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How I drained/refilled the Front Brake System on my 79 Special.

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  • How I drained/refilled the Front Brake System on my 79 Special.

    NOT a "Tech Tip" but how I did it might assist someone in their own efforts....(ʘ‿ʘ)

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    Begins and ENDS here at the Front MC.

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    Using a vacuum system you'll see later, I inserted a small vinyl hose down to the bottom of the MC and vacuumed up/out all the fluid. (⇀‸↼‶)⊃━☆゚.*・。゚

    (Added mOaR clean fluid and did this AGAIN...)

    Then I added clean fluid a third time. (ʘ‿ʘ)

  • #2
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    Connected the Vacuum system an Fluid Trap to the Right side bleeder screw.

    Opened the bleeder screw a full turn and immediately began squeezing/releasing the Front brake lever. ( •_•)>⌐

    This hopefully encouraged any gunk/debris inside the MC piston/seal bore to get FLUSHED OUT. ᕙ(‾̀◡‾́)ᕗ

    Added mOaR clean brake fluid when the level dropped to ZERO and repeated the "encouragement" procedure. ( •_•)>⌐

    When the clear(?) vinyl lines showed nothing but AIR coming outta the bleed screw I "pinched off" the vacuum source line and pulled the vinyl line off the right side bleed screw. (゜~゜o)

    I left the bleeder screw OPEN two full turns fOaR the next step. (⌒_⌒)

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    • #3
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      Moved over to the Left side and attached the Fluid capture line to the Left bleeder screw.

      UN-pinched the vacuum source line and opened the bleeder screw one full turn. ~( ˘▾˘~)

      This not only sucked out all the fluid in the left side lines/caliper but also drew air IN through the Right Front bleeder screw so once the fluid was gone the vacuum source continued to FORCEFULLY/RAPIDLY suck air/fluid through.

      I think of it like using compressed air to blow out any remaining gunk. ( ノ ^o^)ノ

      Caution- I NEVER would recommend using compressed air to blow out gunk in this manner while the front MC is still connected. ヾ(゚д゚)ノ゛

      When I disconnected the banjo fittings I had folded paper towels ready to catch any/all brake fluid which might drip. ~(‘.’~)

      Didn't need'em cuz the lines were empty and "blown dry". d(⌒ー⌒)

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      Altogether, THIS was how much fluid was removed. Includes the multiple fills/drains of the front MC. (O_o)

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      • #4
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        Clean brake fluid in a separate clean "pickle" jar AND an aquarium air pump bought at a thrift store. ੧( ⁰ o ⁰ )ʋ


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        New lines installed properly and all bleeder screw wrapped in Teflon Tape fOaR a good seal. (^_^)

        Aquarium pump connected to the fluid supply and supply connected to the Left side bleeder opened one full turn.

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        Right side bleeder screw open one full turn and connected to a "mini" fluid capture container you can buy at an auto parts store.

        Just plugged in the AC cord and.....(¯―¯ ٥)

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        • #5
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          I used the Videocamera sunglasses fOaR all this next part but afterwurdz? (O_o)

          Darned camera malfunctioned so's all I gots for y'all is the description... (◞‸◟)

          Fluid entered front system thru the Left side bleeder screw SLOWLY and STEADILY cause that's the only way this teency weency aquairium CAN do it. (o´_`o)

          Note- Best way to add brake fluid is the same way one pours a BEER. NOICE and SLOW. Otherwise you get FOAM and BUBBLES which just ain't good.... 且_(・-・)

          When I saw the Right side bleeder screw flowing just fluid with no air bubbles I CLOSED off the bleeder screw. This meant the right caliper was full and had no air in it. The line ABOVE the right caliper continued to fill with fluid as well as displace any air UPWARDS according to those "laws of physics/gravity". d(⌒ー⌒)

          Minutes passed as I heard the Front MC gently gurgling and spitting small amounts of air out of the tiny holes in the bottom of the reservoir. ( ◜◡‾)

          Note- Do this same process with a beefy/powerful air pump and you'll likely end up with a GEYSER of brake fluid shooting outta the front MC comparable to OLD FAITHFUL and the resulting MESS to clean up.

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          • #6
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            The tiniest bit of FOAM came out of the MC holes and the fluid rose slowly to the "UPPER" mark on the reservoir. (─‿─)

            I closed the left front bleeder screw, turned the aquarium pump off, disconnected the air line from the pump to equalize the pressure, and pulled the fluid capture line off the bleeder screw.

            Note- The clear brake fluid still looks yellow/old but that's cuz the plastic reservoir is yellow. 46 years old... (_Oo)

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            • #7
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              Similar to shown above but with new SS brakelines....

              I used the vacuum system on BOTH sides to bleed out any air in the calipers. (─‿─)

              Connect the vacuum line to the bleeder closed and the vacuum ON.

              Crack open the bleeder screw and wait til theres no air bubbles then CLOSE the bleeder screw. (─‿─)

              Ready to ride, Right? ( ‾́ ◡ ‾́ )

              Comment


              • #8
                WRONG!!! (⩺_⩹)

                The missing video was to have been one continuous "Take" with no cuts or edits. It was to demonstrate that even doing everything RIGHT including using a vacuum system to bleed the air out of the screws at the calipers did NOT result in getting all the air outta the system. (◕__◕)

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                The video would have shown that when I squeezed the lever it went to the full EOT (End Of Travel) with no resistance at all and therefore these new SS brakelines and new brake fluid were absolutely USELESS as far as being able to stop the bike. (◕︿◕)

                I could have repeatedly used the vacuum system to bleed both front bleed screws till I had no more clean brake fuid to add and the COWS came home with no improvement in the situation. (⩺_⩹)

                Comment


                • #9
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                  To get rid of the air in the front end of the MC? (_Oo)

                  I removed 10mm bolts securing the Front MC to the handle bars.
                  I removed the Front MC FROM the handle bars.
                  I inserted a plunger handle into the mount and secured it.


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                  You'd think that tipping the "nose" of the MC down this far would wurky... but it DIDN'T. (-_-)

                  Squeezing/Releasing the lever repeatedly "helped" it go from full EOT to a point halfway but it was totally still soft/mushy. (≖ ︿≖)

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                  • #10
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                    Note- At this point I confirmed that my Camera sunglasses had malfunctioned meaning I couldn't just do wut I do with both hands and capture it all. Had to do things one handed and use the other hand fOaR the phone pics. ( ◎_◎)

                    THIS is how far I had to tilt the front of the MC DOWN.

                    Three squeezes of the lever and I had a firm feel/resistance with the beginning of that resistance at about 1/2 inch of lever travel. ƪ(˘⌣˘)ʃ

                    Toilet plunger handle was removed and Front MC re-installed.

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