires to help prevent warping of disks.

Store the wrenched at "0" torque if you have the clicker type, and if you want to be really accurate, send them out for calibration every few years.

In most cases you get to the final torque in stages; go up in regular increments, with smaller values when getting close to final torque. For precison work you need the right tools, including a good torque wrench.

[HobbyMan]

I just got 2 wrenches from sears the other day, they were on sale. They were both about $20 each. I have worked on small aluminum parts for years. I know the guestimated torque seems to be a dangerous way to go about it, but I have learned to work with it. I have just started using my new wrenches. There is some stuff that you just don't need them on. I do agree that some critical parts would need them. Ahh well, now i can safely say that I hve them if I need them.

[Incubus]

About 30 years ago I used to race a 1969 Bridgestone 200 motorcycle on flat tracks at home in Wisconsin. The engine was heavily modified, I squeezed everything it had out of it every race and I had to pretty much rebuild he engine after every race - at least all the seals. It got so I could "feel" the right torques - I thought. In its last ride I had rushed through the engine the night before. When the engine got real hot (it was two stroke and the power band was 10,000-12,000 rpm) the imprecision of my torquing became apparent when the cases twisted, I blew most of my oil out of the rotary valve seal and the bike coasted to its last powered stop.

I have two torque wrenches now and I torque everything - a clicker for foot pounds and a beam wrench for inch pounds.

Use the wrench.

Patrick

[webbcraft2150]

Torque smorke!!! Hunker down on it and then give it another 1/4 turn.

Actually, I usually use a clicker type torque wrench on things like spark plugs, axle nuts and most engine fastners. (I guess I missed that rear caliper bolt )

Store it in the "0" position, DO NOT use it as a breaker bar, DO NOT loan it to your bro-in-law!!!