Headlight and turnsignal conversion/restoration

[Gr8Cook]

I have a 1980 XS1100SG (Thanks Top Cat!). For several reasons I have removed the fairing from my bike. I am wanting to put on a new headlight and turn signals on it but don't have a clue where to start to get parts. My preference for looks would be to have a large round headlight. My preference for function would be to have a flamethrower of a headlight.

I'm looking for two things:

1. Ideas on what to use.

2. Locations on where I can get the parts.

My budget is very tight at the moment so I think xenon options are probably out. That said I'd still like to hear about them. Apparently the alternator has a limited output. 280w is a number I've heard somewhere. I assume this will limit my options.

Cook

[Geezer]

The cool thing is that most any round headlight will work.

There are 2 pretty good salvage shops in town (Portland, OR area) but it may be cheaper to mail order a universal fit unit.

Be sure and get one that takes a standard H4 bulb and you can get almost any bulb you want for it.

If you need local help, PM me for my phone number. I'd be happy to shoot the breeze over the problem.

Geezer

[webbcraft2150]

Your right, if there is a weakpoint on the 11's, its the charging system. As mentioned before, get one that will take the H4 bulb. There are many wattage options for this style of bulb. I run a 70/100 watt H4. I rarely run the high beam in town, cept to blow a cager away or approaching a big intersection. I have a handle bar mounted LED voltmeter, below 4k the 70 watt high beam does not seem to affect charging, below 4k, the 100w plays hell with charging, especially when running brake lights and turn signals. I have seen no problem when running at highway speeds with charging and the 100w high beam on. Throws enough light to safely cruise 80+ on dark, back country roads. The lens the bulb is in plays a major role in the effectiveness of the light. Cibie and Hella make headlight conversion kits that will make the most out of a H4 bulb. These kits will fit most bike headlight assemblies. You havta watch your wattage cause the wiring for the headlight has its limits. I went to a larger wire size for the 100w high beam and installed a relay. So far, I have not let the smoke out of it.

[Geezer]

I don't think the charging system is all that weak but I'm running one of my regulator/rectifier units. Maybe one of these days I'll try adding extra load on and see how much it takes to bog down the system. TC, how's your bike doing with the running lights and my R/R unit?

I'm working on a LED tail light for the resto/custom bike. I'm not doing it to save power but because I like the look and I can. I plan to shave down a stock tail light lens to about 1" or less deep then drill holes in the back for the LEDs to mount it. I have 70 red and 10 white super bright LEDs on the way and I'll put up some pictures when it's done.

This isn't going to be a production item, it's a labor of love. I suspect after it's done, I won't ever want to make another one...

Geezer

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Tony/Geezer,

The Reg/Rect is working just fine, thankyou very much! . I took a trip to Richmond last weekend, ran the AUX lights for a while. I still try not to use them unless I can keep the rpms above 4K.

Gr8Cook, Mike'sXS has lots of parts we can use on our machines. Having Tony near by is a great plus for you! Ebay is also another source. Here's a few items from MikesXS site!

7" Classic Chromed Steel Headlight Assembly
7" Classic Chromed Steel Headlight Assembly with Halogen Lamp .

Part #09-0064 $66.00 USD EA.

Universal adjustable 3 Hole Custom style Headlight Brackets
Universal adjustable 3 Hole Custom style Headlight Brackets - Chrome Steel
11mm. mount holes.


Part #09-0013 $10.00 USD /Set

Turn Signal Lamp with Amber Lens
Turn Signal Lamp with Amber Lens. Fits: front or rear on 1973-84 TX/XS650’s.


Part #11-2186 $12.00 USD EA.

[Gr8Cook]

I'm really stoked with all the replies. I'm really impressed with everyone here. Of course we are all motorcycle people! I don't know why but it makes a huge difference.

Thanks Geezer, PM inbound.

Cook

[Gr8Cook]

Thanks for that chat Tony!

I'm getting ready to order parts and I've found that the recommended universal clamps are out of stock.

I'm thinking about ordering these:

Tommaselli 35mm

There is a picture at the bottom of the page here.

I like the rubber mounts. My forks are 37mm. I've calculated that this will add up to a difference in circumference of about 6.3mm.

Does anyone see this as being a problem?

Does anyone have another recommendation?

Cook

[Gr8Cook]

Headlight on

The Headlight and t-sigs are on and functioning but now the bike only likes to run in full or half "choke." It is a total dog when accelerating. This wasn't a problem before It died on me. I will be checking the manual and the archives here but if anyone wants to throw me a bone I wouldn't mind.

Cook

[John]

Sounds like an obstruction in the pilot (idle) circuit. Did the bike sit for a while? Did you tinker with/remove the carbs for any reason?

[Gr8Cook]

It sat for about 8 months. I have not touched the carbs at all. The only way I've touched the fuel system is by removing the gas tank. I drained the tank and refilled it with fresh fuel just to be sure.

An obstruction in the idle circuit would not account for its lack of guts. It won't rev much above 6 grand.

I'm thinking about pulling the carbs and dunking them.

Cook

[DiverRay]

Before you go that route, try a can of "Seafoam" or "Berryman's B12 Chemtool". Dump a pint in a 1/2 tank of fuel, and let it run through until you hit reserve. Then fill with fresh gas and go. It's a LOT less work, and may fix the problem for only about $5.00.
Ray

[Gr8Cook]

I'll try that.

Cheaper, less work, no brainer.

Cook

[mro]

what ever floats your boat, (or bike)

If you have a few hours,
I'd pull the carbs and do at least a "quick" cleaning.
Then set the float height and sync em.

80 carbs (mine) seem to like the 23mm height. If you floats are floating at different heights your bike will run poorly and the sync will make a big difference too.



mro

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Gr8Cook,

I, too, am a SeaFoam devotee!! But, was wondering what if anything have you done to the intake system? Have you put on any Individual filters? Have you checked the air filter, and the SNORKEL for obstructions?

Also, Try running it in PRIME and see if it will rev up to redline? Does sound like a fuel flow problem, could be the Octopus?

Have you verified that the vacuum slides will slide up and down easily without hanging up?
T.C.

[Gr8Cook]

I had done nothing to the intake system. It sat for a few months, before which it had been running pretty well.

Running in prime does not seem to make any difference.

I have squirted Berryman's into every hole in the carb mouth opening without anydifference.

I found something interesting when I perfomed a "Poor Man's Carb Rebuild" (rev the engine while stuffing a clean rag over the carb mouth.) While the engine is idling it is very sensitive (i.e. wants to die) to placing the rag over either of the outside carbs and there is little to no difference when a rag is placed over either of the midle carbs.

I am about to pull the carbs of and dunk them (I have a couple dunk tanks).

Any input?

What about the intake boots? They are a bit cracked.

Will I need to buy a rebuild kit for each carb or are the gaskets somewhat reusable?

Will Colortune do for carb syncing?

Am I jumping the gun? (I've allready tried the Berryman's Chemtool in the gas)

Cook