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  • #16
    If you want that shed to stay together for any length of time, You may want to consider useing deck screws. It may take a little bit longer predrilling and screwing (hehehehe) but you wont have a problem with the nails working themselves out from freezing/thawing
    S.R.Czekus

    1-Project SG (Ugly Rat Bike)(URB)
    1-big XS patch
    1-small XS/XJ patch
    1-XS/XJ owners pin.
    1-really cool XS/XJ owners sticker on my helmet.
    2-2005 XS rally T-shirts, (Bean Blossom, In)
    1-XVS1300C Yamaha Stryker Custom (Mosquito)
    1-VN900C Kawasaki Custom (Jelly Bean)

    Just do it !!!!!

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    • #17
      Thanks Steve,

      I was looking at nails and such today trying to figure out how long I will need for most of the framing,12D 2-1/2 or 3-1/4" long, and coated or galvanized? Perhaps I can use nails for most of the stuff, but use the screws for the critical corners and such!?
      T.C.
      T. C. Gresham
      81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
      79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
      History shows again and again,
      How nature points out the folly of men!

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      • #18
        2 X 4 framing, 16D's

        (will hold until you remove them)



        mro

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        • #19
          You may want to pick up a few sizes, TC. I like to use 3 1/4" for most 2x4 fastenings. For attaching 3/4 strapping to 2x4 framing, I like 2". For 3/8" sheathing, I would use 1 1/2". I almost always always use PC (phosphor coated) box nails for general framing construction where the fasterners will not be exposed to water. They are a much smaller diameter so they are easier to drive, they don't split the wood so bad, and the pc coating makes them hold like mad compared to an uncoated common nail. The only trick with the thinner shank is hitting the nail squarely - hit one of these a bit off centre and it will bend in a heartbeat.

          Then again, maybe I tend to stock a few more fasteners than some guys:







          Ken Talbot

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          • #20
            XSive!!!!!!

            Hey Ken,
            looks better stocked than my local hardware store


            mro

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            • #21
              Last year I poured a slab for my 12' x 17' metal shed (roll-up door on one end). Slab was 4" thick with wire mesh. Did it all myself. Ran electrical from house in underground conduit. One circut for lights (four 4' florescent shop lights and one halogen outside worklight) and another circut for plugs. General outside lighting is solar LED yardlights.
              Intend to either pour concrete or flag stones outside the roll-up door with a 10' x 20' "tarp" garage. This is what the bikes are currently parked under in the driveway.
              The shed is at the back of our property and is accessed by the alley.
              Another 9' x 10' shed holds the mower and bicycles and yard stuff. The bigger shed is the workshop, tools, and table saws.

              Two years ago we built a 600 sq/ft addition to our house. Bedroom, bathroom, and rec room. We did all the work ourselves with the sole exception of the bathroom linoleum.Album of addition project .
              Pat Kelly
              <p-lkelly@sbcglobal.net>

              1978 XS1100E (The Force)
              1980 XS1100LG (The Dark Side)
              2007 Dodge Ram 2500 quad-cab long-bed (Wifes ride)
              1999 Suburban (The Ship)
              1994 Dodge Spirit (Son #1)
              1968 F100 (Valentine)

              "No one is totally useless. They can always be used as a bad example"

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