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Crack in housing for oil pump

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  • Crack in housing for oil pump

    Hi,

    While wrapping up work to add guts to kicker and 2nd gear dremel fix with washer move, I cracked the housing for the oil pump.

    I've search forums but only seem to come up with torque of 14 ft/lbs and loctite on the bolts during install. Or, hand tighten.

    I don't think I was anywhere near 14 ft/lbs before the housing cracked.

    It seems to me that two of the three bolts are on the same plane and one of the bolts, the closest to the rubber o-ring, sits off a bit. I've attached picture with hopes to better explain. It has red line added to show difference in where housing connects.

    I can see why I cracked this because the third "offset" ?? bolt when tightened will want to bend the housing.

    I figured I'd see all sorts of posts about this but I'm not so perhaps I'm missing something.

    The replacement oil pump was similar. Before I call the installation good I'd like to see if anyone who is familiar with what I'm saying has to say.

    I can torque two of the three but am scared to torque the third, even with beefy new o-ring, as I don't want to crack it too. Of course I'm also scared an inproperly tightened third bolt will fall out while I'm on the road.

    If the pictures don't post I'll try another method.

    http://www.chriskraft.net/oil_pump_crack_640x480.jpg
    http://www.chriskraft.net/oil_pump_b...fs_640x480.jpg

    Thanks for any input,
    Chris
    79 XS1100F
    79 XS11F

  • #2
    Take two:
    <img src="http://www.chriskraft.net/oil_pump_crack_640x480.jpg">
    <img src="http://www.chriskraft.net/oil_pump_bolt_diffs_640x480.jpg">
    79 XS11F

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    • #3
      Moderator may want to move this thread to the Technical Discussion Forum.

      First of all, the proper torque spec for the oil pump housing to the engine is 7.2 ft/lb. and NOT 14. Use some threadlock blue if you are worried about them falling out.

      Why the unit is not sitting flush is new to me, never heard of that. There are locating collars that go around 1 or 2 of the bolts, make sure they are the correct ones and are not too long. If you had the whole engine apart, maybe the collar(s) got mixed up with a longer one used elsewhere.
      2H7 (79)
      3H3

      "If it ain't broke, modify it"

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      • #4
        Totally agree with bikerphil.
        81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.

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        • #5
          Thanks guys. I'll drop the pan today or tomorrow after work and take a look. No oil in yet!

          I'm expecting to see the housing flush where the two bolts with locating collars are, and a small gap between housing and surface where o-ring is. But, it definitely sounds like I'm missing something or off somewhere since this doesn't jive with your experience. That would make sense and also explain why I haven't found lots of posts with similar experiences!-)

          I'll post pictures of it mounted either way. And thanks again for chiming in on this.
          79 XS11F

          Comment


          • #6
            URL is for pic showing gap.
            http://www.chriskraft.net/gap_when_installed.jpg

            The other two of the three bolts are flush and when tightened appear to result in solid metal to metal contact so I can't see that collars causing an issue. I know the o-ring will seal as it is supposed to - I can see it does get squished.

            Short of the long - I'm going to torque the two bolts where the housing is flush, and the other other one, the one in the pic, I'll go lighter on. I'll use the loctite on all three and call it good.

            I'm looking forward to having a solid second gear and being able to kick it over if not just for fun!

            Thanks again guys, Chris
            79 XS11F

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