Removing Rotor From Motor

[BOYZSBLUE]

DOES ANYONE HAVE A EASY WAY TO REMOVE THE ROTOR FROM THE CRANK WITHOUT HAVE THE SPECIAL TOOL THAT IS REQUIRED? SINCE I CAN'T SEEM TO LOCATE THE TOOL ANYWHERES. THE YAMAHA SHOP IN MY AREA HAVE THEIR NOSES IN THE AIR BECAUSE MY BIKE IS OUTDATED AND DON'T WANT NOTHING TO DO WITH IT. @@##%^$&!!!!! TO THEM , BEST BIKE THEY EVER MADE , WHY DID THEY STOP. WOULDN'T OWN ANOTHER TYPE BUT THE XS 1100. HELP PLEASE!!!!! WANT TO HIT THE ROAD AGAIN, HAVING D.T.S


BOYZSBLUE (LEON)

[John]

Do you have an auto parts store in town that rents/lends out tools? If so, then just get a two or three jaw puller to remove the rotor. Once the puller is in place, and it has a good amount of tension on it, whack the end of the arbor shaft with a hammer, and it should break loose. If the first attempt doesn't work, try it again. Don't try prying it off, you'll just end up messing up something expensive/unavailable.

[BOYZSBLUE]

JOHN

THANKS FOR THE INFO . HAD THAT IN MIND BUT WAS A LITTLE WORRIED IT WOULD DAMAGE THE STATOR... THIS STATOR IS A AFTERMARKET THAT I HAVEN'T SEEN BEFORE,ON A PART OUT BIKE I BOUGHT IN NC LAST WEEKEND BECAUSE MY CHARGER BURNT. SMELLS REALLY BAD WHEN YOU TAKE COVER OFF. BIKE STOPPED SPARKING AND WHEN I CHANGED EVERYTHING OVER FROM PARTS BIKE THAT DID SPARK.... STILL NO SPARK. WENT TO ROTOR AND FOUND THIS, ONLY THING I HAVEN'T CHANGED YET

BOYZSBLUE

[xssiveone]

First off, turn your CAPS lock off...

I just used a bolt to remove mine. If you look at the inside of the rotor, you will see that it is threaded. Don't know the size, but I got lucky when the bolt from my puller happened to be the same size thread. Tighten, couple of wacks with a hammer, tighten again, couple more wacks and WOOSH!!! it came flying off (Literally!!) almost took my nephews head off on it's journey across the garage.

[BOYZSBLUE]

Thanks Brian , that worked. I leave caps on because I deal with extremely blind (joke) people at my work. also I don't type . good info and thanks alot .



boyzsblue ( leon )

[Geezer]

Try using the rear axel. It should have the same threads. Screw it in then tap on it with soft faced hammer. The rotor should pop right off.

Geezer

[John]

Originally posted by Geezer
Try using the rear axel. It should have the same threads. Screw it in then tap on it with soft faced hammer. The rotor should pop right off.

Geezer

Now that's clever! I'd have never thought of that.

[trbig]

I have heard that a rotor can go bad, but have never seen in here about anyone's that actually had. My rotor was on EXTREMELY well, and I used the jaw type puller, and like xssiveone, when it finally came off it was heading south for the winter I think. If you can believe it, I actually bent my rotor this way, so be careful. I couldn't see it wobble when I cranked the engine with the starter, but it was rubbing my stator on one part of it.... and killed my stator. Leave it to me to mess up a big hunk of steel.
There is a way to test your rotor without pulling it off though. Also... maybe a no-brainer, but have you checked the voltage in your battery and all your fuses?

Tod

[BOYZSBLUE]

job done

I used the bolt and hammer way and it came right off.Thanks guys
for the help. I ghanged out for to reasons , it was bad and the parts bike had a different style that had a different that was chromed. more chrome the better. Parts bike had chrome all over
it. Front forks,swing arm , alt case, timing case, mid case covers.
Not bad for 250. Not much missing off bike but tac, turn sigs.
one thing i know i,m going to need soon is a rebuid kit or replacement for front master cyl. leaking really bad, though of checking to see if new vmax cyl will work. putting the bike back
to orig. why skimp. bike looking great, hope to soon put pic online
as soon as i fig. out how, not a computer buff. least of my worries for now, getting bike up to par comes first. any suggestions on
mas. cyl ????

boyzsblue ( LEON)

[John]

Most any brand of M/C will work actually, It will need to be for a dual caliper system, and fit a 7/8 handle bar. The PEM M/C has a bore of 11/16 ". Some of the online parts suppliers sell one that looks very much like the one for an XJ11. Some guys here have bought them, and hopefully they'll chime in.