Will Jones has many XS11 parts for sale

[Brent]

I got an email from Will Jones. I have not seen the parts, but his XS1100 bikes were very Shiney and new looking when I last saw them. Brent in GA
Will writes;

How are the old xsives doing. Tell everyone I said hey and hope everyone is in better shape than me! As you might remember, I have an extensive collection of parts


XS11 parts. Everything from tanks, side covers, wheels, forks, triple trees, gauge clusters, seats and seat pans, carb banks, brake calipers, taillight and headlight assy., fender-frnt and rear and a wide rangHow are the old xsives doing. Tell everyone I said hey and hope everyone is in better shape than me! As you might remember, I have an extensive collection e of electrical parts, rubber bits, and even screws and bolts. I would like to start parting with a lot of this stuff to help out my financial situation. If you keep up with the list please let our fellow xsives know that if they need parts to drop me an e-mail . I have sold parts to many of the older members and never had a complaint about price or quality. I'm way less of a hassle than E-bay.

<WJone65300@aol.com>

[Mississippi]

Hi Brent, I sent Will an email asking about some parts and did not get a reply. Do you have a phone number for him? Thanks, Harold

[Brent]

Originally posted by Mississippi
Hi Brent, I sent Will an email asking about some parts and did not get a reply. Do you have a phone number for him? Thanks, Harold

Harold,

Sorry, I do not have Will's phone #. He is not often on his computer, but hopefully he will check sometime nto too long off.

\Brent

[yamahansolo]

does he have the wires for the blinker housing? the inside of mine broke so i have no left blinker the switch is still good. i tried to sauder it but i could not get it to stick .
these would be the wires coming from the handlebar not the blinker itself.
thanks

[randy]

yamahansolo;

You may not be using the correct type of solder. You need electronic solder, 60/40 rosin core. Plumbing solder or acid core solder will not work. Also, try to remove as much of the old solder as possible before re-soldering. heat the work first, then feed the solder to the work. Allow the joint to cool before moving anything, if the wire moves during cooling it will not hold. I've given classes on this. As simple as it may seem, it is a learned practice. I've seen students try to melt the solder with the iron and let it drip onto the work, and wonder why the glob of solder just bounces off. I kid you not. Finally, make sure your tip is clean. If the tip is dirty, burnt, rough or has old solder on it heat transfer can suffer. It helps to file the tip sharp before using the iron, heat it, wipe it on a wet sponge, then go to work. Cleanliness increases the heat transfer and gets rid of contaminants that can cause corrosion and shorten the life of the joint.

That concludes today's soldering class.

[yamahansolo]

thanks randy. i had to solder all 3 wires and the other two took and my right blinker works. i think there may be other issues with the one wire itself as well.??? i planned on trying again but i haven't got around to it. also the housing is a little weathered so i may just buy the new one from mikes xs for 46.00 bucks???
just not sure though.
i have alot of home projects so i have not had alot of time to solder. i just finished laying the hardwood floor in the living room. now i have to hang two huge shelves in the office and then onto the hardwood in the master bedroom. lot's o fun!!!

[John]

Just remove the socket from the T/S assembly, and either repair the wire that way, or replace the entire pigtail. Any GOOD auto parts store will have a pigtail and socket for an 1156 bulb, or you could by an inexpensive auto tail lamp that uses the 1156 bulb, and cannibalize the pigtail from that.

[yamahansolo]

no it's in the handle bar not the blinker light itself.