XS Fever, Its getting worse

[HobbyMan]

Thank you. Nothing I have done so far would be possible without the valuable advice given by those such as yourself, whether mechanical or not. It is my hope to live up to the expectations set by all of those before me. Yeah, I could use some of those curvy roads right about now And you Sir, May your days be long and prosperous.

[HobbyMan]

I just finished grinding rust off the swingarm and surrounding areas. I am going to prime and paint it latter this evening. The garage is warm so temperature should not be a problem. I want to get the painting done before it snows here. Should any black enamel be good for the swingarm? I want it to look close to the original. Second, there was quite a bit of grease on the swingarm where the FD bolts on. Is there supposed to be some sort of sealant there? There was a bunch of white junk plastered on the mating surfaces when I took it off. Any thoughts on the matter would help out a lot.

[vanhump]

Hobbyman If I didnt know better I would think you done stole my bike. Everything is identical except it looks as if someone has sawed the top half of the windshield off.

[81xsproject]

Hobbyman, use something that will resist oil and fuel. Sooner or later something will spill/leak/whatever. I learned this the hard way using the "engine paint" from the auto store. Currently I have done about 10 touch-ups.

[HobbyMan]

Did yours burn too?
If the paint I am using right now is not gas/oil resistant, I will either take it off or put a protectant cleat over it. I know there is a clear I think made by Dupont that is gas/oil resistant.

[81xsproject]

I know that laquer can stand up to fuel, but one (laquer/enamel) can not be put over the other (have completely given up on remembering which over which will/wont work). You probably already know this though.

And PS, at this time of the day shouldn't you be in home-ec or something

[HobbyMan]

volunteer program and SR- realease. MY schedual is awesome. MY school uses A-B days. B days I have welding and AP english 4. That is the best class to sleep in. Then I go to volunteer at a middle school, then home. The next day is similar, only with AP calc and AP physics. I though about home ec though.

[TopCatGr58]

Originally posted by HobbyMan
volunteer program and SR- realease. MY schedual is awesome. MY school uses A-B days. B days I have welding and AP english 4. That is the best class to sleep in. Then I go to volunteer at a middle school, then home. The next day is similar, only with AP calc and AP physics. I though about home ec though.

Perhaps it would be wise NOT to SLEEP during your English class? See above notations!
T.C.

[HobbyMan]

My teacher Keeps the room very dim every day. When there are no tests or other important things going on, we don't really do anything. She is really nice about everything and she doesn't mind me taking a little snooze every other day. She doesn't even care if we walk out of the class room. There are even pillows and blankets that she brought in for us to lay around on. I think the school wants it this way to reward us for years of torture for our 3 previous PAP and AP English classes. The material can be very difficult, but you must really learn it at home. Also, you would be surprised what you can learn in your sleep.

[Pat Kelly]

And what others learn about you in your sleep.

[HobbyMan]

Ok, I am starting over on the swingarm. The clymers is very vauge. How do you pull the driveshaft out? It does not just "disengage and slide out through the rear." Everywhere I had to paint over the original stuff, (not bare metal) it bubbled up. It didn't flake off, but turned really rough. I need to pull the swingarm completely and grind all of the old stuff off. WTF. this is really getting on my nerves. I HATE PAINT!!! Ahhh. I want to set fire to this bike. I hate being a perfectionist. HELP!!

[DiverRay]

The drive shaft WILL pull out, after you use a slide hammer on it. There is a clip on the end of the shaft, and you need to compress it too get the shaft out. A slide hammer, or a pair of pry bars, one on each side, should do the trick. Be carefull trying to put it back in, as it's easy to get it miss aligned.(DAMHIK)

[John]

You can clamp onto the gear end of the shaft with a vise grip and pop it out by pulling or striking the vise grip with a hammer. That's how I pulled mine out for the conversion. The gears are hardened so you won't damage them.

[Pat Kelly]

By "gear end" do you mean the splines going to the final drive?
I'm curious because I think I need to pull my driveshaft to replace the driveshaft boot.
Also, did I read somewhere that you really don't need the circlip when putting the shaft back in?

[John]

Pat

I do mean the splines at the final drive end of the shaft. If you need to change the boot, that can be done by just unbolting the U joint from the middle drive flange, work out the old one, and patiently working the new boot in between the U joint flange and the drive shaft flange. Use some soapy water or even Armor All to lube up the boot, and it can be fitted into position.