750 final drive

[old_skool]

XS750 final drive for those who want better mileage, pm me for price and shipping.

[DGXSER]

I forget what year your bike was...Do you know if it is the type I or the type II?

[old_skool]

1977 xs750 D , how do I tell type?

[DGXSER]

77 is a Type I. if it is stock anyway, not swapped in from another year. The Type I went through 1978, 79 an dup they used the Type II.

Main way I know to tell is look at the coupling end where it mates to the swing arm. On the Type II there will be a phillips head screw in the mating face that holds the pinion in place even if you pull the nut off the shaft.

The Type I used spacers to adjust the pinion position to the ring gear for alignment, The Type II used a crush sleeve. At least this si what I have read in the manuals, not torn into one myself.

[old_skool]

So, if this is a type one, can it be used, and on what 1100's??

[cywelchjr]

Type I a good bit harder to get setup correctly and will for sure not be as strong as the later type II that the 850 got as well as the later 750's got. While it might last ok if not abused too much, the type II, particularly the later B version will do much better as it's a LOT more heavily built. After seeing what happened with 3Phases final drive, while I'm not worried about having a 750 FD, I wouldn't put a type I on, and I'd stay away from a type IIa as well going for the beefier type IIb with it's splined on pinion gear and support collar for the ring gear.

[DGXSER]

So, if this is a type one, can it be used, and on what 1100's??

The type I was the one that the initial tech tip was based on, they all interchange the same onto the XS1100, same basic method of adding a larger washer and sealing the oil holes.

As Cy mentioned, the type I has more concern with getting the torque/spacing correct. And yes, Scott's (3Phase) experiment did indicate the beefier the better. But I would think if you own an XS11 because you enjoy cruising and not because you want to carve corners, or pound the pavement with torque, the type I will hold up just fine for alot of years.

[old_skool]

I think he also said(remember reading the article) that he purposely beat the hell out of it to put it through the paces and said it would prob be ok in normal use even with occasional hot rodding or to some effect like that.

[3Phase]

I think he also said(remember reading the article) that he purposely beat the hell out of it to put it through the paces and said it would prob be ok in normal use even with occasional hot rodding or to some effect like that.

Pretty much, yep. I didn't do any clutch popping, burn-outs, or wheelies but I did find out that hard launches don't really work with tall gearing, a fairing and bags, they just heat up the clutch and the oil a lot. I rode it hard but I changed the gear oil regularly and kept several eyes on the final drive until it needed to be changed. It was still working when I took it off but it was well on its way to Final Drive Heaven.


In a nuts hell there are three versions of the XS750/XS850 final drive. Any one of the three will work just fine but the later Type II is 'better' so it's what I'm running now:

The older XS750 Type I and a murky transition XS750 Type II both have a weaker dished ring gear design. The murky transition drive is the one I wore out.

The later Type II from an XS850 and some late-model XS750s have a stronger ring gear without the dish. If you can find one, this is the one you want.